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That is really interesting. Thanks for sharing.I have a 2023 M3 and have wind noise from the driver side window near the B pillar when I drive above 40mph. I discoverd if I push the window button very slightly to lower the window by a centimeter or less, the wind noise is gone. It seems if the window is fully rolled up, it loses it seal to the weather strip.The other windows has no issues. I did compare the driver side window to the front passenger window by comparing the gap between the Tesla logo on the window to the top of the door frame and I found the driver's side window has a bigger gap; so it rows up a bit higher. I tried calibration to get it to row up less, but I wasn't successful on that.
actually on my car, it's the opposite. My driver side is very quiet while the passenger side has wind noise at >60m/h. when i compared the position of the windows, the driver side window rolls up about 1/4 inch higher than the passenger side. The top of the glass goes into the seal and makes a noticeable depression in the seal while the passenger side window glass rolls up just enough to touch the seal. The round corner of the driver side window glass is inside the weatherstripping and not visible while the passenger side glass' round corner is completely visible. I tried to ask SC to roll the window up more on the passenger side but they said they couldn't do it.That is really interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Since the window has a curve, I'll bet if it sets just a bit lower, it would match the car's rubber just a bit differently.
I went inside the door panel and adjusted. I also adjusted the door to shut a bit tighter.
I'm going to try what you did and compare results.
I'm not certain what stops the window at the top of the movement. I don't know if it measures power increase or what? How does it know where the top is?
If it measures power increase, I wonder if I could put a piece of rubber to lower the top most rubber seal, if that would keep the window down just a bit.
I have a 2022 Model 3. I wonder if there's any difference?
Have you tried to recalibrate the window? Press and hold the button for the entire excursion, then pull up and hold the button up for the entire up excursion.actually on my car, it's the opposite. My driver side is very quiet while the passenger side has wind noise at >60m/h. when i compared the position of the windows, the driver side window rolls up about 1/4 inch higher than the passenger side. The top of the glass goes into the seal and makes a noticeable depression in the seal while the passenger side window glass rolls up just enough to touch the seal. The round corner of the driver side window glass is inside the weatherstripping and not visible while the passenger side glass' round corner is completely visible. I tried to ask SC to roll the window up more on the passenger side but they said they couldn't do it.
That's an interesting response from SC! The re-calibrate is one way for sure, and the other is to actually physically shift the window by slightly moving the tracks by loosening the retaining nuts behind the door panel (there's a video of how do that). If you are somewhat comfortable with car mechanics, it would be a 15-minute job tops. If neither of these can fix the problem then I think there must be a more fundamental issue but I'm guessing one of these will fix it.actually on my car, it's the opposite. My driver side is very quiet while the passenger side has wind noise at >60m/h. when i compared the position of the windows, the driver side window rolls up about 1/4 inch higher than the passenger side. The top of the glass goes into the seal and makes a noticeable depression in the seal while the passenger side window glass rolls up just enough to touch the seal. The round corner of the driver side window glass is inside the weatherstripping and not visible while the passenger side glass' round corner is completely visible. I tried to ask SC to roll the window up more on the passenger side but they said they couldn't do it.
I found the video with that shows how to adjust the window glass. I will give it a try as soon as the weather gets warmer. I think the sc tech I talked to didn’t want to do it or didn’t believe it was the cause of the wind noise.That's an interesting response from SC! The re-calibrate is one way for sure, and the other is to actually physically shift the window by slightly moving the tracks by loosening the retaining nuts behind the door panel (there's a video of how do that). If you are somewhat comfortable with car mechanics, it would be a 15-minute job tops. If neither of these can fix the problem then I think there must be a more fundamental issue but I'm guessing one of these will fix it.
I did. The issue isn’t the actuator but the position of the glass. It needs to go up a bit more. Will do an adjustment as suggested by another member. Pretty sure it will fix it.Have you tried to recalibrate the window? Press and hold the button for the entire excursion, then pull up and hold the button up for the entire up excursion.
Cool, I was able to shift mine forward rather than up as it was not engaging equally the back and front seals. Good luck with it - it is really straight forward just remember to squeeze the middle clip on the side panel to have it release and The door cable will likely pop out suddenly but it is easy to re-seat when you are ready to re-assemble.I found the video with that shows how to adjust the window glass. I will give it a try as soon as the weather gets warmer. I think the sc tech I talked to didn’t want to do it or didn’t believe it was the cause of the wind noise.
That's interesting.actually on my car, it's the opposite. My driver side is very quiet while the passenger side has wind noise at >60m/h. when i compared the position of the windows, the driver side window rolls up about 1/4 inch higher than the passenger side. The top of the glass goes into the seal and makes a noticeable depression in the seal while the passenger side window glass rolls up just enough to touch the seal. The round corner of the driver side window glass is inside the weatherstripping and not visible while the passenger side glass' round corner is completely visible. I tried to ask SC to roll the window up more on the passenger side but they said they couldn't do it.
Cool! I am not very clear as to what an "applique" is but perhaps it is the sealant around the small fixed window? I found mine on the X to have also separated, but the clincher was to reinforce the sealing gasket that engages with the window with a thin rubber strip that ensures firm and consistent contact, and I also backed up the door seal (around the whole glass engagement area) with the thin rubber strip to add some more pressure. Those, along with the minor glass adjustment, appear to have done the trick and the window area is now silent!I had similar issue model 3
I did all the taping and foam on these chats no help. Took to Tesla and they actually fixed it. Here’s what they wrote:
Performed a test drive and confirmed wind noise is present. Inspected area and performed adjustments to seals/ glass. Found A-pillar applique bowed and performed a smoke test. Found leak going past glass run seal. Removed and replaced seal with applique and performed additional test drive to confirm wind noise no longer present.
The language used by the service center is a bit awkward. What is meant by "A-pillar applique"?I had similar issue model 3
I did all the taping and foam on these chats no help. Took to Tesla and they actually fixed it. Here’s what they wrote:
Performed a test drive and confirmed wind noise is present. Inspected area and performed adjustments to seals/ glass. Found A-pillar applique bowed and performed a smoke test. Found leak going past glass run seal. Removed and replaced seal with applique and performed additional test drive to confirm wind noise no longer present.
I have the exact same situation. Any luck finding a solution?I have a 2023 M3 and have wind noise from the driver side window near the B pillar when I drive above 40mph. I discoverd if I push the window button very slightly to lower the window by a centimeter or less, the wind noise is gone. It seems if the window is fully rolled up, it loses it seal to the weather strip.The other windows has no issues. I did compare the driver side window to the front passenger window by comparing the gap between the Tesla logo on the window to the top of the door frame and I found the driver's side window has a bigger gap; so it rows up a bit higher. I tried calibration to get it to row up less, but I wasn't successful on that.
deal again with the materials from home depot..I've noticed a decent amount of wind noise coming from both driver and passenger side windows on my 2022 refreshed X. I looked at the seal, is this normal and how all of them are?
This is me! I just got back from my third SC visit where they had my car over a week to correct this. They sent to to a body shop too. Still isn’t fixed to my satisfaction. So annoying. I’d love some tip if anyone has gotten this corrected or fixed themselves to improve the seal.We had this same issue. The gap was so big you could look out through it from the drivers seat. I was hearing lots of road noise. SC adjusted it and now there isn’t a massive gab but the rubber seal still isn’t tight against the window at the bottom. I still notice some road noise and cold air coming in from that corner on both doors when I’m on the highway. Is this considered the norm on this car or are there some out there with a nice tight seal? Because to my untrained eyes, it seems like the rubber seal curves away from the window at the bottom following the body. I don’t know if it’s possible to fix this with just a window adjustment. View attachment 877975
Wow, that is some gap! I took pictures of the same area on my vehicle to see if that can help you see where the fit issue is. Without seeing the outside view I am guessing the glass is not contacting the right part of the window seal and/or is being forced outward at the top as it closes. This is likely a window alignment issue fixable by shifting the window by loosening the holding bolt in the door frame. If you have some DIY skills working on it yourself is not that difficult and might get you a speedier resolution. Anyway, see if the pics help in your diagnosis and happy to see if we can help you narrow it down.This is me! I just got back from my third SC visit where they had my car over a week to correct this. They sent to to a body shop too. Still isn’t fixed to my satisfaction. So annoying. I’d love some tip if anyone has gotten this corrected or fixed themselves to improve the seal.
This is me! I just got back from my third SC visit where they had my car over a week to correct this. They sent to to a body shop too. Still isn’t fixed to my satisfaction. So annoying. I’d love some tip if anyone has gotten this corrected or fixed themselves to improve the seal.
Is that picture looking at the B pillar (looking back) on the driver's side?This is me! I just got back from my third SC visit where they had my car over a week to correct this. They sent to to a body shop too. Still isn’t fixed to my satisfaction. So annoying. I’d love some tip if anyone has gotten this corrected or fixed themselves to improve the seal.