I have a new set of tsportline wheels and I was curious how many people wax/seal their wheels? Since I haven’t mounted it it’s a good time for me to wax/seal the wheels.
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Wheel wax or sealant
- Thread starter norcalbowler94
- Start date
Since they're brand new and fresh, a clean up with a degreaser and a thorough dry, and then a ceramic coat(s) would be a great option to do.
There are many many brands out there, I used Adam's 9H on the set of wheels on my Model Y (TSportline) and the Adams Graphene 10H (a bit controversial on this one) on my BMW M3 wheels.
There are many many brands out there, I used Adam's 9H on the set of wheels on my Model Y (TSportline) and the Adams Graphene 10H (a bit controversial on this one) on my BMW M3 wheels.
You can totally do it yourself. It's a little overkill as the bottle is meant for an entire car, so maybe you can find another reputable 9H level ceramic coating with a much smaller bottle that's much more suited for a set of wheels.
It's extremely easy. Wash with a pH neutral soap with no waxes or additives, spray it with a decontamination spray and wipe down (removes any grease or residues to leave a perfectly virgin surface) and then just wipe the ceramic coating on. Each one will come with slightly different instructions for removal, but with all you will simply buff the coating off.
From there, you can and should apply another coating once the initial dry time is complete, and once again buff off and wait, and then apply another coat.
I personally like 4 coats.
Here's what you can expect to see how easy it is.
Ceramic Coating Wheels DIY - YouTube
Thanks for the video.
I am watching it right now.. It looks like I need to add a couple of sponges as well as the ceramic coating and some decontamination spray before I start.
Correct. If going with another brand of ceramic coating, Meguiars applicator pads are what you want, and a pack of Meguiars microfiber clothes for buffing. Any good quality brand will work, this is just the brand I use.
If you have the dough, here is an all in one kit. Once again though, this bottle is meant to cover an entire car. If you don't mind the $100 it's got everything you need. The applicator pads, microfiber towels, decontamination spray, ceramic coating, and ceramic booster (for use in between washes).
Adams Graphene Ceramic Coating Kit
In my experience, I still use a wheel cleaner solvent, but I dilute it 10x more than recommended as it really just isn't necessary as the ceramic coating really keeps brake dust from sticking to the wheels. This is on my BMW M3 with aggressive street pads, so they create a bunch of dust.
Considering the Tesla really doesn't make much dust, and you're really not using the pads themselves much (mostly regen braking), you can probably just use a wheel brush with a SiO2 infused soap.
Adams SiO2 Graphene Infused Car Wash Soap
Here's a super budget alternative that probably makes a lot more sense. It may be lower quality, or it might be just as effective, but the reviews look great.
Considering how cheap it is, who cares if you end up wasting the majority of the bottle. If anything, you'll have enough to wash, decontaminate, and apply another couple coats every year.
Budget Alternative Kit
With this kit you will need to add a decontamination spray, but considering the wheels are brand new, a spray of 70% isopropyl alcohol and a good wipe down with a new clean microfiber towel would probably do the job perfectly fine and keep with this theme of saving money and keeping a low budget.
Decontamination Spray
Regardless of what you end up doing, I'd still recommend an SiO2 infused car wash soap. I know we're talking about wheels, but as an aside. If you don't end up ceramic coating your car, there are some awesome new hybrid waxes out there that can provide a lot of what a ceramic coating can provide (hydrophobic properties and a sacrificial layer) while lasting for quite a while (6 months or longer).
My recommendation is this product, as I've used it many times in the past and it's awesome:
Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax Kit
It includes the hybrid ceramic wax, the applicator pads, microfiber towels for buffing, and SiO2 detailing spray for spot cleaning in between washes.
If you decide to do this, you'll need to clay bar the car first. Guides can be found all over YouTube. It's very easy. Wash with a pH neutral car soap, clay bar with lubricant, another wash, then dry. Then you'll apply your hybrid ceramic wax.
From there, you can elect to use the Adam's SiO2 infused car wash soap, or you can just go for a regular old pH neutral car wash soap.
Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit
I know I just threw a ton of info at you, and perhaps the second of it was not needed or wanted. Just got a little carried away lol. If you have any questions at all, let me know. I've used the Meguiar's clay process and then the hybrid ceramic wax on all my cars (minus the ceramic coated cars), and friend's cars. The stuff is amazing, and in my experience, it really does hold up for a solid 6 months, maybe even longer. Has amazing hydrophobic qualities, fantastic beading when it rains and when washing cars coated in it, a foam cannon with pH neutral soap or the SiO2 soap and then pressured washed, I don't even need a mitt or towel to scrub out the dirt, it just blasts right off with the pressure washer.
Hopefully I was helpful.
Thanks for the info! It’s a lot to digest. I was looking at ceramic coating my car but I as you pointed out it will need the prep work before applying it. And I saw a video for engineering explained where if someone does ceramic coat it makes it more challenging to apply ppf later. I may ended going ppf. Undecided at this point but I know the wheels are getting the treatment.
.Appreciate you for the all the info. I’ll have more feedback once I can spend some time this afternoon looking at the links.
Yeah, the correct way is wash with a soap that will remove all waxes, clay, wash again, clay bar, ideally wash again, decontaminate, 1 or 2 step paint correction/cutting&polishing, THEN PPF in the areas you want (really don’t recommend doing the whole car, it’s just overkill… just the high impact areas), THEN ceramic coat, including over the PPF.Thanks for the info! It’s a lot to digest. I was looking at ceramic coating my car but I as you pointed out it will need the prep work before applying it. And I saw a video for engineering explained where if someone does ceramic coat it makes it more challenging to apply ppf later. I may ended going ppf. Undecided at this point but I know the wheels are getting the treatment.
Appreciate you for the all the info. I’ll have more feedback once I can spend some time this afternoon looking at the links.
I am thinking about ppf on the front of the car. I am tempted to try myself. There is a kit the bearded Tesla guy used that comes in five pieces. I have a heat gun just waiting to be used to correct my mistakes
. I saw that you have the mpp coil overs with the the 19 inch tsportlines. How’s that working out? I know one guy at work who has the unplugged coil overs on his model 3. He said it was a big improvement over the lowering springs he had. I don’t think he tracks it.
The
Thanks again for the input and links!
I ordered the budget items for the wheels although it may be less labor intensive long term using the Adam's products. I've only hand wash my Y once in year. I've been using Chemical brothers waterless carwash the rest of the time. I'll investigate the meguiars hybrid kit because I may decide to go front PPF and this is a good stop gap if I go that route.
Thanks again for the input and links!
I ordered the budget items for the wheels although it may be less labor intensive long term using the Adam's products. I've only hand wash my Y once in year. I've been using Chemical brothers waterless carwash the rest of the time. I'll investigate the meguiars hybrid kit because I may decide to go front PPF and this is a good stop gap if I go that route.
If you go with the waterless wash, the SiO2 hybrid coating is an excellent way to go at it. Coat the car, and then use the SiO2 spray for your waterless wash. It will wipe away the dirt while also adding back to your SiO2 coating, extending how long it will be good on the car.
You'll also notice how the dirt will be a lot easier to remove during your waterless car washes, and since you'll have that nice sacrificial layer, any dirt that is being rubbed on the paint will cut into the SiO2 coating instead of your paint itself.
The budget ones definitely won't be any more labor intensive than the Adam's. Still the same deal. Like I mentioned I probably wouldn't even bother spend the money on the decontamination spray. Just grab some 70% (or 71%, whatever they sell at the drug store or department store) and wipe everything down real well with it prior to ceramic coating the wheels.
They had a 20 percent off coupon for the decontamination spray, so I couldn’t resist. Labor wise I was thinking of reapplying it more frequently compared to something that lasts longer but I reckon not too much more since I am going to lay a few coats on them. I am in no rush putting the new wheels on. I had to wait almost three months before receiving them. What’s a few more days?
There really is no need. The initial coating will literally last several years. Once a year, you can wash, clay, decontaminate, wash again, and then apply another layer or two just to top it off.They had a 20 percent off coupon for the decontamination spray, so I couldn’t resist. Labor wise I was thinking of reapplying it more frequently compared to something that lasts longer but I reckon not too much more since I am going to lay a few coats on them. I am in no rush putting the new wheels on. I had to wait almost three months before receiving them. What’s a few more days?
At this point you're getting close to just ordering a polisher and some pads and compound, and claying, decontaminating, PPF'ing high impact areas, and ceramic coating the whole car lol.
I almost did it DIY. More than capable, but just didn't feel like dealing with HOA complaining at me washing my car constantly (wax strip wash, clay bar, another wash, dry, decontaminate, polish, deal with the annoying nature of working with the front end PPF, and then ceramic coat)
OH! Also forgot to mention. Super important to not get the wheels wet for at least 7-14 days after ceramic coating. Keep them away from absolutely anything during the first 24 hours, and then after that if you can just leave them off the car for the cure period (7-14 days).
Also, don't coat the outer barrel (where the tire goes). Just the inner barrel and spokes.
I almost did it DIY. More than capable, but just didn't feel like dealing with HOA complaining at me washing my car constantly (wax strip wash, clay bar, another wash, dry, decontaminate, polish, deal with the annoying nature of working with the front end PPF, and then ceramic coat)
OH! Also forgot to mention. Super important to not get the wheels wet for at least 7-14 days after ceramic coating. Keep them away from absolutely anything during the first 24 hours, and then after that if you can just leave them off the car for the cure period (7-14 days).
Also, don't coat the outer barrel (where the tire goes). Just the inner barrel and spokes.
Actually I asked my friend his opinion about me buying a porter cable and he said it’s not worth it. I don’t have an hoa to deal with but at some point I think I’ll figure out a short cut and end up not doing a good job. Better to have it done right by someone who does it for living. Or someone with talent.
Good tip on the barrel. I did not really think about that. I purchased the tsr wheels, so won’t I won’t have a lot of spokes to do.
What’s a good way to keep them clean while curing? I may have a plastic tarp but not sure where or if it’s actually clean.
Sounds like once a year I’ll need to put on the Ubers for a short time to clean up the wheels.
No need to physically cover them, you actually want them exposed to air. If you have a clean garage, that will do just fine. A spare bedroom (unoccupied in case there is any off gassing) works too. Place the wheels on a mat, cardboard, whatever.
Don’t cover them with plastic or anything like that. Let them be fully exposed.
The main thing with ceramic coating is you just don’t want to get it wet while curing, and absolutely nothing acidic like bird poop, dead bugs, etc.
Most shops that do it are totally fine with letting the coating cure for 24 hours then letting you pick the car up and drive it. They say no water (sprinklers, rain, car washes, etc) for 2 weeks, and if you get any dead bugs, poop, tree sap, immediately use an SiO2 detail spray to remove it.
Personally after spending so much money, and having a second car, I just leave the car in the garage for the first 7 days, then just drive it as normal after that as long as there’s no rain, and I do go over the paint each day to remove any poop or tree sap and remove it (which you should be doing anyways even without ceramic coating, as it will degrade the clear coat in the same way that it will ceramic coating).
I went the professional route just because I didn’t feel like putting in the labor, and the front end PPF is a bit of a challenge with those front air scoops around the fog lights.
For reference, I paid $3850 (15% holiday discount, second car with this shop and they do fantastic work. Always a Ferrari or Lamborghini or Porsche GT3 or two in there) for 2 step paint correction (holy crap what a difference, you really don’t know how bad Tesla paint is until it’s been deep cut and polished), PPF on the front end (hood, front bumper, fenders, headlights, fog lights, side mirrors), high impact area PPF (rear bumper area under the trunk, not the full rear bumper, for the dogs, and the rear rocker panels [same stuff Tesla sells]), and then 4 coats of Ceramic Pro 9H on the entirety of the car (this includes on top of the PPF to add the hydrophobic qualities to it).
It also includes a “lifetime” warranty, provided you stick to their rules. No brush automatic car washes, so hand wash only or touch less automatic car washes, and once a year you must bring the car in for a maintenance touch up.
This includes polishing out any scuffs and scratches, and applying a layer or two of the Ceramic Pro 9H coating.
Considering all this, if you really want to protect the car, have the coin, and enjoy your car acting like a non-stick pan, this is a fantastic deal for me with the free yearly touch ups.
That price doesn’t sound bad at all considering the labor necessary. I look at it when you pay a shop you are paying for their skill and knowledge. They developed the skill to put together a great product for the clientele. They deserved to be paid.
I have a clean garage but the house is old and dust is probably flying around a bit. I have the cardboard covers that came with the wheels. Can the wheels just sit on top of that after the application?
Yep, I do have the skills but honestly the amount of time it would take me, they could get the job done 3x faster simply due to having a shop set up specifically for it (all the right guns and electrical outlets in the right places, etc). Not to mention with HOA here I can't park my other car outdoors, meaning moving cars around over the course of the days it would take to get the job done (I'm not putting in a solo 12 hour day to ceramic coat the car lol). If I had a couple friends with the skillset I might take it on myself but with the free reapplications and just "here's money, please do the thing" and having them always back their work and fixing any of their mistakes (previous experience in the past, great shop), so worth it to me to just let them handle it.
As far as your wheels, yeah. Seriously, don't overthink it. Just stick the wheels somewhere clean, stick them on top of literally any surface that isn't hard and won't accidentally scratch the barrels, and keep them exposed to air. Preferably not freezing cold air, hence why I suggested a spare bedroom if you've got an unoccupied one.
Really, there's no need to overthink/overwork this process. You're just letting them cure up. People literally drive their cars out of the shop 24 hours after the ceramic coating has been applied, and usually all is well so long as you clean up any stuff that can hurt the coating before it has a chance to.
So just ceramic coat the wheels, stick them somewhere clean on a soft surface to not scratch the barrels/lips, and come back to them in 14 days.
Since you said you're not in a rush, I'd just let the full cure time go with the 14 days, since you have no idea how the tire mounters are going to handle the wheels (probably poorly) so may as well let the coating come to a complete cure before dropping them off for mounting.
I was referring more to my skills when it comes wrapping the car.
I live in sf, so it’s not too cold or hot in the garage. I’ll just lay them on the floor after applying and wiping off the coating. Two more weeks with my Ubers won’t be bad.
