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Wind/road noise from doors/windows -- fix it for good

PNWLeccy

Member
Jul 11, 2019
891
711
Seattle
Just recorded a video for adjusting the window tracks, will upload soon. Hopefully it turned out ok, first one I've done.

Tools needed:

Small flat head screwdriver
T27 Torx bit driver
3mm Allen wrench
8mm nut driver
10mm nut driver
Looking forward to the video! Have you had a chance to test your adjustments and do they eliminate the wind noise?
 

destructure00

Active Member
Mar 2, 2019
1,468
1,620
Scottsdale, AZ
Looking forward to the video! Have you had a chance to test your adjustments and do they eliminate the wind noise?

I did both the front and rear adjusters, 2 turns each, last weekend. I didn't notice a difference in wind noise, but wondering if it's less about the position itself and more about the difference in position between the two. In the video I'm currently uploading, I undid 1 turn on the rear adjusters, to try to make the front a little tighter than the rear, if that makes sense.

I haven't gone for a drive yet with the changes I just made.

I'm probably 30% uploaded right now. GoPro split in into two sections, so need to figure out how to combine them on YouTube, then will post. I'm a noob for YT editing.
 

destructure00

Active Member
Mar 2, 2019
1,468
1,620
Scottsdale, AZ
Just recorded a video for adjusting the window tracks, will upload soon. Hopefully it turned out ok, first one I've done.

Tools needed:

Small flat head screwdriver
T27 Torx bit driver
3mm Allen wrench
8mm nut driver
10mm nut driver

Here's the video. Hope this helps someone. I'll try to go for a drive tomorrow and see if this changed anything on mine. May still be processing for a little while.
 
Last edited:

lolder

Member
Jun 11, 2016
895
680
SW Florida
When you do these things you should measure the noise before and after with sound meters under identical conditions, otherwise it's just anecdotal information.
 
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XLR82XS

D M C
Jul 26, 2019
3,126
1,762
SWFL | Vegas
My only window noise issue comes from the passenger side door. When I press the window itself the noise becomes super loud like whistling noise and especially when going 200km/h it's very loud and annoying. This does not happen when I press on the driver's side door when driving above 100.
Any tips
Possible window glass/regulator adjustment.
 

Posti101

Member
Jan 29, 2020
68
21
Alberta
so loud at such low speed, wonder why.
I mean in comparison to the other doors which aren’t to bad, the passenger door especially is like crazy loud rustling. So I thin something wrong. Also when I close the door when I first get in it feels like the passenger door window moves. When I open and close it again it doesn’t do it.
 

Silicon Desert

Active Member
Oct 1, 2018
3,393
3,164
Sparks Nevada / GF 1
Is this still a problem with wind noise on recently manufactured cars? Or just older ones.
It is the main reason my wife did not want this model when she test drove it last year. Too much wind noise at that time.
 

Seth2020

Member
Mar 25, 2020
256
311
Seattle, WA
@olerass sorry if this is obvious, but why did you use D-type where you did and B-type where you did? What is the advantage of each for their respective applications here?

OK answering my own question after having tried this... It seems like the B-type has two "beads" (the curves of the "B"). Using it behind the "flap" does not really push the flap forward to meet the window. What t seems to do is one bead sits behind the flap, while the other sticks out and this second bead makes contact with the Window.

This solution seems to have worked for me
 

alexGS

Member
May 1, 2019
171
160
New Zealand
Here's the video. Hope this helps someone.

Really helpful video for door panel removal - thank you! Concise and clear, and you cover all bases, even showing how to recover an errant clip grommet :)

The adjustment of the window tracks is broadly similar to that found on another car I had with frameless glass, Alfa Romeo Gtv or Spider (916 type, 1996-2004). I’m surprised you didn’t have to slacken the locknut where the threaded pin enters the track. I also wonder why Tesla provided two rubber bungs under the door that don’t appear to line up with those adjustment points. Generally the idea would be to make the adjustments possible without removing trim and speaker... :)

As for my own Model 3 (August ‘19 build), the rubber seal for the window around the top of the doorframe seems unusually hard and has a strange texture. It appears to contact the glass unevenly.

-Alex
 
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destructure00

Active Member
Mar 2, 2019
1,468
1,620
Scottsdale, AZ
Really helpful video for door panel removal - thank you! Concise and clear, and you cover all bases, even showing how to recover an errant clip grommet :)

Thanks!

I haven't had a chance to test yet, nowhere to drive most days since we're WFH right now, and when I do it's with the windows down since the weather is perfect in Phoenix right now. Hoping to be able to spend more time testing and making further adjustments (if needed) this weekend.
 
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Seth2020

Member
Mar 25, 2020
256
311
Seattle, WA
Here is the work I did (as per the OP) to install B-type weather stripping. As I said before, one bead of the "B" sits behind the "flap" while the other bead sticks out and makes contact with the window as it closes. It has REALLY cut down on the wind noise above my left ear.

This is the SAME photo. The second version has lines to highlight what I added

View media item 121220
View media item 121221
 

destructure00

Active Member
Mar 2, 2019
1,468
1,620
Scottsdale, AZ
Got a chance to play around with the car again. Went for a drive and the wind noise was not fixed.

Took the door apart again and started adjusting, then doing the dollar bill window seal check. Ended up putting the front adjuster back to it's original position. I now have a total of 6 counter-clockwise turns on the rear adjuster. Stopped there since the stud started getting too loose with any more than that.

Went for another drive and the intermittent wind noise is noticeably better. It's not gone though.

Upon further inspection, there is a spot along the B pillar seal near the top where the window should have a double-seal. The inner portion of that seal seems to be making contact ok after adjusting the window, but there's a small gap on the outer portion of the seal. I believe this may be where the remaining wind noise is coming from. Checked passenger side and it's touching correctly. Seth2020's post above may solve this issue by adding another seal. Alternatively, I'm going to try to find something to stuff under the factory seal to push it out and against the window.

IMG_20200409_131906.jpg
 
Last edited:

PNWLeccy

Member
Jul 11, 2019
891
711
Seattle
Got a chance to play around with the car again. Went for a drive and the wind noise was not fixed.

Took the door apart again and started adjusting, then doing the dollar bill window seal check. Ended up putting the front adjuster back to it's original position. I now have a total of 6 counter-clockwise turns on the rear adjuster. Stopped there since the stud started getting too loose with any more than that.

Went for another drive and the intermittent wind noise is noticeably better. It's not gone though.

Upon further inspection, there is a spot along the B pillar seal near the top where the window should have a double-seal. The inner portion of that seal seems to be making contact ok after adjusting the window, but there's a small gap on the outer portion of the seal. I believe this may be where the remaining wind noise is coming from. Checked passenger side and it's touching correctly. Seth2020's post above may solve this issue by adding another seal. Alternatively, I'm going to try to find something to stuff under the factory seal to push it out and against the window.

View attachment 530863
Can you specify on your photo with an arrow where the double-seal you are referring to is? Also, do you have another photo of the passenger side for comparison to show the difference more clearly?
 

KenC

Active Member
Sep 4, 2018
3,555
3,229
Maine
Got a chance to play around with the car again. Went for a drive and the wind noise was not fixed.

Took the door apart again and started adjusting, then doing the dollar bill window seal check. Ended up putting the front adjuster back to it's original position. I now have a total of 6 counter-clockwise turns on the rear adjuster. Stopped there since the stud started getting too loose with any more than that.

Went for another drive and the intermittent wind noise is noticeably better. It's not gone though.

Upon further inspection, there is a spot along the B pillar seal near the top where the window should have a double-seal. The inner portion of that seal seems to be making contact ok after adjusting the window, but there's a small gap on the outer portion of the seal. I believe this may be where the remaining wind noise is coming from. Checked passenger side and it's touching correctly. Seth2020's post above may solve this issue by adding another seal. Alternatively, I'm going to try to find something to stuff under the factory seal to push it out and against the window.

View attachment 530863
That gap was particularly bad on my car, so, last Fall, I pulled out the rubber gasket, and just a little bit sits on top of the glass on the B-pillar. May not look as nice, but if it helps keep it quieter, then I can live with it. It seems to sit in place just fine, no support behind it.
IMG_3035.jpeg
 

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