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Winter issues, frozen windows, door locks, seals, etc.

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Not a FUD post, just an honest one. Winter has set in up here in MA and I had my first encounter with the dreaded frozen window issue today as the temp dropped into the 20s. Noticed some weird condensation walking by the car yesterday, should have twigged to it then. Even after 44.2, the window on my driver's side is about 1-2mm too high right by the side mirror to get past the chrome. I've been holding off on applying silicone lube and that was a bad decision - had to jump in the car to move it without a chance to pre-heat (Tesla electrician here to install home charging - whole nother story on that....), and ended up driving around the block like an insane person clutching my door closed because I didn't want to slam it and break the window. Got the door closed once I stopped and re-assessed the situation.

Driving this car definitely has its downsides, though I'm still overall happy. Silicone now applied across all seals, hoping no further issues this winter. Any other tips and tricks welcome.
 
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I'm familiar with this situation after having to pry open the door of my outdoor parked Volkswagen CC many times. Hopefully the cabin heat can help prevent windows from freezing and sticking.

Saturday morning I hand washed my Model 3 inside of a garage and left it parked for 2 consecutive days before driving it to work Monday morning. I rolled down the windows a few inches to get some fresh air and realized there was still enough moisture/water inside the door to smear the clean window. Kind of surprising considering the windows of most ICE cars would only smear when rolled down within a few hours of a car wash, but I don't recall the moisture ever lasting a couple days. Hopefully the occasional winter car wash doesn't result in sticking windows if left out in the cold afterwards.
 
Not a FUD post, just an honest one. Winter has set in up here in MA and I had my first encounter with the dreaded frozen window issue today as the temp dropped into the 20s. Noticed some weird condensation walking by the car yesterday, should have twigged to it then. Even after 44.2, the window on my driver's side is about 1-2mm too high right by the side mirror to get past the chrome. I've been holding off on applying silicone lube and that was a bad decision - had to jump in the car to move it without a chance to pre-heat (Tesla electrician here to install home charging - whole nother story on that....), and ended up driving around the block like an insane person clutching my door closed because I didn't want to slam it and break the window. Got the door closed once I stopped and re-assessed the situation.

Driving this car definitely has its downsides, though I'm still overall happy. Silicone now applied across all seals, hoping no further issues this winter. Any other tips and tricks welcome.

This is the best stuff I've used so far.

It doesn't leave residue on the tracks - which eventually spreads across the window ( with other silicones ).

It dries dry and prevents the molding from being able to absorb moisture.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-IN-ONE...XAn3FOM5wnFdOVJEkqefAcOMXuNYgRTwaAotfEALw_wcB
 
This is the best stuff I've used so far.

It doesn't leave residue on the tracks - which eventually spreads across the window ( with other silicones ).

It dries dry and prevents the molding from being able to absorb moisture.

After it dries, if I were to touch it with my hands or if my clothes brushed the rubber, would it pick up any of the lubricant or leave a stain on clothing?
 
Not all of us are lucky enough to drive our prized possessions all year round without the risk of salt/rust, low temps (-10 degrees) and 3ft of snow.

I will be storing my Tesla Model 3 (P3D) over the winter while I get a chance to drive my 2nd baby, Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. I thought I'd share my winter prep steps for those that are thinking about doing the same.

Please let me know what steps you recommend for long term Tesla storage (about 4-5 months)?

Steps:

- Inflate tires to 42psi
- Wash and wax car
- Place cover on car (while parked in covered garage)
- Leave charger plugged in and set to 55-60% charging rate
- Lift tires off cold cement floor (I use thick styrofoam under each tire)
- Place rodent repellant (sonic sensor, traps or Irish spring :) ) in the trunk/frunk and under the car
- clean, vacuum interior
- bi/weekly check-in for updates, unplanned issues, charging rate

Anything I've missed?

P.S. You can't convince me against winter storing, as I've done this for the past 20 year between my winter and summer vehicles. If you've never experience the damage done by crazy piles of salt, brine mixture on city street, and crazy winter drivers consider yourself lucky. (Toronto,Ontario,Canada driver)
 
I am also storing my car for winter (but for a different reason having put 10K miles in the snow last winter). I am curious about the choice to leave the charger plugged in (instead of, for example, charging to 80 percent, and then recharging once it gets to 20%), and more specifically, why you set the target level to 55 to 60%. Presumably you are trying to protect the battery and maximize it's long term health. But, I can't find anywhere that Tesla recommends doing as you suggest. Thanks.
 
I am curious about the choice to leave the charger plugged in (instead of, for example, charging to 80 percent, and then recharging once it gets to 20%), and more specifically, why you set the target level to 55 to 60%.

That's a good point. I thought it would be easier for me to set my charging to 55% while letting my car handle the demands over winter (I.e. cold temp % drops vs. consistent charge levels) plugged in constantly. But it's also possible for me to set 3rd party smart timers (I.e. start charging once a week for 8 hours) and let the charge fluctuate between 20-80% over the winter.

Anyone have any recommendations on best strategy?
 
I am also storing my car for winter (but for a different reason having put 10K miles in the snow last winter). I am curious about the choice to leave the charger plugged in (instead of, for example, charging to 80 percent, and then recharging once it gets to 20%), and more specifically, why you set the target level to 55 to 60%. Presumably you are trying to protect the battery and maximize it's long term health. But, I can't find anywhere that Tesla recommends doing as you suggest. Thanks.
The owners manual says, “Model 3 has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model 3 for several weeks. When plugged in, Model 3 wakes up when needed to automatically maintain a charge level that maximizes the lifetime of the Battery.”
 
The owners manual says, “Model 3 has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model 3 for several weeks. When plugged in, Model 3 wakes up when needed to automatically maintain a charge level that maximizes the lifetime of the Battery.”
There’s the answer! I’d leave it at 50-60% and leave at that.
 
That's a good point. I thought it would be easier for me to set my charging to 55% while letting my car handle the demands over winter (I.e. cold temp % drops vs. consistent charge levels) plugged in constantly. But it's also possible for me to set 3rd party smart timers (I.e. start charging once a week for 8 hours) and let the charge fluctuate between 20-80% over the winter.

Anyone have any recommendations on best strategy?

As stated, your first plan ( set charge to 50% and leave it plugged in) is specifically exactly what the manual says. It also specifically says there is no benefit to "running it down to charge it back up".

I dont have to winterize cars so no other advice there, but definitely leave it plugged in, and just periodically check on it physically and through the app as needed.
 
As stated, your first plan ( set charge to 50% and leave it plugged in) is specifically exactly what the manual says. It also specifically says there is no benefit to "running it down to charge it back up".

I dont have to winterize cars so no other advice there, but definitely leave it plugged in, and just periodically check on it physically and through the app as needed.

I agree set the charge to 50%, when batteries are transported/shipped for a long time, they are always set to 50% because that is best for the battery. Keep the car plugged in.
 
Not all of us are lucky enough to drive our prized possessions all year round without the risk of salt/rust, low temps (-10 degrees) and 3ft of snow.

I will be storing my Tesla Model 3 (P3D) over the winter while I get a chance to drive my 2nd baby, Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. I thought I'd share my winter prep steps for those that are thinking about doing the same.

Please let me know what steps you recommend for long term Tesla storage (about 4-5 months)?

Steps:

- Inflate tires to 42psi
- Wash and wax car
- Place cover on car (while parked in covered garage)
- Leave charger plugged in and set to 55-60% charging rate
- Lift tires off cold cement floor (I use thick styrofoam under each tire)
- Place rodent repellant (sonic sensor, traps or Irish spring :) ) in the trunk/frunk and under the car
- clean, vacuum interior
- bi/weekly check-in for updates, unplanned issues, charging rate

Anything I've missed?

P.S. You can't convince me against winter storing, as I've done this for the past 20 year between my winter and summer vehicles. If you've never experience the damage done by crazy piles of salt, brine mixture on city street, and crazy winter drivers consider yourself lucky. (Toronto,Ontario,Canada driver)

What? I think you have it backwards.

Many of us aren't lucky enough to have a spare vehicle laying around. ( you should make your spare car another Tesla ).


The Model 3 does just fine in the winter.

My model 3 made it through last winter here in Chicagoland just fine. It got down to -30+ last year and I had NO problems at all. Not one issue.

Geesh...drive it. Its not a "summer only" car.
 
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You can't convince me against winter storing, as I've done this for the past 20 year between my winter and summer vehicles. If you've never experience the damage done by crazy piles of salt, brine mixture on city street, and crazy winter drivers consider yourself lucky.

What? I think you have it backwards.

Many of us aren't lucky enough to have a spare vehicle laying around. ( you should make your spare car another Tesla ).

The Model 3 does just fine in the winter.

My model 3 made it through last winter here in Chicagoland just fine. It got down to -30+ last year and I had NO problems at all. Not one issue.

Geesh...drive it. Its not a "summer only" car.
I recommend you go back and review what the OP wrote. This thread is about storing his Model 3 for the winter.
 
Mr Jeff Dahn (Teslas lead battery researcher) was quoted recommending a daily charging limit at 70% to provide the best battery longevity, when asked by an MX owner what he could do to ensure it would last 20 years:
Jeff Dahn's recommendation on long term battery preservation
Tesla battery expert recommends daily charging limit to optimize durability - Electrek

I would add to your list:
- Disable "Allow Mobile Access" to disconnect the car from the mother ship (if you don't need remote access during storage)
- Turn on "Energy Saving" Mode (This may be automatic on your M3; my MX and MS have a specific Energy Saving slider with adjacent checkbox to un/toggle "Always Connected")
- Turn off Smart Preconditioning to prevent your repeating calendar items from preheating the battery unnecessarily
- Disable Sentry Mode (if the car is in a safe environment)
- Ensure the key Cards and your phones do not repeatedly awaken the car (eg put the key cards inside a Faraday-type container)
- Set the car storage facility (your garage?) at optimal temp for the car (eg not too cold, not too hot, definitely not freezing)

The point of those steps is to:
- reduce your phantom energy losses during the winter,
- limit the number of writes the computer is making to the MMC card (IDK if same as MS/MX?) due to mother ship requests for data, waking the car, sentry mode, firmware pushes, etc, and ideally prolong the life of your MCU/eMMC card
- extend the life of the display screen

Hope that helps!
 
I'll just add that you likely need to reapply gummi pflege or whatever lubricant you're using on a regular basis. I applied it last winter but noticed sticking this morning when the temperature dropped into the 20s overnight so will need to add some when I get home. Also contrary to other threads, the scheduled departure charging in the latest update was kind of nice this morning since it preheated for about 15 mins without me having to initiate it first and I likely wouldn't have remembered to.