The neutral from the 10-50 will only "look like a ground" if it is in fact connected to the HPWC ground lug. Since the HPWC does not actually connect to neutral, connecting the 10-50 neutral to the HPWC ground does look like a legit 240V with ground connection to the HPWC. AS LONG AS THE NEUTRAL IS IN FACT GROUNDED AT THE PANEL. It's extremely important that you verify the 10-50 neutral is in fact grounded, and there are no 120V loads or connections on this circuit, otherwise an electrical fault could result in your Tesla becoming electrically hot, with the obvious very bad potential consequences.
More specifically: The only time the neutral should be bonded to the safety ground is at the main panel. If there are any sub-panels between the main panel and the receptacle, the neutral should NOT be bonded to ground.
Typically a 10-series receptacle was installed where BOTH 120 and 240V were needed. For example in a kitchen range or clothes dryer where the heat coils run at 240V and the timer controls, lights, and whatnot run at 120V. Since the 1996 NEC, all new construction is supposed to use 14-series receptacles for such uses - which include a properly wired safety ground.
If you are re-purposing an old 10-series receptacle and 120V is no longer needed, the easiest thing to do is replace the receptacle with a 6-series (hot/hot/safety ground). In the breaker panel, move the white (neutral) wire to the safety ground bus. Then wrap both ends of the white wire with green tape to indicate its new role.