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Wiper fluid/sprayer issue

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by FutureOwner, Aug 22, 2015.

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  1. FutureOwner

    FutureOwner Member

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    I'm having a bit of trouble with my wiper fluid sprayers. The reservoir is full and I hear the motor going when I pull the wiper stalk, but no fluid through the nozzles. I read this previous thread and covered my nozzles while my gf pulled the wiper stalk.

    Windscreen/windshield squirter reboot problem

    Wiper motor whirred, but I couldn't feel any pressure at the nozzles. The fluid in the reservoir looks like normal wiper fluid (atomic blue in color and seems clear. Per the older thread there was some talk of disconnecting the lines from the reservoir to the nozzles. Any idea how to get to those? Or should I just wait for my next service?
     
  2. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    I was running straight water in my reservoir which I believe caused algae to grow and clog the lines. Took all the hoses out that were visible, they were all clear so the clog was down lower where I couldn't access the tank nor did I want to rip into it. Before diving into the teardown task the line broke free. My guess the enviro that was keeping the clog alive down there wasn't optimum. I then poured a mix of white vinegar / water for which I've been clog free ever since. Still running the vinegar / water mix.

    Are you running the std. antifreeze/windshield washer liquid in there? That should not allow things to grow in your lines, and your issue may be a different flavor of a clog.
     
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  3. sethr

    sethr CPO Roadster #1089

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    I don't know how to quote a thread name - but look at "Weak Windshield Washer" - good info there. My washer pump was clogged with bacteria/fungus, the SC cleaned it out, and then sterilized it with alcohol before adding new washer fluid. They said it was gunked up because of lack of use - (it only had 1000 miles after three years).
     
  4. FutureOwner

    FutureOwner Member

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    I just bought the car last week, but it does look like a thick atomic blue fluid, which makes me thick antifreeze + washer fluid.

    Any paint concerns with running vinegar through the system?
     
  5. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    #5 wiztecy, Aug 23, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2015
    I use distilled white vinegar, they sell it at costco, and dilute it with water. It won't harm your paint. Some people use it to remove water spots on their car. They say it will make over time your car look dull and that's because it does break down the wax protectant coating over time but that's remedied by reapplying the wax. Should be doing that anyways just to protect the car. I honestly haven't yet.

    I've been running my hardtop for sometime and using the vinegar mix, and where the water runs across the top from the windshield I can't see any difference in the paint. Still people say the car looks like new even without the re-waxing so in my observation and other's its fine to use. If you're really concerned you can pick up a ph meter and dilute the water/vinegar mix until its just acidic enough so that bacteria and algae cannot survive.

    Some say that the (actually any) antifreeze additive which is in your typical windshield washer fluid is not good on the wax either.
     
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  6. FutureOwner

    FutureOwner Member

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    #6 FutureOwner, Aug 24, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
    How much vinegar did you add to the system?

    With the help of a chopstick for stirring, a turkey baster and empty boba tea cup, I found the problem. Algae... sucked most of it out, ran some vinegar through the system, filled up again with wiper fluid. I will continue to monitor the system.

    IMG_0181.jpg
     
    • Informative x 1
  7. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    I too suffered the scourge of tank crud -- ironically after having Telsa service supposedly clean the system last service.

    I discovered this morning, after an unfortunate bird pooping incident that the washer was totally plugged. It was a smeary mess.

    I ended up doing the following:
    Hand pumped most of the tank content out. Shop vaccumed the remainder interior.
    Equal parts near boiling water and vinegar. Wait a few minutes. Agitate with hand pump for a few minutes. Wait a few more minutes. Pump out tank, shop vac. Interior of the tank is now spotless.
    Disconnected the hose at the check valve just south of the sprayer. Attached feed hose to extension and fed into bucket. Refilled tank with equal parts near very hot water and vinegar. Checked flow from washer pump, flow ok. Drained tank with washer pump. Purged some line crud.
    Pulled the check valve. Soaked it in near boiling water and vinegar for several minutes. Attached it to the the hand pump and cycled a lot of fluid through it. It was extremely clogged, clear now.
    Reinstalled the check valve, hooked the hand pump to that. Cycled a bunch of very hot water and vinegar through that. Slightly clogged now clear.

    Washer is now working better than at any time since I've owned the car. Almost too well -- seems half the spray is hitting the roof.

    Swapped to orange (methanol'ed) washer fluid.
     
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  8. nsxpert

    nsxpert Member

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    slightly off topic:
    is there a way to re-aim the nozzle? Mine just sprays completely OVER the car
     
  9. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    You stick pin in the nozzle hole (its a ball socket) and direct it where you want. Usually high on the windshield so it hits the middle while driving.
     
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  10. nsxpert

    nsxpert Member

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    ah ha! thanks

     
  11. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    #11 Panicopticon, May 9, 2018
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    Windshield washing woes continue. The pump had ceased pumping, I removed it and got it working again. Some comments if someone else needs to do the same. Various photos.

    With these tricks this is probably only be an hour job, if that.

    - The scrivets (plastic trim screws) that Tesla used on this car are stunningly terrible. They're easier to remove if you put a little Windex around where the screw head meets the washer. Its a lubricant that won't hang around which seems wise in this application. Assume the screwdriver isn't going to work initially you'll just strip the head. Grip the sides of the screw head with pliers and give it a few twists to loosen it up. Assume you'll probably just need to replace the scrivets...

    - Replace your scrivets with Honda part number 91512-SX0-003, these are the pop type rather than the screw type. Your life will be better. They're a good size match and will be much easier to remove later, they'll probably even be reusable. I didn't bother to track down the Tesla part number for their scrivets.

    - The tank doesn't come out easily. You'll need to use a bit of force to get it to pop out there in my case it was slightly larger than the opening. The tank plastic is flexible, should be fine. You'll want to disconnect the power cable and hose before attempting to remove it. The tank appears to be a custom Tesla part.

    - There is a rubber strainer in the tank, it also seals the pump to the tank body, without it the tank wont seal at all. You can only clean it by removing the entire tank and the pump. Its likely this will need to replaced at some point. It doesn't seem to have a part number in the Tesla database, its possible its included as part of the pump or tank. No clue if there is a matching Lotus part number, doesn't appear in their diagrams.

    - Check to see if your pump is bound up, if you look at the pictures the pick up tube has a white bit of plastic in the center of it. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently rotate it manually, it may free up the motor and the pump might start working again. Mine did. Some of the junk these tanks grow is thready or hair like, I suspect the spindle just bound up.

    - The pump doesn't have a part number on it, mine's only marking is AIP LTD. The Telsa part number for the part is 6005133, I have no idea what they'd charge for it. However, its really a Lotus part (shocking, I know). Lotus used two different style pumps, only one will fit in the Roadster, its the old one. One Lotus parts side remarked: "The S1 and early 'K' Series S2 usually has the pump connector at the side". I believe these part Lotus numbers are correct: A111M6047S, A132U6027H, A120M6058F, A132U6108H. If you check the diagram in the album I linked, the appropriate pump is marked #23. I purchased a spare from a Chinese Manufacturer/Seller on eBay for $10.

    - Order yourself a new check valve, you'll almost certainly need to replace it. It lives up near the windshield. I don't believe there is anything but hose between the pump and this valve. Alternatively, replace the check valve with a splice, you'll pick up a bit more output and pressure at the cost of some additional pumping time.

    Hope that helps.
     
  12. backmost

    backmost Member

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    Thank you for the detailed write up on this! We need to keep this type of knowledge readily available.
     

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