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They probably don't use as much salt up there as they do down here. I've had wheels where I kicked, hammered, applied a spreader bar and still could get them off.
Apply the anti-sieze to the part of the wheel that touches the hub, just a thin coating is all thats needed.
llavalle
Member
I think it really depend on the specific hub + wheel combo. Toyota/Lexus and Volvo are very prone to sticking because the hub's conical part is very tall have a lot of surface area that bind. The model S not so much (mine anyway). When it binds on the cone part of the hub (when you have hub-centric wheels), it's really stuck on there and needs a lot of force. When only the flat surface sticks, it usually is a easier pull.
And we do use salt a lot here.
Thanks for the tip. I did just that. This is what the sales rep told me via LiveChat:
Me: I currently have 21" wheels/tires staggered, and would like a 19" package (non staggered) - I've gone through your workflow on your website, and I'm getting a warning about max pressure: "Requires 45psi for 245/45-19. Blizzak LM60 has max pressure of 44psi. Please confirm max pressure rating prior to sale." - my package contains the LM-32 - is it going to work?
Him: The LM32 in the 245/45R19 size has a max PSI of 50 as I'm checking, which would be correct. This would be a guaranteed fitment, so you are good with this setup. If you order online, please reference Tanner as your previous contact below the credit card info on the checkout screen and I’ll expedite the order process for you and ensure all is correct on the order before shipment as well.
So it looks like it should work. Oddly enough the LM60, which is the specific tire mentioned in the warning, also has a max PSI of 50... could it be that the newer versions of the tire support higher PSI? I would hope that the warning is generated automatically by a software rule related to the max psi value in a database somewhere, but I'm not so sure now.
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I'm not married to the Blizzaks so I'm happy to consider the X-Ice. If I understand correctly, the X-Ice would do better in harsh ice/snow conditions, while trading off "reasonably bad weather" traction. Is that correct?
In between my trips to Tahoe, the car is going to stay in San Jose where the temperatures aren't very low (probably average temps in low 50s), so ideally I'd like a tire that can play nice in "not too cold weather". Would the X-Ice do OK in "not so cold weather" for a couple of months until I switch back to the performance summer 21s?
In other words, is there a noticeable difference between the LM-32 and the X-Ice when driving around in low 50s temps (probably a mix of dry and wet, especially this year)?
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Do I need jack stands if I just want to swap wheels one at a time? I thought maybe I could just use a hydraulic jack to lift the wheel I'm working on.
I guess jacks can fail, but I found one that has a safety bar to secure the jack in "high" position here on amazon. Would that not be sufficient?
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Good point!
So "very high" setting, then "jack mode", then Park.
That should lock the rear wheels, but not the front ones... I guess I need some wheel chocks for those to help keeping the car still.
What do people who live in warm areas and go skiing on the weekend typically do? Do they swap wheels every weekend? maybe use a different type of winter tire that is more tolerant of higher temps?
Thanks for the tip - can you elaborate why it's safer than just using the jack, and why it saves time? It's not obvious to me, but I haven't done this before so I have no experience.
What I was worried about with the jack stands is that you can't adjust their height, so you have to live with the angle they put the car in (if you only use one of them), unlike the jack where you can control the height (once the wheel is off the ground, that should be enough right?) and keep the car "almost horizontal" with less of a chance of rolling in any direction. Am I missing something?
What I do is use Nokian WR-g3. They are as good as all but the best snow tires (severe service rated) but don't melt when it gets warm.
Jacks can lose pressure, and the lower priced ones have a lot of bad reviews.
It can be quicker to use stands because you're grouping the actions. Note that it probably won't be quicker the first time, but after a few changes it can be.
Snow tires, particularly performance ones like the LM-32 will wear just fine at 50F, sure it will be accelerated vs always running at 32F, but it won't be too bad. Even running at 70-90F they'll last ok. I had a friend who ran Blizzaks all year round on a car he was getting rid of and he had put 10k miles on them and they still had plenty of tread.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I've been using a regular floor jack to swap wheels for several years now (now including the MS), and never had a problem. I just jack up each corner and change the wheels. So it's four up/down cycles, which is a pain.
I've been searching high and low for a jack device where I can lift one side of the car at once and change both wheels on each side at once. But so far, I've come up empty. I don't have room for a regular lift. I want to get something like this QuickJack and only use it on one side at a time, but the MS is at the limit of the weight rating. Also, I don't think it's long enough to hit both jack points: BL-5000SLX-AC EZ Portable Car Lift - Lightweight Race Jacks - QuickJack USA
I keep looking.
llavalle
Member
I just use the front jack point. Lift high enough and the rear wheel is also in the air... Saves time!
kevincwelch
Active Member
Brief video of when John visited me to try out the Jackpoint Jackstands.
They aren't truly needed for simply swapping out wheels, but it is safer....especially if you want to do any cleaning of your rotor hats or any other wheel well cleaning, etc.
They aren't truly needed for simply swapping out wheels, but it is safer....especially if you want to do any cleaning of your rotor hats or any other wheel well cleaning, etc.
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AMPUP
Member
Yep, same as me. I use s hydraulic jack with hockey pucks, battery power wrench and use the gorilla lug nuts with a plastic sleeve, topped off with a torque wrench. Quick as anything now.
Is there any way to specify a different set of tires when ordering the car?? I just confirmed my order and am supposed to receive it around the end of Feb or March in Dedham, MA. Seems like the 'default' tires (Michelin Primacy?) aren't that great, and would be happy to pay an up-charge to get better tires instead and not have to worry about replacing them. I hear that the Nokian WRG3 tires are the best all-season options that work well in winter conditions and would much rather have them year-round than the Primacy. What's the best way to simply get the Nokian's (or any other better tires) instead?
That I know of...all season tires are like Unicorns. Theoretical at best. More likely...a complete lie. I like my Michelin all season (spring , summer, fall) and my other Michelin's (XIce winter tires).
No, you can't alter tires other than to change from 19" to 21". As far as the Primacies go, it depends on what you want. They are not so good for winter use, but have great rolling resistance, good tire life, and good flat resistance. For winter the best way is just to get another set of wheels and mount the tires of your choice on them.
kyalami
Member
I ordered the winter tire/wheel package the first week of December. 7 weeks later I have received no notification from my SC (Dedham Mass) that they have arrived? This seems like an unusually long time to wait. By the time I get these tires the winter season may be over? Any other experiences out there?
Redmiata98
Member
If anyone is still interested in the OEM 21" grey winter package, I am in Virginia and have a set listed in the for sale part of the forum.
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