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michelin x-ice xi3 vs nokian hakkapeliitta r3. Which one would you use for winter driving rwd?

  • michelin x-ice xi3

    Votes: 32 40.5%
  • nokian hakkapeliitta r3

    Votes: 47 59.5%

  • Total voters
    79
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Anybody can recommend better company than VELOX NIRVANA for rims that I can get from tiretrack or discount tire? Rims are my concern because I never used this company before but at same time want to get something pretty cheap for winter.

I"m looking to ship directly to a shop this time but will be mounting them in the future when I get all necessary equipment I need.

I don’t know how much those wheels are, but I think direct from Tesla the Aero wheels are $225 or $235 and TPMS are $75/each. I actually really like the Aeros so I just got a second set of those, and apparently the TPMS are super convenient if they’re Tesla compatible. (Just drive a few miles and the car says “hey, do you know new wheels on?” And then relearns the sensors)
 
Anybody can recommend better company than VELOX NIRVANA for rims that I can get from tiretrack or discount tire? Rims are my concern because I never used this company before but at same time want to get something pretty cheap for winter.

My three (3) primary consideration for winter wheels are:
  1. That they are hub-centric (no centering rings, as those are PITA, wear/fall off, cause balancing problems)
  2. That they are cheap
  3. That they fit (clear the brake calipers, are the right width and offset, and have lug holes identical to OEMs - can reuse OEM lug bolts).
The only 18" wheel that met the above criteria is "18x8.5 Machined w/Black Accent MSW Type 30":
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whe...odel+3+Performance&autoYear=2019&autoModClar=

It does not hurt that it also looks OK.
I have pictures of them sitting in a stack, outside of the garage, waiting for the weather to turn, if anyone is interested.

HTH,
a

P.S.: For track wheels, you remove #2, and add low-weight and strength requirements.
 
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P.S.: For track wheels, you remove #2, and add low-weight and strength requirements.

I wouldn't say light-weight is a track-specific requirement. That's why Tesla spent so much extra money equipping even their base Model 3 will lightweight 18" wheels that have roll-forged rims for and excellent strength to weight ratio. Light wheels reduce demands on the dampers (shock absorbers) and help significantly with efficiency in typical urban traffic.

I will always pay more for high-quality wheels because wheels are basically what makes it a car! Heavy, cheap wheels suck!
 
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afadeev said:
P.S.: For track wheels, you remove #2, and add low-weight and strength requirements.

I wouldn't say light-weight is a track-specific requirement. That's why Tesla spent so much extra money equipping even their base Model 3 will lightweight 18" wheels that have roll-forged rims for and excellent strength to weight ratio.

I certainly hope that Tesla wasn't all-out optimizing its 18" wheels for weight, because if they did, they didn't do so well (actually, I know they were optimizing for aerodynamics, not weight).

I, actually, love 18" Aero wheels, unfortunately, they wont clear my TM3P rear brake calipers, and are paired with Pirelli winter tires (which I dislike). Thus, I had to go aftermarket for my 18" wheels.

BTW, "roll forging" is an industry misnomer, as such wheels are not really forged, at all. Tesla is not the only wheel supplier to misuse that term, so no harm to fault.
For what it's worth:
  • 18x8.5" Tesla aero wheels weight 21.6".
  • BMW 18x9" (wider) 513M wheels weight 19.1".
  • You can buy inexpensive "roll forged" Apex ARC8 18x9 wheels that weight 18.0".
  • Truly forged wheels 18x8.5 wheels (e.g.: BBS RF) will weight in at around 16.5".

If someone wants to learn more about forged wheels, see the following nicely illustrated article about how Forgeline does it:
Faster, Lighter, Stronger How Forgeline's Monoblock Wheels Are Built - LSX Magazine


Light wheels reduce demands on the dampers (shock absorbers) and help significantly with efficiency in typical urban traffic.

Light weight wheels definitely reduce unsprung suspension weight, and thus it is easier and faster to change their rotational momentum. Therefore, lighter wheel + tire combo (folks always forget to consider tire weights, which vary significantly) will improve acceleration and braking efficiency.

Both are very good things, but they do come at a price.
Simply lighter wheels give up some strength and are more susceptible to bending from pot hole encounters.
Forged wheels compensate for that with much greater strength, and are also much lighter, but are much more expensive.

I will always pay more for high-quality wheels because wheels are basically what makes it a car! Heavy, cheap wheels suck!

Agreed, until you throw $$ into the equation.
If $$ are not a constraint - always buy real forged wheels!

If they are, then each person needs to find their preferred spot on the {price, strength, weight, looks} compromise spectrum.

a
 
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Ouch! I always try not to go up in load range when I select winter tires. I've found the extra sidewall belts make the tires feel wooden. Especially when it's really cold out. It makes driving like having sex with two condoms on. You will be happy when you get those off in the spring.

Hehe. Yeah, they have been a bit of a cure for my typical maniac-driving style. So far I love the look, the tiny bit of extra height, and as long as I'm not trying to slide around corners, the feel is only one condom, albeit rather thick and unstudded.
 
I have R3 on my subie and they are just great in winter. I also have experience with altimax arctics and blizzak ws60 to ws80. My favorites are the altimax for balance of road noise cost and efficiency. Ws80 and r3 both better imo for serious snow and ice. For my model 3 I'm considering vikingcontact 7 or xi3. The new for usa vikingcontact are very highly rated where it's been available. Especially with the rwd, I really want to use serious winter tires not performance winter tires.
 
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They just told me they are out of stock, they are on order, but delivery unknown, waiting on factory. They do have R8s and R9s available if you don't mind running studs. As I ran studs all the time "Back when" (read 70s-80s), I bit the bullet and wen't with R9s - I hope they work out well
 
I’ve lived in the Colorado front range for 20 years and have had AWD cars the past 15 (Subaru Forester, Toyota Highlander). Usually factory tires are crappy, last 25k, and I then get the best tire for snow/ice short of getting studless winter tires. Handling in bad weather is then great and I’ve never needed more.

Yesterday’s storm caused traction woes for my M3 with 7k miles, but not my wife’s highlander with pirelli scorpion verdes, despite almost no tread.

Is the M3 AWD no good in the snow and I should get winter tires or are the factory continentals crap and just stick it out until they need replacement?

If the M3 AWD is not actually good in the snow, and I need winter tires, I was thinking it might be easiest to just get the premounted 18s from Tesla for 2k since the factory wheels and tpms are already there, then get a little better 3 season tire, but prefer to avoid this approach. Model 3 18" Aero Wheel and Winter Tire Package

While just driving in the front range now, I’d hope to take the car skiing.
 
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I drove in the same storm during the worst of it yesterday and thought my stealth performance did amazing on the factory aeros and Michelins, but I'm still planning to get a second set of wheels and dedicated snow tires. The Model 3 is excellent in the snow, but like as always tires matter more than anything. All seasons are not snows, and the below freezing temps and ice are not friendly to anything but a dedicated snow tire. The Model 3 has an incredibly low center of gravity, near perfect weight distribution, long wheelbase relative to the overall length of the car (longer wheelbase than a Toyota Land Cruiser actually), and amazing traction control, so it has the recipe for a total beast in the snow with the right tires.
 
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Remember that when you buy only tires, you're going to have mounting and balancing fees twice a year. That adds up to a set of wheels pretty quick. When you add in the convenience of being able to swap in and out of your winter wheel and tire set, it's often better just to bite the bullet and get everything at once. Buy once, cry once.
 
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Last winter my M3 LR AWD was incredible in the snow.

In summer I run the stock 19"s which have a summer composite and really should not be run in winter. I switch to 235/45R-18 Michelin X-Ice Xi3 XLs which I picked up at TireRack. I change them myself and my M3 identifies the new tires within a few miles. Really suggest winter tires if you drive on much ice and snow.
 

I'm not sure what you are saying but I am positive that if I owned a P Model 3 that cost me ~ $60k my first priority would be to not drive it into a ditch or up someone's bumper in the winter.