Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Wider Model S stance and improved aggressive appearance with wheel spacers

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
2022 MSLR lowered using blox links, 20mm blox (now known as bonoss) spacers squared. Removed the hubs and got the nice wheels coated black 😎. No rubbing or anything! Pix in lowest setting.
 

Attachments

  • 1C6C8056-3B50-4A39-A19C-40A85ACDD8A6.jpeg
    1C6C8056-3B50-4A39-A19C-40A85ACDD8A6.jpeg
    190.6 KB · Views: 353
  • 1ED6D78C-264A-4935-BEC0-36F1B71DF6A3.jpeg
    1ED6D78C-264A-4935-BEC0-36F1B71DF6A3.jpeg
    958 KB · Views: 251
Super annoyed. I have a 21 Plaid on stock 19s. After reading a bunch of threads I got the 20mm bonoss spacers. Went to install them today and apparently my wheel studs are longer than everybody else. When I went to mount the wheel there was a couple mm gap between the spacer and the wheel. I tested with the spacer off the car and it will sit flush. Looking at the pictures of a 20mm spacer in this thread, there is definitely more of my stud showing when everything is tightened down. Not sure if I want to grind the stud or just forget it and resell the spacers
 
Super annoyed. I have a 21 Plaid on stock 19s. After reading a bunch of threads I got the 20mm bonoss spacers. Went to install them today and apparently my wheel studs are longer than everybody else. When I went to mount the wheel there was a couple mm gap between the spacer and the wheel. I tested with the spacer off the car and it will sit flush. Looking at the pictures of a 20mm spacer in this thread, there is definitely more of my stud showing when everything is tightened down. Not sure if I want to grind the stud or just forget it and resell the spacers

Yes you have to grind the studs down to where the thread begins. You don't lose any thread so its ok to do. Take your time.
 
Yes you have to grind the studs down to where the thread begins. You don't lose any thread so its ok to do. Take your time.

Just another suggestion - grab a nut that will screw onto the stud, and screw it on before you start grinding. That way, when you finish grinding the stud, you can just back off the nut and make sure that the starting point for the threads is clean.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Paul8810
Just another suggestion - grab a nut that will screw onto the stud, and screw it on before you start grinding. That way, when you finish grinding the stud, you can just back off the nut and make sure that the starting point for the threads is clean.
yes, very very good tip and thats what I did too. The little grease on the end of the stud is to check to make sure you have ground enough. Mount the wheel, then remove. If there is grease on inside of wheel, you need to grind some more.

20220809_142635.jpg
 
For some reason there’s a snout on the rear studs of the plaid compared to the long range. I bought the same 20mm bonoss and didn’t have to shave anything. My spacers sit flush so probably because the plaid rear motor is bigger, it requires longer studs 🤷🏾‍♂️
 
For some reason there’s a snout on the rear studs of the plaid compared to the long range. I bought the same 20mm bonoss and didn’t have to shave anything. My spacers sit flush so probably because the plaid rear motor is bigger, it requires longer studs 🤷🏾‍♂️
Is this just an issue with the Plaid? Or, will I need to grind off studs on 2017 100D? Thanks