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Will the Model S/X have a spare tire & if not, how is that ok?

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While not the same size (195/55R16), my wife's Mini came with Dunlop SP Sport01 DSST run-flats - an ultra high performance summer tire. She got about 20k miles out of them. The biggest complaint was how loud they were versus the harshness of the ride - she was already riding in an oversized go-kart, so what could you expect. ;-) We switched to Continental ContiProContact SSRs which are all-season and not as loud - they have about 20k miles on them and are going strong. She has had a puncture flat in both sets - TPS monitor reported it and she had them repaired without issue. I would say the overall experience has been good.

The only 21" run-flats I see on TireRack are the Pirelli P Zeros as noted by @strider.
 
While not the same size (195/55R16), my wife's Mini came with Dunlop SP Sport01 DSST run-flats - an ultra high performance summer tire. She got about 20k miles out of them. The biggest complaint was how loud they were versus the harshness of the ride - she was already riding in an oversized go-kart, so what could you expect. ;-) We switched to Continental ContiProContact SSRs which are all-season and not as loud - they have about 20k miles on them and are going strong. She has had a puncture flat in both sets - TPS monitor reported it and she had them repaired without issue. I would say the overall experience has been good.

The only 21" run-flats I see on TireRack are the Pirelli P Zeros as noted by @strider.

Did you wife get rid of the tires because of the noise/harshness of the ride (as you pointed out, the mini's ride is already stiff and in rougher riding tires and I'm sure her kidneys screamed out in pain with every pothole lol) or were the tires worn out? It seems like they have a 30-40k mile life span. The bridgestone Potenza run flats have gotten really good reviews particularly for ride, sound and handling.

As an aside, Do you think that the air suspension on the model s will mitigate the rougher ride of run flats?
 
@ljbad4life

She blew through the Dunlops in 20k miles - they were just worn out.

My fingers are crossed that air suspension mitigates the harshness of the ride.

I am Sig 737 and have 21" on order...plan to replace them with run flats when the first set go.
 
Does that not seem kind of tight or Tesla? As I said before, I think it's illegal not to have a spare tire in many EU countries, I guess the same is not true in the US. Regardless, the irony of having loads of storage space, but no spare, just seems a little weird.
 
Still, I dread the day I turn up at the office with it on a flatbed because I popped another tire (2 this year from potholes), and up walks the first smartass to say 'you paid HOW much? and it doesn't even have a spare tire? Man, that is minimal!'

Plus this is a premium EV....and I get the weight-saving thing, but with a ton of batteries, a donut really is a drop in the ocean. The pano roof probably adds more weight than a spare (and certainly more than a can of foam) . Plus, round these parts, it's the norm to drive on donuts all the time, only this morning I saw a car with one on each side, and that's not unusual :-/

BTW, the volt comes with a Chevy-supplied can of Fix a Flat.
 
So in addition to the can of goo do we also need to buy a portable compressor? I can't imagine the little can of fix of flat has enough volume and PSI to fully inflate tires.

Oh anyone have any experience using plugs vs goo/slime? I was thinking of getting a plugging kit since I've somehow managed to get a flat nearly once a year :(
 
Generally if you use the goo, you've bought yourself a new tire and a new TPMS sensor. Plus a charge to clean up the wheel. A plug kit is better but at your first opportunity get the tire demounted to inspect for hidden damage. The penetrating object might have scratched the sidewall of the tire (assuming a long object). This is a common occurrence--and you don't want a sudden deflation later. No way would I ever use goo in a tire.
 
Generally if you use the goo, you've bought yourself a new tire and a new TPMS sensor. Plus a charge to clean up the wheel. A plug kit is better but at your first opportunity get the tire demounted to inspect for hidden damage. The penetrating object might have scratched the sidewall of the tire (assuming a long object). This is a common occurrence--and you don't want a sudden deflation later. No way would I ever use goo in a tire.

Agreed. I'd much rather call AAA and take the tow to the tire shop.
 
My only concern in towing is getting a proper tow from AAA and having them properly anchor the car without damaging it. I guess it won't hurt to order a plugging kit from safety seal.

I agree. I wasn't sure when you wrote anchor if you meant being towed in the traditional manner where the back wheels stay on the ground while the car is towed or not. I believe the Model S may have to towed on a flatbed like the Roadster but am not sure about that. Does anyone have the manual yet on PDF that can verify that?
 
I thought I read somewhere (maybe rod and barbara's thread on locking their keys in the S) where they were given special instructions on how to tie / anchor the model S on a flat bed and that a traditional (lifts the front 2 wheels) tow truck is not approved.
 
I thought I read somewhere (maybe rod and barbara's thread on locking their keys in the S) where they were given special instructions on how to tie / anchor the model S on a flat bed and that a traditional (lifts the front 2 wheels) tow truck is not approved.

What I see quite a bit around here is a setup where the rear wheels are placed on a kind of dolly and the front is lifted by cradling the 2 front wheels. I would imagine that would be okay. (I see a lot of cars towed out of no-parking zones like this).
 
> how to tie / anchor the model S on a flat bed [shokunin]

You could keep 4 of the yellow straps in the trunk in case towtruck does not carry them.
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I thought I read somewhere (maybe rod and barbara's thread on locking their keys in the S) where they were given special instructions on how to tie / anchor the model S on a flat bed and that a traditional (lifts the front 2 wheels) tow truck is not approved.

You did. Thread is located on the Tesla Forum. The Tesla Roadside Assistance Operator undergoes training on how to tow the car. According to R&B (owners), if you have the air susp., you must put the car in "Jack" mode which disables the auto-leveling. The car is placed in neutral, and the flatbed operator (must be a flatbed tow) must anchor the tow hooks to the rear-most lower arms of the front suspension. There are holes designed to facilitate this. The car is pulled onto the flat bed. A 2x4 piece of wood is placed between the chains and car to protect the undercarriage. The car must then be anchored in an 8-point fashion to secure the car. Most tow truck operators, particularly flat bed operators, know this procedure, but it's hardly used. Many simply use the 4-point technique using wheel tie-downs or hooks attached to the axles.

Some simply use a 2-point technique :scared:. Never let them do this on any car! I had the opportunity to ask a AAA flat bed operator this question as he was towing my wife's LR3 to the mechanic 3 days ago. He knew how to secure the car in 8-point technique, had the additional tie-down straps, and even had a long 2x4 piece of wood available. The operator can walk/talk the tow truck driver through the process of properly towing the car.

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