Window won't go up after decalibration

[Gu$ G]

BL - My front driver side window will no longer roll up. It rolls down ONLY when you open the door, going down about 1 inch each time. It does NOT go back up when I close the door...

The window is about halfway open now and going lower each time I open that door. Again, the switch for that window regulator isn't doing anything. The other three switches on the door panel work normally.

I was trying to adjust the window. I used the service manual's technique for decalibration. That calls for deliberately forcing the window to auto reverse down 14 times to erase the current window calibration. After that was complete, the window rolled up to closed. When I tried to roll the window down to recalibrate, nothing happened. Now the switch basically does nothing. The only way to get the window to move is to open the door. It will auto lower an inch. When you close the door, it doesn't go back up the distance it lowered. Sooo, its getting incrementally lower.

My original problem was the window auto-reversing on me. I had to inch it up little by little. I figured it might be a bind or poorly adjusted window. But now I'm much worse off.

 

[KalJoMoS]

Did you followed the guide step-by-step? You need to be seated in car to perform the calibration, here is the guide that list both the de-calibration and calibration section. Before you now continue, I suggest to disconnect your 12V battery to set all to zero so the calibration can succeed. Do you know what to do before you disconnect 12V?

 

[howardc64]

I had a similar issue a a couple of years ago. Attempting to disassemble the motor "fixed" it haha. Still working now (perfectly) 2.5 years later. Its the driver door window so gets all the use.

$0 repair for failing window regulator

13 MS 85 60k miles. Had driver front window problem starting last couple of years. Sometimes would struggle to go up, sometimes doesn't go up at all. Seems to occur more with wet weather. Since the closed window retracts and returns each time the door open/closes, driver's window motor gets the...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Gu$ G]

Thanks for this. I swear the de-calibration procedure I saw did not have steps 1-3 or even the next steps 1-2. Maybe I misremembered the procedure, admittedly I wasn't looking at the procedure when I did it.

I also do not know what to do before disconnecting the 12V...? I'm going to have to research that as well. Seems like that is my next best step. Although I haven't driven the car, even a day later the window still won't go up or respond to the switch either direction.

Did you followed the guide step-by-step? You need to be seated in car to perform the calibration, here is the guide that list both the de-calibration and calibration section. Before you now continue, I suggest to disconnect your 12V battery to set all to zero so the calibration can succeed. Do you know what to do before you disconnect 12V?

View attachment 906658

 

[Gu$ G]

I was able to get the gateway to reset by changing the wheel configuration in the service menu, then changing it back. That got the window working again. Thank you!

I repeated the de-calibration and calibration procedure exactly as in your description. While it appears to have worked, there is no change in my problem.

The window auto reverses back down at several points along the way up. I have to manually inch it up to about 2/3 and then it will close okay. Now my plan is to go back to trying to adjust the alignment in the hopes that helps get this window going all the way up on its own.

Did you followed the guide step-by-step? You need to be seated in car to perform the calibration, here is the guide that list both the de-calibration and calibration section. Before you now continue, I suggest to disconnect your 12V battery to set all to zero so the calibration can succeed. Do you know what to do before you disconnect 12V?

View attachment 906658

 

[Gu$ G]

Has anyone had luck solving this problem beyond a recalibration or regulator replacement? I'm hoping the window is just out of adjustment...

 

[Gu$ G]

Bump. I haven't yet figured this out.

 

[Gumball]

In my wife’s model 3, this meant the regulator assembly had to be replaced.

 

[Gu$ G]

Thanks. I'll consider getting one on order...

 

[Chris TX]

Mine is doing something similar. Open the door, it drops down like normal but closing the door won't make it roll up. Each time you open the door, the window rolls down an inch or so. The window won't go up or down when the door is open, but will when it's closed. It won't auto up or down until I do the 5 second calibration up and down. Once I open and close the door, it forgets the calibration. Also, opening the door causes the handle to go in and back out again. I've replaced the door latch and that doesn't fix the problem.

 

[Gu$ G]

Mine is doing something similar. Open the door, it drops down like normal but closing the door won't make it roll up. Each time you open the door, the window rolls down an inch or so. The window won't go up or down when the door is open, but will when it's closed. It won't auto up or down until I do the 5 second calibration up and down. Once I open and close the door, it forgets the calibration. Also, opening the door causes the handle to go in and back out again. I've replaced the door latch and that doesn't fix the problem.

That is bizarre. I'm interested to hear what solves this for you.

One idea would be to take the door panel loose for some troubleshooting. What happens to the handle if you disconnect the door panel electrical, i.e. the window switches? What about if you disconnect the electrical control panel that is on the door, behind the door panel? You can try a few different things disconnected while closing the latch with a screw driver to see if you can narrow things down. I would start with trying to figure out how to get the door handle performing normally before I considered anything with the window regulator.

 

[sergo0329]

Mine is doing something similar. Open the door, it drops down like normal but closing the door won't make it roll up. Each time you open the door, the window rolls down an inch or so. The window won't go up or down when the door is open, but will when it's closed. It won't auto up or down until I do the 5 second calibration up and down. Once I open and close the door, it forgets the calibration. Also, opening the door causes the handle to go in and back out again. I've replaced the door latch and that doesn't fix the problem.

I just purchased a 2014 Model S, and it has the same exact problem, did you fix it yet? please give an update, thank you

 

[Chris TX]

I've narrowed it down to either an internal break in the wiring, or if there is a limit switch on the door, not related to the handle or latch. I have the wiring manuals and I'm going through it. If I open the door about 2-3 inches, it works fine when I close it. When the door goes past that 2-3 inches, the door kinda resets.

 

[Chris TX]

And now I've confirmed it's a wire break. This is in the wire loom between the door and the body. I'm going to check all the other wires.

Edit: All the other wires appear to be fine. This black wire went to the window regulator/motor.

 

[Rob J]

And now I've confirmed it's a wire break. This is in the wire loom between the door and the body. I'm going to check all the other wires.

Edit: All the other wires appear to be fine. This black wire went to the window regulator/motor. View attachment 987993

I had exactly the same symptoms. Took the loom apart to find the thick black wire broken, the thick white wire broken and a thinner green wire almost broken. Spliced and soldered them all and it's working perfectly again (for now). Thanks for your post, wouldn't have found the issue without you.

 

[KalJoMoS]

Do you have any guidance how to approach the loom? Does it need several panel removal or just growl under the dash? Did you need to disconnect that harness? I need to find solution as well.

 

[Rob J]

I don't know how Chris did it, I did it in situ. I tried removing both ends of the corrugated rubber tube the wiring runs through but couldn't pull either end far enough back to get to the broken wires. Instead I sliced open the rubber tube end to end with a craft knife, repaired the wires and then wrapped the pipe tight in black insulation tape. Looking at it now you can hardly tell it's been done as the tape has shaped to the corrugations in the pipe/conduit. I'm sure there are better more time consuming ways and I'm not advocating for my approach but it only took me about 30 mins all in.

 

[brainhouston]

Mine is doing something similar. Open the door, it drops down like normal but closing the door won't make it roll up. Each time you open the door, the window rolls down an inch or so. The window won't go up or down when the door is open, but will when it's closed. It won't auto up or down until I do the 5 second calibration up and down. Once I open and close the door, it forgets the calibration. Also, opening the door causes the handle to go in and back out again. I've replaced the door latch and that doesn't fix the problem.

My newly acquired 2016 S rear doors doing almost exact same thing minus the handle motion...
I'm hoping its just a calibration but good to know where problem might be. Thank u for posting n following up.
This reminds me of my notorious VW Jetta mk5 that had every single door wires crack at some point in its life lol

 

[KalJoMoS]

So here is my solution. I also had weird handle and window switch situation (on drivers door) and it ended up being two broken wires between the car and front door. The symptoms you might have are:
- door handle will retract when it should be present after closing door (it will retract within a second after door clousure) but presents right after this
- rear door is not possible to open, both inside and outside (operation is restored if the front door will present the handle)
- front door handle will stay presented after you start to drive
- rearview mirror will be halted while you open the door (it will start to move once connection is restored)
In all of these situations, if you sit in the seat you will notice that the puddle light will flicker and the lights on the windows switch is off during the opening/closing of the door. I had one situation when I thought that the car was closed but found on return that it was not. And here is the fix:
I thought that there should be some kind of connector on the inside of the car just under the dash. But no, not on my model, 2016 March. So I did release these two clips as they where attached to the harness (black colour on the photo) to give some play (the one on top was taped to the harness so after the fix I moved it about 1cm to give additional move on the wires)

The ones broken on mine was one power cable (not entirely) and one thinner cable apparently for the handles. As soon I fixed it, all returned to normal again.

To get to the wires I did moved that rubber tube inside the door, you need to remove the door panel and the speaker. Quite easy, not much trouble.

And the result

 

[PJ_Bogo]

Thank you KalJoMoS for sharing this info. Here I am, two years after your post, stuck in the same situation. Replaced window regulator - Nothing. Replaced window switch - nothing. Replaced every fuse that could possibly be related - not fixed. I saw your post, pulled back the rubber hose between door and frame - and BINGO broken wire right there in front of me. Splice the wire and everything works perfectly.

You saved me at least $600 in Tesla service to troubleshoot this problem.

Thank you!