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All I can say is.. not what you want to hear.
~4 months ago, my car got coated , inside and out, using "best" IGLcoating products by a professional reseller. Glass, body, leather ... you get the picture. - it was never machine-washed.
~2 month ago , my two-year old son dragged a stone across the rear door plus a little rear of that.
I got the scrape rubbed away, polished, and waxed by a "normal" bodyshop. (no fancy nano-stuff.)
The past two months, being the rainy/dirty season here in north, I see *NO* , and I mean absolutely *NO* difference in ease of washing, or how much particles stick to that rear door, compared to any other part of that side of the car.
Right now, I say the IGL Coatings is a successful snake oil vendor.
I would like to be proved wrong. (I mean, not by a "side by side" video made within 2 minutes), but I would really like to see real durability of the coating on my car...
If I saw any difference on the car, I would get it treated again. (and be a believer)
~4 months ago, my car got coated , inside and out, using "best" IGLcoating products by a professional reseller. Glass, body, leather ... you get the picture. - it was never machine-washed.
~2 month ago , my two-year old son dragged a stone across the rear door plus a little rear of that.
I got the scrape rubbed away, polished, and waxed by a "normal" bodyshop. (no fancy nano-stuff.)
The past two months, being the rainy/dirty season here in north, I see *NO* , and I mean absolutely *NO* difference in ease of washing, or how much particles stick to that rear door, compared to any other part of that side of the car.
Right now, I say the IGL Coatings is a successful snake oil vendor.
I would like to be proved wrong. (I mean, not by a "side by side" video made within 2 minutes), but I would really like to see real durability of the coating on my car...
If I saw any difference on the car, I would get it treated again. (and be a believer)
Last edited:
timvracer
Member
Well I got my car done professionally with OptiCoat Pro, inside and out, and the difference is STAGGERING. I have detailed all my other cars (clay bar, paint correction, polish, wax, wax) -- and they bead water for a few weaks, and quickly start to lose that hydrophobic personality. My OptiCoat treated Tesla is amazing, super easy to wash, and super hydrophobic (especially the glass). But it was not $60.. more like $1500, so there you go.
oh, its still very much hydrophobic, creating beautiful droplets, easy to see that on any level surface, but what counts for me, is "how long will it stay clean of small particles in dry & wet conditions" - and that is no different than the waxed rear door.
I am not sure why you mention $60 , but the treatment was about $1500 or more, - I don't think it's about the prices of the packages, as much as work (labor is expensive here), it was cured with some lamps too, so it's not "the price on the bottle" that decides what's what.
Had extra soundproofing too, so I am not sure about the individual costs.
Anyway, the car staying clean is my only goal, water droplet behavior is cute, but pointless to me
I am not sure why you mention $60 , but the treatment was about $1500 or more, - I don't think it's about the prices of the packages, as much as work (labor is expensive here), it was cured with some lamps too, so it's not "the price on the bottle" that decides what's what.
Had extra soundproofing too, so I am not sure about the individual costs.
Anyway, the car staying clean is my only goal, water droplet behavior is cute, but pointless to me
You can buy a 30 ml bottle of CQuartz from Amazon for $60, and you're on your own. What you get for the $400-$500 from a professional is the paint perfection, a lengthy and laborious process, before the CQuartz application. It is worth the money to go to the professional.
I think as long as you go in knowing what you are going to get then you should be fine (My personal take is that ceramic coating is just long lasting wax.. not some sort of crazy scratch protection for your car). Which is really not answering your question. If you are applying it yourself I think CQuartz is probably one of the easier ones, I recently tried 9H and it's been working pretty well so far. Since its only two weeks in I'm not sure how long lasting this coating is. If you have the cash then I would get it professionally done as it does tend to last longer, but your really looking to drop about $1200-1800. I'm not sure maybe in Texas coatings are cheaper but I've usually hear they are more around the 1200-1800 price range ,when they do the paint correction and other parts of the long process to put ceramic coating on. My personal take is that if your car is brand new and has minimal paint correction needed do it yourself, but if you have a lot of issues with your paint then go to a pro.
comanchepilot
Member
Keep the car waxed.
Have it detailed once or twice a year - using a good product.
NONE of the scratch preventers work. First time you're doing 75 in the rain and voila - its gone off any surface exposed to wind and rain.
Have it detailed once or twice a year - using a good product.
NONE of the scratch preventers work. First time you're doing 75 in the rain and voila - its gone off any surface exposed to wind and rain.
kev1n
Active Member
All I can say is.. not what you want to hear.
~4 months ago, my car got coated , inside and out, using "best" IGLcoating products by a professional reseller. Glass, body, leather ... you get the picture. - it was never machine-washed.
~2 month ago , my two-year old son dragged a stone across the rear door plus a little rear of that.
I got the scrape rubbed away, polished, and waxed by a "normal" bodyshop. (no fancy nano-stuff.)
The past two months, being the rainy/dirty season here in north, I see *NO* , and I mean absolutely *NO* difference in ease of washing, or how much particles stick to that rear door, compared to any other part of that side of the car.
Right now, I say the IGL Coatings is a successful snake oil vendor.
I would like to be proved wrong. (I mean, not by a "side by side" video made within 2 minutes), but I would really like to see real durability of the coating on my car...
If I saw any difference on the car, I would get it treated again. (and be a believer)
i dont think you understand what these coating provide. and youre not going to notice any difference on fresh paint(no debris) vs your coated panels, you might notice a difference 1 year or 2 down the line. these coatings do not protect your car from someone keying your car if that is what you were thinking. they just add another layer of wax(is probably the easiest way to explain it), it keeps particles from sticking to your paint and keeps the surface smooth(think of claying a 2yr old car with a lot of debris)
Tim@adonisdetail
Former Vendor
I recommend taking a few minutes to watch our video for anyone in the market for a ceramic coating.
steinermeister
Member
I’ve used opticoat and cquartz on my cars. I’ve noticed no difference at all. After a couple washes it doesn’t give off nothing different than not having it on there. I simply apply reload to my car only now and this is cheaper and works better. It’s a simple spray on rub off solution which last 6 months. It beads of the water and makes washing your car easy. It also gives off a gloss look.
@Tim@adonisdetail Thanks for the video.
So, my IGL Coatings quarts (and other IGL products) were applied by Alienautospa.no - Høykvalitets bilpleie produkter
you emphasize the importance of maintenance to make those products work. (i am expected to use a product every 6 months to maintain it.)
So there were ~2 months between the car was detailed, and my son scratched it, so it got one door rubbed down and waxed)
During that time, the car was washed using water only, and at a greater distance, and greater distance, most likely lower pressure than you use in this video:
Of course, I did never expect the nanometer thick coating to protect against a two year old.
Since then (the waxed parts), the car was washed additional 2 times.
Northern Norway is not known for extremely high temperatures, or high UV.
Assuming there is very low chance of those two washes removing the coating, should't I expect to see less dust/dirt being collected on the coated areas than the waxed ?
Yes, I do see those hydrophobic properties, but I am not impressed (at all) as long I see dirt/dust accumulate at "normal" rate , and be no different from those waxed areas.
BTW: what are the "rules" about using high water pressure, distance ? (does it matter as long it's no crazy industrial pressures? )
So, my IGL Coatings quarts (and other IGL products) were applied by Alienautospa.no - Høykvalitets bilpleie produkter
you emphasize the importance of maintenance to make those products work. (i am expected to use a product every 6 months to maintain it.)
So there were ~2 months between the car was detailed, and my son scratched it, so it got one door rubbed down and waxed)
During that time, the car was washed using water only, and at a greater distance, and greater distance, most likely lower pressure than you use in this video:
Since then (the waxed parts), the car was washed additional 2 times.
Northern Norway is not known for extremely high temperatures, or high UV.
Assuming there is very low chance of those two washes removing the coating, should't I expect to see less dust/dirt being collected on the coated areas than the waxed ?
Yes, I do see those hydrophobic properties, but I am not impressed (at all) as long I see dirt/dust accumulate at "normal" rate , and be no different from those waxed areas.
BTW: what are the "rules" about using high water pressure, distance ? (does it matter as long it's no crazy industrial pressures? )
GaryREM
Member
oh, its still very much hydrophobic, creating beautiful droplets, easy to see that on any level surface, but what counts for me, is "how long will it stay clean of small particles in dry & wet conditions" - and that is no different than the waxed rear door.
I am not sure why you mention $60 , but the treatment was about $1500 or more, - I don't think it's about the prices of the packages, as much as work (labor is expensive here), it was cured with some lamps too, so it's not "the price on the bottle" that decides what's what.
Had extra soundproofing too, so I am not sure about the individual costs.
Anyway, the car staying clean is my only goal, water droplet behavior is cute, but pointless to me
Yes, the waxed door probably will do well.
But I wasn't thrilled with regularly waxing the car (some folks enjoy waxing and find it therapeutic). My Cquartz car (recently traded in) got its regular washing but didn't need waxing, but looked great, so I was very satisfied after 3 years.
(Did a couple of applications of Reload along the way but that was effortless compared to waxing).
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