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Winter Performance

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:redface: There is no manual override for the trunk?...(I don't have my Roadster yet) I didn't know this...I wonder why?...redundancy is a good thing...

There is, actually, although I've never used it. But if the fob and interior switch won't open it, then the mechanism is frozen internally and spraying de-icer into the key slot won't do anything.

Actually I just went out and tried to open the trunk with the key... it didn't work. Key turned but nothing happened. Curious.
 
The Ottawa cold got to it already, eh? :wink::tongue:


There is, actually, although I've never used it. But if the fob and interior switch won't open it, then the mechanism is frozen internally and spraying de-icer into the key slot won't do anything.

Actually I just went out and tried to open the trunk with the key... it didn't work. Key turned but nothing happened. Curious.
 
With some performance cars, you want calf-skin driving gloves...sounds like with the Roadster, we'll need a pair of Kamiks :biggrin:

(http://www.kamik.com/GenfootWeb/ser...rWebGroup=W10MENS_SUMMIT&curSeason=WINTER2010 )

Good article, it mentions that the heater keeps the cabin nice and warm. I've found the heater does indeed keep the cabin warm at 25F outside (todays temps), but my feet get cold. I changed the air flow so that is completely downward and I don't seem to get a lot of airflow in that direction. Is there a manual damper down there that I need to adjust? Has anyone else found themselves with cold feet in a Roadster 2.5?

I've never owned or rode in a car that kept my feet warm. So maybe I'm just used to it I guess!

I'm noticing a lack of floor heat for me, though not for my passenger. I remember reading a thread, probably in here somewhere, that the heating ducts might be designed to favor a car with the driver's side on the right and that this person did something to adjust it. I just may do it because at 25 deg. F it was noticeable -- I hate to think how bad it'll be when it gets to 0 degrees or less here.
 
There is, actually, although I've never used it. But if the fob and interior switch won't open it, then the mechanism is frozen internally and spraying de-icer into the key slot won't do anything.

Actually I just went out and tried to open the trunk with the key... it didn't work. Key turned but nothing happened. Curious.

Interesting. Mine didn't work one really cold morning several weeks ago. It didn't make ANY noise like it was even trying. The key worked, however.
I wonder if some well-applied waterproof grease would resolve the issue. If it happens to me again I'll try to investigate more into what's going on.
 
I am surprised they key worked. As far as I know the keyfob, key in the rear light cluster and button in the cabin all do the same thing - trigger the solenoid that opens the catches for the trunk, I dont think the key does anything mechanical - happy to be corrected.

I have not been able to open my trunk all week, no noise of a mechanism trying to work - bit of a problem as my mobile charging lead and warm winter jacket are inside. I have been advised to run warm water around the rear light cluster but thats not worked so far.

Planning to make some space in the garage today for the Tesla so it can properly thaw out.
 
I also have terrible trouble keeping my feet warm in the Roadster. I have a right-hand drive, and agree that the ducts seem to favour the other side.

I also find that at speed even with all vents closed there is a lot of airflow from outside that I assume arises either from the dampers not closing fully, or a poorly sealed bulkhead. This is due to be looked at under warranty service soon.

Re: Nikki's weekend, I was surprised that with heated seats and cabin heat and 70 mph driving in the mix her Wh/mile were as low as 311. Maybe the 2.5 is more efficient with it's heating?
 
I'm noticing a lack of floor heat for me, though not for my passenger. I remember reading a thread, probably in here somewhere, that the heating ducts might be designed to favor a car with the driver's side on the right and that this person did something to adjust it. I just may do it because at 25 deg. F it was noticeable -- I hate to think how bad it'll be when it gets to 0 degrees or less here.

Here's why:

tesla_airflow.jpg


The arrow points to the air duct. It's on the passengers side.
And just points to the drivers side. Maybe extending it will do the trick...
 
When its really cold outside try putting the heating on full (obvious) and the air on recirculate. Seems to pump out hotter air.

Here in Ottawa the winters are cold, but at least it's a wet cold. :tongue: Using recirculation usually results in a complete and nearly instantaneous fog-up of the windows. Unfortunately in these parts that button is pretty much only useful when the A/C is running.
 
The arrow points to the air duct. It's on the passengers side.
And just points to the drivers side. Maybe extending it will do the trick...

Fixed my heater duct here: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/show...a-Tesla-Roadster?p=40023&viewfull=1#post40023

I blocked the passenger side with some silver metal HVAC pipe tape (all I had to hand). It works a treat pushing air about 50/50 between passenger and driver - Set the air direction control to about 11 o'clock - toasty.
 
What's this winter thing you're talking about? =)

I grew up in the midwest and only recently moved south. I have to say that once you live someplace where it only gets down to 40 degrees F in the winter, it's tough to go back north. I'm glad you guys are able to drive the Roadster in winter conditions proving that the car can handle anything.
 
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Just had my Paint armout added to the inside door sills where all the rocks, dirt, snow, etc accumulate and scratch the paint. I definitely recommend doing the same - only cost $130.00!!

Even in summer I noticed when it rained there was sand, small rocks that splash in the door and scratch the paint.

I would add pics but you can't see the Paint Armour really.....here it is also called rock guard.....
 
Good stuff Kevin!...I'm going to get this done as soon as my Roadster arrives!

Just had my Paint armour added to the inside door sills where all the rocks, dirt, snow, etc accumulate and scratch the paint. I definitely recommend doing the same - only cost $130.00!!

Even in summer I noticed when it rained there was sand, small rocks that splash in the door and scratch the paint.

I would add pics but you can't see the Paint Armour really.....here it is also called rock guard.....
 
http://www.allcarselectric.com/blog/1052024_electric-cars-cant-handle-cold-weather-myth-bustedI found this write up about the 2.5 roadster in the blizzard hitting the UK right now. I know it's been covered before, but I don't think anyone has gone 450 miles in a roadster and wrote about it. It seems that the trunk lock gets frozen, which I have read on the boards here.
Nikki Gordon-Bloomfield intends to write another article and is looking for EV's that are used in very cold environments (apparently our -3 Deg C is not cold enough for some people). If you have a suitable car can I suggest that you contact her?