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What's the best Model S refresh front fascia option
- Thread starter PhilDavid
- Start date
Solar40
Member
It’s very simple for me to do an oem facelift conversion. Will safe you money over unplugged even if you purchase from ebay. My main thing is only buy a basically a like new or new bumper and or facelift hood, don’t try to save money on those.
The hood is not an issue at all. You don’t need to put the seal above the frunk. I bought a carbon fiber hood and there is nothing that will happen to the frunk without using the top piece. My car was outside during a huge storm for days in az. If you had to worry about the frunk than so much water would be coming in through the sides to get to it but it doesn’t at all. If you adjust the hood so that it is so snug that there isn’t even a small opening really (it’s not even necessary to do but with it raining just to be safe I did) that when closing it makes the hood rest on the t badge with no space. In fact the seal on the prefacelift hood would just make the facelift hood that much worse on the sides if it was an issue but it’s not at all, it’s unnecessary.
Total time installing hood 45 min to an 1 hr that includes taking the bumper of to make it even more snug and to extend the latch cause the hood will stick out further the more snug you want it to be by pulling the hood forward on the brackets. If just putting the hood on 20 minutes For me at this point the Total time installing the bumper after it’s been painted Max 6 hrs just to be safe min 2 hrs even less depending if I have certain things done to the bumper ahead of time. Certain things can be done before the customer shows up that doesn’t involve them needing their car. Depends what grill u use, if you do release latch or not etc.
It 100% depends on how much experience you have more than anything else and if you already have the wiring harness extended ahead of time and or the grill, v stripe cut etc. If you have some of those things done already and understanding the parking retainers for 2 and 5, it can be done in a few hrs or less by myself. Putting the louvers, headlights on 30 min total max for both sides so 15/min each.
With Unplugged performance one of the worst parts of their bumper is cause they use nubs as mounting points and the bumper is super thick so it’s not going to be flush every where no matter what. I did a prior design bumper where there is nothing to but a shell on the inside so you must make all your own mounts, brackets, retainers and sensor holes and would but prefer it over Unpluggeds cause it won’t have gap issues, fitment or being flush issues. The Tesla oem is so easy and fits perfectly it’s just plug n play. Unplugged performance cheap mounting points won’t be flush, they even have openings in everyone they do personally with at least one side of the louvers or head lights. Mainly cuz the bumper is really thick, heavy and it’s not cheaply made it just has no flexion.
I don’t want to make it seem too easy cause I’ve done it probably 40 times total ( not installing the louvers, sensors, headlights every time) and using 3 different bumpers. Some days may have switched the bumper multiple times in that day so my experience level is extremely high. But I can confidently say it is easy once you do it enough just like Unplugged can do theirs in an hr and half but they say 3 hrs. And you take it to a shop it takes days them days or a week to do it. Plus it has fitment issues, isn’t prepped to be painted, etc that makes it cost you $4,500 from them to do or usually more.
Using Mesh grill saves a ton of time, also understanding certain things u never would unless u did it enough times. Like the parking retainers cannot be left on the way it comes with the oem facelift for the same 2 spots that need to be extended they face the wrong way and will hit the support bar and never be able to go into the sensor holes without coming out or not being all the way in. So you must take it off cut it and put it back on. The prefacelift holes are in a different location and the parking sensor plugs are different in a facelift harness. Also most people are not put a new ankle catcher on which helps align everything especially keeps the bumper pulled down which makes certain bumpers fit or hit the beam like the prior design bumper.
If the harness has been extended already and I’m using a mesh grill which I would only use a mesh grill from now on cuz u don’t need to cut a hole either the oem bumper would have the t badge support done before by myself max and the hood can be included if I have someone to help me. Now I would definitely tell someone to drop it off in the morning and it will be finished by the end of the day and could have everything done including the hood by the end of the day even if starting from scratch by myself besides someone helping me with the hood. Running the release cable for the battery can also be solved in other ways ways to just access the terminal. Whether relocating the battery terminal by simply extending the connection cable than can be located to access thru the mesh grill if it died by attaching it above but you would have to clip the grill and maybe replace it but that’s if u didn’t want to run a emergency release latch down thru side of the wheel well. To be honest you don’t need an emergency latch I can access it right through the opening by the tbadge. I’m able to access mine and their is basically no opening so I could with anyone’s.
Those plastic facelift liner pieces you got that covers below hood protecting everything underneath would be the only way to some what prevent you from opening the hood if your battery died... maybe I need to buy some to find out. Which I want cuz they fit correctly over the tbadge support
Solar40
Member
@tyler2323 I wish I could have you do it. Your car looks insane. Unfortunately I’m here on the east coast. Upstate Ny actually. The Tesla game on the east coast is terrible. It seems like rich is the only person on the east coast. I know that’s not the case but it seems like it. Hopefully someone out this way knows what they’re doing.
MichaelP90DL
Active Member
The Unplugged Performance refresh bumper has holes in the wheel wells and inside each hole is a cable. Put your finger through the ring on the cable end and pull. Repeat on the other side, hood opens.
jobiggs24
Member
Same...I'm in upstate NY as well
Lol... You can get as many owners who want to do it in NY, I’ll come out and stay and do 2/day. The biggest issue would be getting the parts. But if you get them and the bumpers painted ahead of time.
But honestly I think most can do this using an oem bumper. Everything takes time to learn but once you actually start and if you can somewhat understand some of the things I’m trying to teach from my experience, cuz that bumper of all is really plug in play and just simplified like mounting the fog lights and louvers, that almost anyone can do cuz the way it’s prepared for you. Issues like UP’s Bumper with the louvers and fog lights aren’t possible to make it perfect cause for one you make all you mounting points into the nubs where the oem only has a specific spot. Watch rich rebuilds he absolutely does a hack job with the UP bumper. You can literally slide the louvers on the oem bumper and they will stay without having to hold it etc, in place. Since there is a track from the bumper that the louvers will slide onto perfectly right into where you secure it with screws and once one is aligned they all are.There are small things that can only be figured out from experience cause you would never think the retainers 2 and 5, which are facing side to side need to be up and down instead. Until you remove them and reattach them correctly you can’t put the bumper on with out it hitting and falling out. This is after the harness has been extended too, cause those are the 2 retainers that don’t have enough slack without adding a foot (6 inches really but just make it longer, it only helps) in length and soldering it. Unfortunately you cannot buy the facelift harness cuz the plugs are not the same either. The retainers are already mounted so you’re not going to think that they could be facing the wrong way when it comes with them already glued on. And it will not work the way it’s facing, it’s not possible.
I personally would suggest to anyone that does the oem facelift bumper does the facelift hood too. Just cause it would costs more to just do the UP bumper. The UP bumper looks great with a facelift hood too but if you’re looking closely at every one they do or someone else does you will see some areas that may be perfect on one side and It’s not flush. Happened to me, and every picture I see of it installed.
Here some pictures of the UP bumper not painted but with prefacelift hood and than a facelift hood and it’s night and day.
Prefacelift
Facelift
Louver not fitting flush at the bottom
UP Mounting Points
Facelift with the retainer moved to go in facing up and down not side to side
Louver resting in place not secured with screws
Retainer side to side exactly comes this way fromTesla
Mesh Grill is so easy to adjust, bend, cut, and using the tab to secure it with a few links I cut so it’s on snug
Attachments
jobiggs24
Member
The 2 screws You loosen to slidebthe latch down to minimize the gap
If using a facelift hood or you’re able to minimize the the underbite by pulling the hood towards the bumper, added bolts to each side by removing the latch to account for it being further up. The other bolt u can’t see but these are the 2 above that allow it to slide up and down and now I removed it cuz the striker on the hood(aka latch that goes into the latch) may hit as it’s going if it’s to far back
The chrome vstripe and t-badge with tbadge support. The blue colored circles are where the bumper and chrome vstripe will mount to the headlight bracket with a screw passing through both of the vstripe and bumper to secure it. Cut the back areas of cus they are not necessary to mount it and will probably hit the homelink even if you think it’s not after cutting it. Same with the battery terminal
Basically shows you why you don’t need the red areas. Blue circles align with the bumper to secure to brackets
See it with no writing. Back right mount not used. In front and to the right it’s mounted with the
Making sure the bumper is aligned with the headlights. As you tighten the bolt if it sticking out push it in so it’s where you want to be flush
Facelift ankle catcher
Where the ankle catcher goes into at the opening at the bottom of bumper
Bottom latch that connects to the car and the top connects to the hood. Loosen bottom bottom 2 bolts and slide forward. The bottom will move forward more than the top
Top latch that connects to the hood. Do the same loosen and slide toward the bumper
If using a facelift hood or you’re able to minimize the the underbite by pulling the hood towards the bumper, added bolts to each side by removing the latch to account for it being further up. The other bolt u can’t see but these are the 2 above that allow it to slide up and down and now I removed it cuz the striker on the hood(aka latch that goes into the latch) may hit as it’s going if it’s to far back
The chrome vstripe and t-badge with tbadge support. The blue colored circles are where the bumper and chrome vstripe will mount to the headlight bracket with a screw passing through both of the vstripe and bumper to secure it. Cut the back areas of cus they are not necessary to mount it and will probably hit the homelink even if you think it’s not after cutting it. Same with the battery terminal
Basically shows you why you don’t need the red areas. Blue circles align with the bumper to secure to brackets
See it with no writing. Back right mount not used. In front and to the right it’s mounted with the
Making sure the bumper is aligned with the headlights. As you tighten the bolt if it sticking out push it in so it’s where you want to be flush
Facelift ankle catcher
Where the ankle catcher goes into at the opening at the bottom of bumper
Bottom latch that connects to the car and the top connects to the hood. Loosen bottom bottom 2 bolts and slide forward. The bottom will move forward more than the top
Top latch that connects to the hood. Do the same loosen and slide toward the bumper
Solar40
Member
@jobiggs24 trying to finish collecting my parts in the next few weeks. Need to get my grill and undertray but who else here in upstate ny.
Rayminster
Member
Collecting parts ain’t easy! Every bumper and hood on eBay is banged up. And the list of other parts like T Emblem, under tray etc. Make it a lot of effort.
Videofrank
Member
I think some parts you can get for a good price on Ebay but the majority have the Tesla markup.
The two most expensive parts, no matter where you get them, are the under tray and the bumper itself. That's if you're reusing the old louvers and just cutting the bumper to make them fit. Otherwise those are pricey too.
I ordered pretty much all my parts at the dealer. I had no issues at all doing so. The parts guy even commented that it was great to see people working on their own cars. I have all my parts ready to go for the most part. Just waiting for the mesh grill that tyler2323 suggested and a 12 volt battery extension cable that someone else suggested. Actually also waiting for the weather here to get a little bit better to do this.
I'm in North Jersey and would be willing to help anyone needing it. Not that I know what I'm doing other than following others advice that have done the conversion here on the board. But I figure two is better than one!
Solar40
Member
I did get a bumper off eBay. Seems to be in decent tho. Gotta get it painted anyway so any repairs can be made then. I guess I’ll keep my normal hood for now and keep it simple. It’ll have the underbite but I don’t think it looks that bad, but honestly I haven’t see one in person either. I’m just figuring if I really don’t like it that I can upgrade the hood later. I’m ordering my grill and undertray by next week so hopefully I can get this show on the road
Solar40
Member
@Videofrank frank keep me posted. How much was your undertray and grill if you don’t mind me asking? And did you buy from the dealer in Paramus? I’m in Poughkeepsie so I’m only about an 1hr 10min from there. If its cheaper I’ll run out there next weekend and get them.
Videofrank
Member
I did buy my parts at the Paramus dealer. I bought them a couple months ago before all this coronavirus craziness. I was just stock piling all my parts so when the weather broke and I had time, I would do it. Unfortuantly I think the parts department is closed now during this. I've tried calling a couple times and no answer.
Here what I paid for the undertray:
LWR VALENCE, FR FASCIA(1056376-00-C) $285.00
The grill I bought is the one tyler2323 used. That way I don't have to cut the opening for the autopilot/radar thing.
Extreme Dimensions® 103225 - Black Diamond Cut Mesh Grille Sheet
Solar40
Member
Thanks man your a lifesaver. Hopefully all this corona mess clears up soon. I got a pre ap s85 so I don’t have the radar but probably get the universal grill @Wnix05 suggested. But that works too. I’m in jersey quit a lot. I do most of my shopping at the Westfield mall. We’ll have to get up sometime.If you need hand I’d be glad to help although I don’t know what I’m doing lol. But like you said 2 better than 1
Wnix05
Member
Looks great, guys! I never replaced my hood as it looked just fine to me. @Videofrank Did you finish? I thought about using stainless steel grille on mine too. It doesn't interfere with radar signal? Also, what was the 12v extension you used? That was one thing I wished I did. @Solar40 Ping me if you have any questions. @tyler2323 You make some great points above. I feel the same that OEM really is the way to go!
Wnix05
Member
Videofrank
Member
Hey Wnix05,
I got all the parts expect for a couple last minute things that, after talking to tyler2323 and nick70d, they suggested to maybe add. Also wanted the weather to get a little better in North Jersey. Otherwise I would have done it already with this quarantine sh*t going on. Would have been perfect.
I am adding a 12 volt extension that Nick 70d told me about on ebay.
This is the one I bought:
WINCH WIRING / Jump KIT,QUICK CONNECT, ATV,RTV,UTV 10ft - 8Ga Kit semi-permanent | eBay
I first purchased the grill you did but after talking with tyler2323 he suggested the mesh one. That way I don't have to cut it since it doesn't interfere with the radar. If it does, he owes me $30!
Also going to add a manual release for the frunk as well per tyler2323. I know its overkill but what the hell else do I have going on at this point. I need projects!
