green1
Active Member
Sorry, I misunderstood.Staying overnight is super last resort, it's a day trip.
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Sorry, I misunderstood.Staying overnight is super last resort, it's a day trip.
I know that this is a 'general' range tip, but the one time I drafted behind a transport it really reduced my Wh/Km. Something you could consider as well if the option presents itself.....I just hope you have some protective film on your front, though.
Good Luck!
The stories of an hour-to-increase are from people charging a cold-soaked car on a 120V outlet. The battery heater will use up almost the entirety of the juice off a 120V@12A outlet, again if the battery is completely cold. You can do the math to figure out the loss from there: 120V x 12A = 1.44 kW. Assuming worst case for the charger that it's on a 208V line instead of 240V, it'll put out 208V x 48A = 9.984 kW. This means the heater will take up to 15% in the absolute worst case for that charger (cold battery, lower voltage line, hand-wavey math that glosses over minor technical details )Does anyone know here approx how much is the L2 charge rate reduced at -20C? Are we talking half? On a good summer day let's say the 48A charger would add charge at a rate of 48 km/h (past experience at another 48A charger), what would I expect now? Half? I know it is slower at first because the battery needs to warm, I've read stories of it taking over an hour before the battery charge would even increase!
Emphasis on cold-soaked, if you never let it cold soak, it's not so bad (from my limited testing to date)The stories of an hour-to-increase are from people charging a cold-soaked car on a 120V outlet.
Emphasis on cold-soaked, if you never let it cold soak, it's not so bad (from my limited testing to date)
rear is 100% optional, let it ice over. many vehicles (mainly trucks) don't even have a back window. Rain doesn't happen at -23, and even snow doesn't tend to. only issue on the windows at those temps tends to be condensation from your breathing, the "blue" windshield defroster is generally enough to handle that, and barely touches range.And snow/rain that ices up your car's windows can require front and rear defrosters running at 100% which also kills your range.
I second the strategy of drafting behind a truck. Not too close mind you, but even at a safe distance it will cut the wind drag substantially
And snow/rain that ices up your car's windows can require front and rear defrosters running at 100% which also kills your range.
The current forecast is saying -28, ugh.
Perhaps you're right but when the weather is like this they are both on almost constantly so it is hard to tell.Do you really think the resistive defrost on the rear kills range? I'd be surprised. I would expect the heat/AC/blower for front defrost to be a power hog, agreed.
You could take this trip as an opportunity to make an informative video about cold weather driving. Just sayin'. :smile:The current forecast is saying -28, ugh.
rear is 100% optional, let it ice over. many vehicles (mainly trucks) don't even have a back window. Rain doesn't happen at -23, and even snow doesn't tend to. only issue on the windows at those temps tends to be condensation from your breathing, the "blue" windshield defroster is generally enough to handle that, and barely touches range.
Do you really think the resistive defrost on the rear kills range? I'd be surprised. I would expect the heat/AC/blower for front defrost to be a power hog, agreed.
-23c in Alberta this morning, last 50km average 236wh/km which I still don't think is that bad.
Glad to hear you made it! How fast did you wind up driving at? At those temperatures 110km/h has a bigger impact compared to 100km/h.I estimate a total 268 km range in similar conditions. Higher if the wind is behind you. I'll go into more detail in the video.