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Wire size for wall charger

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Did I read your first question correctly? You are going to try to use a 60A/1P breaker?
No...its a 60 amp 240V two pole THQL breaker...dual space - 2inches. I found out GE doesn't make a THQP double pole breaker (slimline verion that only uses two half spaces - 1 inch) so I have to use a standard size Qline breaker (THQP) that uses up 2 inches in my subpanel for 240V....which completely fills up my subpanel now in my addition. What I need to know is if people are using GFCI if they are hardwiring to a charger which is what I plan on doing.
 
It would work.. I just said that #4 would be better and just a little more expensive than #6.
And by the way NMB #6 is rated at 55A so can't be used for 60A breaker, while THHN #6 rated at 75A and can be used with a 60A breaker
I haven't bought a charger yet and don't have the vehivcle yet...thought I would get it all done anyway since it will happen sooner or later.
I want a 60 amp circuit just to increase my available chargers for hardwiring and I only want to do this once since I have to open a will up.

I'll look into THHN #4 to see if it will be useable to work with. I want a neutral just to eliminate any issues in the future. I just don't know if Qty 3 #4 and a #8 can be pulled in 1 inch ID PVC pipe easily.
 
If you're hardwiring the Tesla wall connector, you don't need a GFCI (it specifically says not to use one). You don't need a neutral unless you're installing a 14-50 outlet - EV chargers don't typically require a neutral. If you're running a neutral because you're going to install a 14-50 outlet, you definitely don't need #4 wire for that purpose. #6 in a conduit is perfectly acceptable. The additional cost of #4 is about $1.00 per foot and is much harder to work with. Also, when I installed our second Tesla wall connector over the weekend, I don't recall that there was even much room left in the connectors of the wall connector to accommodate #4 wire (but I could be wrong about that).

Long story short: you need to figure out what you're doing. Hard wired connector - no GFCI breaker and #6 is probably fine. Outlet - GFCI and #4 wire is overkill.
 
Completely agree with @iamnid
If you go with 14-50 - you can't use 60A breaker and you don't need #4, you ll need #6 for 50A setup and GFCI breaker. If you use this outlet only for EV, you will not need neutral wire, but just to make a setup correctly, add a neutral wire because the 14-50 outlet is designed to have it. Maybe this outlet will be used by other consumers which requires to have a neutral.
If you go with a wall charger - for 60A setup better to use #4, but THHN #6 would work as well. There is no point at all to install 3 hot wires. Waste of money. And no GFCI breaker.

So you need clearly understand what are you trying to do and plan the setup accordingly.
 
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No GFCI for hardwired EVSE's. Only receptacles.

Use #6. #4 is overkill unless you have a very long run, and it's much harder to work with.
Personally I would not pull a neutral wire. If someone changes to a 14-50R in the future, a neutral can be added into conduit at that time pretty easily, or a 6-50R can be used. But ok to do it if it makes you feel better.
You can also use #10 for ground, #8 is a waste of money & conduit fill. (#10 is allowed for up to 60A circuits.)
 
Okay....I read all the comments....The issue is it is not a Telsa charger/car and I do not know the charger type yet that I will end up with......either a 40amp plug in with a 14-50R or hardwired for a 48 or 50 amp charger. The run is only probably 35 feet but it will be a pain and improbable to try and add any addiitonal wire in the run at a later date due to the bends.

The other issue is that GE GFCI breakers for the THQL type are $200-$300 versus $14 for non GFCI which almost means I might as well install a hardwired 48/50 EV charger (with a built in GFCI) with a 60 amp non GFCI breaker (spending the money on a better charger instead of a GFCI breaker).

So I think I'm going to run 3 THHN 6 gauge wires (2 poles and neutral just in case) and a #10 ground. This way I can use a hardwired 48/50 amp charger on a 60 amp non GFCI with a fallback plan just in case to a 14-50R with a 50 amp GFCI breaker - I just want to get the run done now while I have a helper and I can add the breaker and terminate once I get a charger early next year.
 
So I think I'm going to run 3 THHN 6 gauge wires (2 poles and neutral just in case) and a #10 ground. This way I can use a hardwired 48/50 amp charger on a 60 amp non GFCI with a fallback plan just in case to a 14-50R with a 50 amp GFCI breaker - I just want to get the run done now while I have a helper and I can add the breaker and terminate once I get a charger early next year.

This is the way.
 
The other issue is that GE GFCI breakers for the THQL type are $200-$300 versus $14 for non GFCI
THIS. RIGHT. HERE.
This is why it is getting kind of dumb and impractical to even bother to suggest putting in a 14-50 outlet anymore. That requirement for GFCI breakers makes it an expensive and not very good choice. It seems all around better and easier to just go with a cheap breaker and hard wired.

So I think I'm going to run 3 THHN 6 gauge wires (2 poles and neutral just in case) and a #10 ground. This way I can use a hardwired 48/50 amp charger on a 60 amp non GFCI with a fallback plan just in case to a 14-50R with a 50 amp GFCI breaker - I just want to get the run done now while I have a helper and I can add the breaker and terminate once I get a charger early next year.
Neutral or not I think depends on the purpose. If you just consider this as an EV charging connection permanently for the house, then those will never need a neutral. That's always just going to be a 240V only circuit. But if you think it's important for house value when you sell it that you can advertise that it has an RV plug in connection, then that would need to be a 14-50 specifically and would need a neutral. I don't think that's worthwhile.
 
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The more I think about it,,,,it will always only be used for car chargers and hardwired so a full 48 amp charger can be used. I'll just pull two hots and a ground,

Ground wire... I received a roll of stranded #10 with green insulation..not exactly what I ordered. Can I use this or should it be solid for ground with no covering...all in schedule 40 pipe. I want to abide by NEC rules..same as our town.
 
The more I think about it,,,,it will always only be used for car chargers and hardwired so a full 48 amp charger can be used. I'll just pull two hots and a ground,

Ground wire... I received a roll of stranded #10 with green insulation..not exactly what I ordered. Can I use this or should it be solid for ground with no covering...all in schedule 40 pipe. I want to abide by NEC rules..same as our town.
Good news. You accidentally got the right ground wire. You're good to go.
 
Thanks!... Starting install now even though I have no EV car...just one on order. Figure I'll get one eventually even if the current order falls through. Hoping I can claim some of the fed rebate money to reimburse me if possible.
 
Thanks!... Starting install now even though I have no EV car...just one on order. Figure I'll get one eventually even if the current order falls through. Hoping I can claim some of the fed rebate money to reimburse me if possible.
We had no problem claiming the tax credit even though we did our install months prior to our EV delivery. There's no actual requirement that you own an EV.
 
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All my plans fell through and I have to redo my design and send back my wire and other accessories. As I was about to start wiring up the subpanel, after moving circuits and wires to make space for the new 60 amp breaker, I double checked the supply wires since they looked a little too small. The GE subpanel box is rated at 125 amps max and it currently has about 17 circuit breakers. Most of the circuits are never utilized in the newer part of my house (work done about 20 years ago) and more was put in than really needed. I thought the subpanel was hardwired to the main panel but traced it out and found that they wired the sub to a 50 amp circuit breaker in the main. I found the sheathing wire markings and they used 6/3 NM cable to feed this subpanel!!! It already has a dryer and whirlpool GFCI circuit in addition to all the 15 and 20 amp wall and light circuits (15 half width THQP breakers).

I don't think I should even put a 40 amp (32 amp for the EV charger) on this box!

So now I am thinking I should just run 6/2 THHN with a #10 ground from my main 200 amp service panel to a dedicated hardwired charger (Chargepoint) and place a 60 amp non-GFCI breaker in the main panel. Pretty sure this meets code. Length total from main to charger will be 55-60'. Any issues?

That means I have to run and drill through my open basement joists (insulation stuffed between them) and out into the garage ceiling to the charger location. Basically the entire length of the house. Garage and basement on the same level. So I was planning on running 3/4" schedule 40 through the basement joists and secured to the garage ceiling and wall....with the 6/2 and ground pulled through and hardwired to the EV charger. Any issues wiith code? This way I can pull 48 amps from the Chargepoint EV charger (which has a maximum of 50 amps using heavier wire and larger breakers - not worth the cost for just 2 amps.
 
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Option 1: Keep your initial plan, but upgrade the wire to your subpanel. If you go bigger than a 100 amp breaker, it's worth considering an aluminum wire.

Option 2: With a complex run like that, it may be worth just running 6/2 MC wire back to your main panel. Check with others though.

 
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Why not just attach the conduit to the bottom of the joist instead of drilling them all out?

A large load like an EV charger is always ideal coming from the main panel instead of the sub panel, but I agree that upgrading the sub panel feeder is another valid option.
 
Option 1: Keep your initial plan, but upgrade the wire to your subpanel. If you go bigger than a 100 amp breaker, it's worth considering an aluminum wire.

Option 2: With a complex run like that, it may be worth just running 6/2 MC wire back to your main panel. Check with others though.

Thanks. Option 1 would be a nightmare. Newer subpanel is in a hallway above garage and I would have to open a lot of sheetrock now to get to it and it would be

Option 2 is what I thought about too after more reading and I just ordered 75 feet of MC 6/2 for $250. It seems it would be a lot easier running through the basement joists and along the garage ceiling rather than using thhn via sch40 conduit.