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Why my Wh/mi so bad?

Hi Guys, so I recently received my model y long range. It’s a 7 seater with laminar wheel cover from Rimetrix. I’ve been mostly driving local with AC set to 68-70 with only 1 passenger. I dunno why my wh/mi so bad. Any idea? Speed was mostly within 30-45.
 

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It would be interesting to see the OP’s Trips page for lifetime Wh/mi. The left side of the Consumption Chart looks normal and averaging around 250-260 Wh/mi. The right side could be due to hills, rain, wind, or other factors.

As a reference point, when I first got my MYLR (Gemini wheels and covers) and had less than 500 miles on the car, I took a 478 mile round trip in 35-45°F weather driving 70-75 mph most of the way and averaged 317 Wh/mi. The same trip about a week later (started at slightly less than 1,000 miles on the odometer) in 60°F weather was at 285 Wh/mi. I keep the tires at the recommended 42psi cold pressure and run in Chill Mode. I’m now at 3,700 miles and the last 700 miles or so in warmer weather are at 253 Wh/mi and my lifetime is down to 278 Wh/mi.
 
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drtimhill

Active Member
Apr 25, 2019
3,509
4,538
Seattle
Hi Guys, so I recently received my model y long range. It’s a 7 seater with laminar wheel cover from Rimetrix. I’ve been mostly driving local with AC set to 68-70 with only 1 passenger. I dunno why my wh/mi so bad. Any idea? Speed was mostly within 30-45.
I dont see any green at all on that graph .. what kinda of terrain? Do you use regen braking and one-pedal driving? the number is a BIT high for this time of year, but not outrageous, a lot depends on your driving habits and use of cabin head/cooling.
 
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If you are under 3000 miles or so, don't pay any attention to Wh/mi. This is also true for the first few thousand miles after getting new tires. It gets much better after the tires wear in a bit.
I fully agree with this - not only do you break in all of the moving parts (bearings, etc...) but you also learn to drive the car better... someone else suggested you use chill mode - that's a good idea too.

Go through all of the menus and set the car the way you like. Drive it for a few weeks / several thousand miles... Keep track of your trip page (comparing since last charge wh/mi to since you got the car - don't reset trip 2 ever and it will reflect the whole life of car rate...)
 
I read in another post (I'm trying to find it) it doesn't matter how fast you accelerate as long as you maximize your regen braking.
So basically going from 0-30 in 2 seconds versus 4 seconds as long as you use your regen brakes to get to a complete stop has no effect on Wh/mi? Is that true? I find that hard to believe.
 

thesmokingman

Active Member
Jun 21, 2021
3,954
12,037
Socal
I read in another post (I'm trying to find it) it doesn't matter how fast you accelerate as long as you maximize your regen braking.
So basically going from 0-30 in 2 seconds versus 4 seconds as long as you use your regen brakes to get to a complete stop has no effect on Wh/mi? Is that true? I find that hard to believe.
Yea, it's pure fantasy.
 

drtimhill

Active Member
Apr 25, 2019
3,509
4,538
Seattle
I read in another post (I'm trying to find it) it doesn't matter how fast you accelerate as long as you maximize your regen braking.
So basically going from 0-30 in 2 seconds versus 4 seconds as long as you use your regen brakes to get to a complete stop has no effect on Wh/mi? Is that true? I find that hard to believe.
yeah it's nonsense. Sure, the amount of kinetic energy in the car once you reach a certain speed is the same, but getting there expends all sorts of extra energy with higher acceleration (heat from friction, air resistance, losses in the power delivery system etc etc). The equations are complex of course, and a very very slow acceleration isnt the most optimal either, but just slamming on the power is certainly going to eat into your Wh/mi.

Regen is more complex, since the physical motors generate a braking force that is essentially proportional (thought not linearly) to the input torque on the shaft and the electrical load placed across the motor terminals. I'm not sure how Tesla moderate the regen braking, but I would suspect it is via a fast on/off modulation of the load in the inverter, which (if so) should be pretty efficient at most braking strengths.

Basically, the most energy-efficient way to drive any vehicle is at constant medium-to-low speed, with as little changes in speed as possible. For ICE cars the optimal speed is higher, since they waste so much energy in heat, and the time to get to the destination factors in more than with EVs (contrast an EV stuck stationary in traffic compared to an ICE).
 
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I don’t push the pedal all the way down. Drive very normal on local NY road. I can’t really do much in traffic. I don’t even go over 40. I’m using the HOLD regen mode. Standard acceleration.
Based on all that you should get somewhere in the range of 250-260 Wh/mi this time of the year in NY, given the fact you said all local no highway. But like earlier posts said, it's too early to tell. Keep an eye on it and report back when you have 5K miles on the car, or by the end of the fall. If the numbers are still around the same 340 number, then it could be an issue. Your winter number will be high though.
 
OP here. Yeah I only have 500miles into my model y so far. I will keep monitoring it. Maybe it will get better after 2-3k miles.

Tried the chill acceleration mode. I dunno if I can get used to that :(.

Quick question anybody thinks my climate settings could be a contributing issue? I set it to 68. Wondering if I should tint the front widows and windshield to match with rear. You guys think cops will pull me over? New to this tinting stuff.
 
OP here. Yeah I only have 500miles into my model y so far. I will keep monitoring it. Maybe it will get better after 2-3k miles.

Tried the chill acceleration mode. I dunno if I can get used to that :(.

Quick question anybody thinks my climate settings could be a contributing issue? I set it to 68. Wondering if I should tint the front widows and windshield to match with rear. You guys think cops will pull me over? New to this tinting stuff.
Looks like you were going uphill
 

Pianewman

2021 MYLR VIN 88,XXX, Rd/Wh, 12/20 delivery
Supporting Member
Oct 28, 2020
2,659
2,386
Fort Worth
We really need to see the terrain you're driving on. Any advice here is skewed toward individual results based on region.

Chill mode? My "chill" mode is my right foot. I rarely punch it, because...because...well...I'm older, been there, done that. It's not a thrill anymore. I've grown up. (HAHA!)

29k miles, several road trips, DFW driving (actually, mostly highway). I'm at 284 Wh/mi lifetime. Not obsessing about range, no longer any range anxiety.

I guess I'm REALLY getting old.
 
Quick question anybody thinks my climate settings could be a contributing issue? I set it to 68. Wondering if I should tint the front widows and windshield to match with rear. You guys think cops will pull me over? New to this tinting stuff.

Sitting in the car (not driving) with the A/C on can do this too... because you're using energy but going *zero* miles... so you'll get a really bad watt hour per mile. Or driving really slow around a parking lot blasting A/C (or heat).
 

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