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Will the Long Range survive occasional trackdays?

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Hi,

I am deep down the rabbit hole about the decision between LR and P (as soooo many people here too).

It is currently 5k difference here in Europe, but I am not sure if it is worth it and if I need it even for trackdays...

The question is: Will the LR survive 2-3 trackdays a year?
I am a beginner (have plenty sim racing experience) and would like to go to a track 2-3 times a year with friends (and also alone).
I know, I have to upgrade pads and fluid on both the P and LR if I want to do this. But I plan to maybe do 30 min runs and then make a break, because it gets exhausting very fast.

Will the LR battery manage the heat (also on hot days) to do a 30 min track run. And will the stock brake with upgraded fluid and pads also survive this or do I have to get the P?

For me, the only thing that is really an upgrade to the P, is the track mode and maybeee the brakes (they do not brake better, I know, but for heat management).
The suspension would be better if I invest 3k in the LR and get a way better suspension than the stock P. Spoiler and aluminimum pedals are only a couple of bucks. The faster 0-100 is something that you really can not use if you are a beginner on the track. And if you really want more, there is the boost.
And the 20" wheels ... special topic ... I would probably instant sell them and get 18" for cheaper tires on the track and more range. It does not make any sense to go for 20" even on the track).

So it comes down to track mode, brakes and maybe value retention (?).

I am also concerned about wear and tear if I go too often to the racing track. It also does not make sense to optimize your car for racing and then drive 95% on the stresst as tires will cost a fortune.

Do you guys have any tipps and experience on how to
 
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Sorry. Something went wrong at the ende and I could not find the edit button (is there any?).

Do you guys have any tipps and experience on how to get a good combination of a Model 3 to have some occasional fun on the track (not getting pro, just fast driving) and be family compliant (not too stiff and good range)?

Do I need to turn off stability control and turn on overclock cooling for the battery?
 
If you are tracking your car, you will want "Track mode" which is only available in the P. This allows you to manage your traction control, improved battery cooling, etc...

The Long Range version does not have the possibility to turn off or reduce traction control. The traction control will cut power if wheel slip is detected. So, the car will work for track days, but could be annoying for those used to running at the limits.
 
If you are tracking your car, you will want "Track mode" which is only available in the P. This allows you to manage your traction control, improved battery cooling, etc...

The Long Range version does not have the possibility to turn off or reduce traction control. The traction control will cut power if wheel slip is detected. So, the car will work for track days, but could be annoying for those used to running at the limits.
MPP Partybox resolves the Track Mode issue. Top drivers like Dai use it instead of Track Mode on Performance models.
 
Depends on the track(s) you want to visit and your driving style/experience. The SR and LR can be used on track quite effectively even without track mode or party box if you don't push hard.
 
MPP Partybox resolves the Track Mode issue. Top drivers like Dai use it instead of Track Mode on Performance models.
I am a bit concerned about the warranty and also the possibility, that Tesla would block the box in the future (MPP also warns you about this problem).
You also have not the same functionality as with track mode where you even see the traction of your wheels and have tons of customisation possibilities. Also the selling value would be higher when buying a P instead of customisations later on.
So I am not really confident about this solution.

Depends on the track(s) you want to visit and your driving style/experience. The SR and LR can be used on track quite effectively even without track mode or party box if you don't push hard.
I have seen people toast the brakes in the first corner, even with better fluid. And will the battery cooling be anough for a trackday on a hot summer day?
I do not want to push the car to the limits as I am worried about accidents and I am not that experienced yet.
My worries are about brakes and battery cooling there. I would also need better tires.

Thanks for all your answers.
 
I am a bit concerned about the warranty and also the possibility, that Tesla would block the box in the future (MPP also warns you about this problem).
You also have not the same functionality as with track mode where you even see the traction of your wheels and have tons of customisation possibilities. Also the selling value would be higher when buying a P instead of customisations later on.
So I am not really confident about this solution.


I have seen people toast the brakes in the first corner, even with better fluid. And will the battery cooling be anough for a trackday on a hot summer day?
I do not want to push the car to the limits as I am worried about accidents and I am not that experienced yet.
My worries are about brakes and battery cooling there. I would also need better tires.

Thanks for all your answers.
The first corner of which track? Like I said, it all depends on the tracks you intend to drive on. A few weeks ago we took my LR and a friend's SR to the fastest track in the UK (Thruxton) and they not only survived, they actually did very well against several M3Ps also there that day.
The reason the brakes weren't fried in the first 2 laps was because even though that track is very fast, there are only two places where you brake heavily, so the brakes have plenty of time to cool off before they are used hard again. Even stock pads work OK at that track.

If we took the LR or SR to another track we go to often, they would not survive the first lap because it has many hard braking zones in the lap.

Leaving aside the type of circuit you're going to visit, what I usually suggest to anyone taking their Model 3 on track is they upgrade the stock pads and fluid first so they have some margin. If you're not very experienced, you're going to be on the brakes more so they won't get a chance to cool. Better pads will resist the heat build up in the rotors.
Drive smoothly and progressively and the lack of track mode won't bother you much as you're gaining experience. When your skills improve and you want to go faster that's when you'll want track mode. Same goes for battery/motor temperatures. It becomes a problem once you're pushing the car hard with lots of full throttle, not when you're starting out learning the track and getting to grips with the car.

Tyres are also a consideration and if you don't have any suspension upgrades the main thing you need are tyres with reinforced shoulders, because they will get some punishment and wear out before the rest of the tyre does. Michelin Cup2s are a good choice for that reason.

So, my opinion is that the LR would be adequate for your level of experience, but once you gain confidence and speed you'll need the features of the P.
 
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So, my opinion is that the LR would be adequate for your level of experience, but once you gain confidence and speed you'll need the features of the P.

Thank you for your help so far! Really appreciate it.
Unfortunately, I am still torn apart about this decision. What really drives me crazy is the last part of your last sentence.

I am so close to skip all that racing part and invest in a better sim racing rig and build a good street car, but I know for sure, I will always think about going on track with my car.

I am 5000 Euro apart from a really nice racing car, because of that track mode. I am so sold on that feature, it is insane, but it comes with sooo many downsides :(

I am a geek and I love the possibility to exactly see which tyre loses control right now and to exactly setup the stability assist and power distribution. AND the possibility to give the battery extra cooling. But do I really need this to have fun?

I would probably instant sell the 20" and replace them with 18" and 95% of the time, I drive on normal streets and watch my energy consumption and will not use the acceleration.
So what will really be left on the daily use ... the suspension ... is it really better than the suspension of the LR? I dont know :/ ... you wrote I would have to modify it also for my tyre wear, but tbh, I do not want to modify my car that much, because of money. It would never stop.

I know how to push a car really hard because of my sim racing experience, but I fear, that I will never be able to do that on a real track. I think 2-3 trackdays a year wont give me the ability and confidence to do this and after all, its all about fun.
 
You've answered your own question I'd say. Buy the LR and enjoy it. It'll still give you lots of fun on the 2-3 trackdays you take it to each year.
The stock P suspension is really not a big step up from the LR suspension. They both need replacing with a good set of coilovers to make the car handle well on track.
 
You’ve done a heck of a job researching all aspects of your purchase. I just bought a LR and absolutely love it. It won’t see the track.
One thing I can say about every car I’ve owned-I never wished any of them were slower or had less power. I’ll be adding AB to this LR before summer ends.
Good luck with your purchase. Let us know what you decide.
 
I had the same question and ended up with the LR (plus AB). For me, I'd just track it maybe once or twice a year just to have fun. But I think if you were "serious" about it or wanted to be more competitive about it, I'd get the P!

Mike
 
If you get the Long Range you are going to need the MPP Cooling Party Controller and Party Box. If you're worried about warranty issues, it sounds like you need a Performance.
Yes, you and I would want the party box but I've been on track with drivers using an LR and SR and they both had fun and didn't find the TC too intrusive, because they were driving at a pace which suited them.
 
Ok thanks for all your help guys! Just ordered the P ^^
Now I have to find good pads. The mechanic of my shop here told me, that I would need original brake pads and that it can be problematic to install aftermarket stuff for brakes because of our law. I hope this is not true. What would be a good choice to get for better braking?

Also talked about fluid. There is also a DOT 6 out now. What do you guys use? Normal DOT 4?
 
Ok thanks for all your help guys! Just ordered the P ^^
Now I have to find good pads. The mechanic of my shop here told me, that I would need original brake pads and that it can be problematic to install aftermarket stuff for brakes because of our law. I hope this is not true. What would be a good choice to get for better braking?

Also talked about fluid. There is also a DOT 6 out now. What do you guys use? Normal DOT 4?
Good call on the P.

There are many posts on pads that you can search, here's a recent one. M3P Comprehensive Brake Pad Option list

For fluid, Castrol SRF is good, as is Motul 600/660. I am currently using Endless RF-650 and really like it.
 
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Ok thanks for all your help guys! Just ordered the P ^^
Now I have to find good pads. The mechanic of my shop here told me, that I would need original brake pads and that it can be problematic to install aftermarket stuff for brakes because of our law. I hope this is not true. What would be a good choice to get for better braking?

Also talked about fluid. There is also a DOT 6 out now. What do you guys use? Normal DOT 4?
If you really want to stick to pads which are conforming to EU dictates, then you're not going to find any worth using on track, so it's your choice whether you bend the rules a little or put up with brakes which will quickly overheat and become useless.
 
Good call on the P.

There are many posts on pads that you can search, here's a recent one. M3P Comprehensive Brake Pad Option list

For fluid, Castrol SRF is good, as is Motul 600/660. I am currently using Endless RF-650 and really like it.
Thanks for the input

If you really want to stick to pads which are conforming to EU dictates, then you're not going to find any worth using on track, so it's your choice whether you bend the rules a little or put up with brakes which will quickly overheat and become useless.
Hmm then I would have to install them by myself I fear. Or how are you guys are doing this?
 
If you really want to stick to pads which are conforming to EU dictates, then you're not going to find any worth using on track, so it's your choice whether you bend the rules a little or put up with brakes which will quickly overheat and become useless.
NRS has pads that are a perfect fit and they can make them with track compounds if desired. For occasional track days Carbotech could be an option too. Or the UPP street and track pads. The NRS pads should conform to EU regs if using the default compound which is much better than stock already.