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will tesla replace your battery if it has degraded more than 20% over 2 years

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I would think they would want to know just how the battery was treated to cause it to lose range so quickly. Something's wrong here. Tesla surely has some caveats to this warranty to keep people, for instance, from bypassing the charge equipment and hooking up high voltage to the battery. Or, "Hey, I just drove it into the lake once!" might void the warranty. Among other things. Finding trout trapped between the battery and the body might give them a clue. Or charred plastic. Very likely the car kept record of various things, so it's no secret to Tesla.

I don't know what they found, but I bet YOU know. Most Tesla batteries lose about 5% the first year, then about 1% each successive year thereafter. Nowhere NEAR 20%.

I once lived next to a teen-age boy who wasn't quite old enough to drive. He spent a goodly portion of his day driving into a 6' ditch and out, over and over and over and over, for hours. He went to Toyota and demanded a new pickup because the undercarriage was shot after a month. They didn't honor HIS warranty, either.
 
Are you asking because your car has seems to have that much degradation? First, you'll want to make sure your battery actually has degraded that much. The Battery forum has some posts about it, but the gist is that you want to let your car sleep for at least a few hours at varying states of charge. This means turning everything off like Sentry Mode, Cabin Overheat, and not even checking your app. If you do that a bunch of times while your car is at 30%, 40%, 50%, etc, you'll likely recover a good amount of range.
 
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will tesla replace your battery if it has degraded more than 20% over 2 years
I have a model y 2020
Legally, they are only obligated to act when the battery can no longer complete a charge at 70% of the original EPA full range.

Your car can still hold an 80% charge. That's way over the criterion of 70%.

They can be nice and take a look at it but they don't have to.
 
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"8 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, with minimum 70% retention of Battery capacity over the warranty period."

I believe based on their brochure information the answer to your question is yes.

The vehicle warranty is 70% capacity, which would be 30% degradation, so the answer is "no, not till you hit 30% degradation". Also, usually when someone posts something like this, they are calculating this wrong, or attempting to calculate from "how far I can drive" vs "rated range of the car".

In any case, however, the answer to will they replace the battery because of 20% degradation is "no, because the warranty is 30%"
 
Only Tesla has the tools/utilities to properly assess how much your battery has degraded. You can ask them to diagnose it, but be prepared to pay for that diagnostic if the answer comes back with anything less than 30% degradation.

If you are basing this claim solely off what your car is showing as max range on the charging screen, you might be experiencing a side-effect of repetitive charging behavior. If you frequently charge your car within the same range, the battery management system (BMS) never gets a chance to calibrate and balance the battery pack.

There are several post on the forum about this, but this site has a pretty good description and suggestions of what to do before contacting Tesla
Tesla battery management system (BMS) calibration
 
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I wonder how this can be tested?
- Do you charge up to 100% and look at the range?
Since a recent update, I cannot get more than 99%, may be this is to defeat any warranty claim?
Charge to 90% and do some simple multiplication (by 1.1111) to get your EPA miles at 100%

Losing 20% is high. How many miles do you have?

Note: It's all to do with EPA miles. Your actual mileage experience is irrelevant.
 
I wonder how this can be tested?
- Do you charge up to 100% and look at the range?
Since a recent update, I cannot get more than 99%, may be this is to defeat any warranty claim?

I would have bet money that you had seen this sticky thread with the method for calculating this directly from the information on your charging screen.



Also, just let it finish. This likely means your battery is out of balance. Plug it in, and charge it to 100% before you are ready to go somewhere. It will likely sit at 99% for some amount of time before it finishes (while it balances the pack) but it will eventually finish. Could take 10 minutes, could take 2 hours but it will finish.
 
Charge to 90% and do some simple multiplication (by 1.1111) to get your EPA miles at 100%

Losing 20% is high. How many miles do you have?

Note: It's all to do with EPA miles. Your actual mileage experience is irrelevant.
Or even simpler division /0.90. I don’t think it has anything to do with EPA mileage; my assumption is Tesla is gonna measure how much energy your battery is capable of storing and compare that to its original capacity.
 
How you test your current fully charged capacity? I suggest you may charge your car by 10% (e.g. 65% to 75%). Then you can check in the phone app and see how many kWh you have charged in last charging (Say 7.5kWh). After that you can calculate your fully charge capacity (i.e. 7.5 / 10% = 75kWh). Comparing it with the design capacity. (SR - 50kWh, LR or P - 75kWh)
 
Or even simpler division /0.90. I don’t think it has anything to do with EPA mileage; my assumption is Tesla is gonna measure how much energy your battery is capable of storing and compare that to its original capacity.
EPA mileage range is how you and I can measure battery degradation.

If and when you get down to 70% of original EPA range, you have the basis to go eye to eye with the Service Center staff with a non-arbitary measurement of battery capacity.
 
EPA mileage range is how you and I can measure battery degradation.

If and when you get down to 70% of original EPA range, you have the basis to go eye to eye with the Service Center staff with a non-arbitary measurement of battery

My vehicle has never been within 15% below EPA estimates; and I imagine many others are in the same boat. Yeah you can use the arbitrary EPA estimate as a benchmark if you like but when you go eye to eye with someone at the SC they're not gonna give two sheeps about how the vehicle compares to the EPA. They'll directly measure how much energy the battery pack can store and compare that to the OEM spec. I know how far my vehicle could go between charges new, and how many watts/m it consumed. If I see a significant degradation of mileage without a material change in watts/mile I'll reach out to customer service. The EPA estimate is trash comparing to it is of no value to me.
 
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