You keep justifying how great it is being on 110V and them blaming firmware and how you're scared to charge at home on a BAD setup. Sorry you can't have it both ways. Why bring it up at all if you don't need it? If you do "need it", even when it's only in a pinch, you'll probably want to be faster than 3 mph.
I'm not saying it's great. 110V charging stinks on ice even with a 20A outlet running at 4 MPH, much less a 15A outlet at 3 MPH. But for an outlet that I use single-digit times per year, typically at the minimum charge rate of 4A, just to get 10 extra miles or so overnight to reduce my range anxiety on the way to a supercharger (where I sit in my car and do work while I charge), spending thousands of dollars to get a 220V outlet that I will use at 2A just so that it won't trip a GFCI seems like a really bad use of money, particularly given that it is clearly a defect in the V2 UMCs that did not occur in the V1 UMCs.
And no, I did not say I was "scared to charge at home". I said I was scared to leave the car while on vacation, because of the possibility of random events entirely outside of my control causing it to consume an exorbitant amount of battery power. The Tesla service tech said it was waking up about every three hours or so, through the entire day and night. He even had me change my password, just in case some service somewhere was waking my car, but of course that didn't change anything.
You'd have to be constantly pulling more that 80A 220V to say you have maxed out your 100A panel.
It's not a capacity issue. I am already at the maximum number of circuits that the panel is rated for, with every slot but one filled, and only two non-tandem breakers in the entire box, and they're not anywhere near each other. So it would be a decent amount of work just to make it work even if I convinced a contractor to ignore the maximum circuits specification on the electrical panel.
But without violating either the electric code or the specifications, the only option would be a subpanel or a larger main panel, and at Bay Area labor rates, that would cost a few thousand dollars, last time I looked into it.
I didn't read every post and someone mentioned your running the fridge on the same circuit? Typically fridge should not be on GFCI (Fridge not a electricution risk and not worth the risk on a false trip losing all your food).
Same circuit, different GCFI. Each outlet has an independent GFCI (no downstream outlets) precisely for that reason. I can't put the fridge on a non-GFCI outlet (legally), because it is located in a bathroom.