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Which model version holds its value best?
- Thread starter Michachael
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- Model S second hand
Just picked up a 2016 (11/16 build) 75D with all the bells and whistles (excluding air suspension+subzero) with AP2 and looked to be in great condition when I compared the pictures to other available vehicles from Tesla's website for 54k ticket price. The car was just handed in early january/late december after a 3-year lease (30k miles) from Tesla. I'll let you know what its worth in 4 years 
Just picked up a 2016 (11/16 build) 75D with all the bells and whistles (excluding air suspension+subzero) with AP2 and looked to be in great condition when I compared the pictures to other available vehicles from Tesla's website for 54k ticket price. The car was just handed in early january/late december after a 3-year lease (30k miles) from Tesla. I'll let you know what its worth in 4 years
cool, congrats! You bought it on the Tesla site? No free supercharging? Whats your effective 100% range now? 350km?
no free supercharging
sucks cause there's one 5 minutes from my house that always has vacancies. Yup, tesla's site with the 4/yr50k warranty. I don't know what my charge range is yet because I bought the car two days ago, taking delivery in 7-10 days when it gets shipped from upstate NY to long island. Will update!
2012MS85
Member
“ever” is a very long time to guarantee a floor price of $40k
Leasing is generally as expensive as buying, you still pay for the use of the car, the depreciation of the car, and the use of the money used to buy the car. You also pay for the services of the leasing company.
Leasing can be cheaper if the lessor has overestimated the value of the car at the end of the lease. That’s uncommon but it happens. Leasing becomse generally cheaper for a person if he has a business that can lease the car, then the costs can usually be shifted to the business. There are strings, of course. The car should be used for the conduction of the business.
For the run of the mill person without a business, the cost of a lease will be similar or greater than outright purchase and later sale. There will be terms in the lease that limit mileage, etc. Unless one buys the car from the lessor at the end of the lease term, the lease pretty makes sure that one has the car during the maximal period of depreciation then leaves you at the end without the 2 or 3 year old depreciated car.
There are all sorts of other considerations, including the creditworthiness of the lessee, so the proceeding is not meant to be all inclusive. Then the lessee can just turn in the car at the end without worry of selling or trading the car. Some people are committed to a new car every 2-3 years so leasing might make sense for them. In this case we’re talking of a new car lease versus purchase and use of a used car, so the used option will be far cheaper.
I'd argue that the best value overall is a stealth P3D. Sure it's going to depreciate, but the amount of value over years and years of ownership is going to be worth it. It's what your soul wants so why are you fighting it over something as silly in the big scheme of things as depreciation?
Sure it can be high on a brand new car, but is it really that high? When factoring in value per mile?
There is nothing else that really competes with the stealth P3D. You have a daily driver, and track mode for the track if you want to indulge in that. The Model Y isn't going to take away from the sales, and it's certainly not going to get any cheaper anytime soon.
So the only question is how to convince your soul.
From the battery perspective: The used Model S might look like a good deal, but look at all the issues people have had with the battery range issue. The whole battery gate thing where Tesla lowered the charging rates, and range to proactively prevent battery fires.
FSD: Is important to you? If it is then steer clear of an AP2 car. The reason is that Tesla themselves haven't figured out how they'll upgrade it to HW3. There are lots of differences. If it's not than an AP1 car might be your best bet because AP1 is still better for basic AP like adaptive cruise control. Since you live in Europe it might be best to skip FSD all together. That saves you lots of coin.
MCU: There is a huge issue with MCU1 killing its emmc. So you're pretty much guaranteed to have to swap this out for older cars. So you'll have to add this to the expected cost of it. I don't believe MCU2 will have this issue since they knew about the issue during the development of MCU2. But, we don't know for certain just yet.
Charging: You live in Europe so ideally you'd have a vehicle with a CCS port. All the Model 3's sold there have a CCS port (as I understand it). Plus the Model 3 Long range vehicles (like the P3D) charge quickly.
All in all I think EV's are too new to really worry that much about depreciation. There are a lot of advancements that will down the line that will impact all of them. You can't even avoid them by switching to ICE because Tesla has done a number to the used value of European sports sedans. Heck one of them might be a good buy because of how severe its been. EV's have completely upended the market.
Normally the best bet to avoid high depreciation on a car while still maintaining warranty coverage is to go the lightly used CPO route. But, that's hard with a Tesla as the demand is high. Especially on something like a Stealth P3D.
Sure it can be high on a brand new car, but is it really that high? When factoring in value per mile?
There is nothing else that really competes with the stealth P3D. You have a daily driver, and track mode for the track if you want to indulge in that. The Model Y isn't going to take away from the sales, and it's certainly not going to get any cheaper anytime soon.
So the only question is how to convince your soul.
From the battery perspective: The used Model S might look like a good deal, but look at all the issues people have had with the battery range issue. The whole battery gate thing where Tesla lowered the charging rates, and range to proactively prevent battery fires.
FSD: Is important to you? If it is then steer clear of an AP2 car. The reason is that Tesla themselves haven't figured out how they'll upgrade it to HW3. There are lots of differences. If it's not than an AP1 car might be your best bet because AP1 is still better for basic AP like adaptive cruise control. Since you live in Europe it might be best to skip FSD all together. That saves you lots of coin.
MCU: There is a huge issue with MCU1 killing its emmc. So you're pretty much guaranteed to have to swap this out for older cars. So you'll have to add this to the expected cost of it. I don't believe MCU2 will have this issue since they knew about the issue during the development of MCU2. But, we don't know for certain just yet.
Charging: You live in Europe so ideally you'd have a vehicle with a CCS port. All the Model 3's sold there have a CCS port (as I understand it). Plus the Model 3 Long range vehicles (like the P3D) charge quickly.
All in all I think EV's are too new to really worry that much about depreciation. There are a lot of advancements that will down the line that will impact all of them. You can't even avoid them by switching to ICE because Tesla has done a number to the used value of European sports sedans. Heck one of them might be a good buy because of how severe its been. EV's have completely upended the market.
Normally the best bet to avoid high depreciation on a car while still maintaining warranty coverage is to go the lightly used CPO route. But, that's hard with a Tesla as the demand is high. Especially on something like a Stealth P3D.
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Any model 3 would hold value better than other teslas.
sakimano
Active Member
Ferrari 612 Scaglietti - V12 Ferrari with 4 seats...the last one that didn't look like a shoe.
That's my bet for non depreciating cars and dimensionally and pricewise, its around Model S pricing.
Being more realistic, for Teslas? Don't buy a new performance model. They depreciate rapidly. On the other hand, once they depreciate to within 8-12k of their regular model counterpart they hold along with the regular mode. So don't buy a new Performance, buy a 2 year old P100D or something for $70,000.
That's my bet for non depreciating cars and dimensionally and pricewise, its around Model S pricing.
Being more realistic, for Teslas? Don't buy a new performance model. They depreciate rapidly. On the other hand, once they depreciate to within 8-12k of their regular model counterpart they hold along with the regular mode. So don't buy a new Performance, buy a 2 year old P100D or something for $70,000.
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