With current Warranty restrictions is anyone thinking of buying used MS from Tesla?

[MP3Mike]

Are you saying that they modified this so that I can not just "remove" the car when I sell it but I can also state who I sold it so that they also simultaneously receive access to the car on their account?

Did you even read what I posted above? That is exactly what the Tesla documentation says: Tesla Account Support

Can I remove or transfer a car from my Tesla Account?
Yes. You can either transfer the car directly to the new buyer’s Tesla Account or just remove it from yours – all from inside your Tesla Account. We recommend doing this after you’ve handed off your car. The transfer process cannot be undone once completed.

Follow these steps to remove or transfer ownership of your Tesla:

1. Log into your Tesla Account
2. Select ‘Manage’ next to the car you’d like to transfer or remove
3. Scroll down and select ‘Remove Car’
4. Submit the new buyer’s information or select ‘Skip this Step’ if you’re unsure
5. Open the email confirmation sent to your inbox and confirm the final transfer

Note: If you transferred directly to the new owner, they will also receive an email confirmation. If no Tesla Account is associated with their email address, they’ll receive a second email to complete their account set-up.

 

[dgpcolorado]

One year for CPO seems to be pretty normal, however, the mileage restriction is the differentiator. I've never driven anywhere near 10k miles in a year, so that seems like a lot to me. How much do you drive per year?

Less than 10k miles per year seems to be below average from what I've read. I'm on the high side: about 21k miles per year for my first four years. That has dropped this year due to coronavirus. My Model S is my only car.

In addition to doing a lot of long road trips, such as 2200 miles to visit family, I drive 70 miles round trip for routine grocery shopping and 38 miles to work (volunteer job). Being able to fuel those miles with solar panels is the reason to drive an EV for me.

 

[CapeOne]

Have no idea where the OP suggested that you can't purchase the ESA on a used Tesla. AFAIK, these are available on both new and used; please correct me if otherwise.

I would assume you could purchase an ESA on used from Tesla, at least as long as the car was still under the original 4/50 limited warranty. However, cars older than 4 years or with more than 50k miles may not qualify.

 

[Hblick48]

I was lucky and got the Tesla 4 year warranty when I bought my car in May. I wouldn't own a Tesla without extended warranty, and that's from someone who has never purchased an extended warranty.

In fact, I had purchased a MS from Carvana, but they wouldn't sell extended warranty and I didn't know about X-Care then...canceled that purchase.

When my warranty expires, I'll either buy X-Care or trade it in.

 

[vegas888]

Thanx guys.
We decided to go with new MY, as much as we love MS its just too much money for something with couple of months of original warranty and one year extra.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

I would assume you could purchase an ESA on used from Tesla, at least as long as the car was still under the original 4/50 limited warranty. However, cars older than 4 years or with more than 50k miles may not qualify.

IIRC, there is a tiny "grace" period of about a month or 1,000 miles after the original warranty expires in which one can still purchase an ESA.

Details are on the website:

What is the eligible purchase period for Tesla Extended Service Agreements, and what do they cover?

You may purchase the Extended Service Agreement no later than 30 days or 1,000 miles past the expiration of your New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Extended Service Agreement

 

[Saabstory88]

My wife and I have toyed with going second Tesla for a while now, and we did ultimately decided to go with a used S from Tesla. We went with a lease return with low miles, and critically, without air suspension. That makes me feel confident enough that after the warranty runs out, in August 2022 or 60k miles, I can fix whatever might go wrong.

And seriously, from what I've seen, these cars are some of the easiest ones to work on I've ever owned. I might have to print some door handle parts or reflow a memory chip? Sign me up, I'll take that any day over spending a weekend replacing a timing chain. Like, even if it's 2026 and I have to replace a drive unit, I've never touched a subframe designed to drop out so seamlessly, I probably won't even have to use a torch. I don't know how this translates to labor rates for people who don't work on their own cars.

I also will not own another Tesla without FSD features, so I can't actually get a better private party deal for what I'm looking for. Even though the car has AP2 at the moment, I'll be able to schedule the HW3 swap on the day of delivery, and it is actually included, it does not cost extra even with an MCU1.

So it was $56k, 33k miles, MSM, white interior, pano, FSD, no SAS. If I bought it private party, it would have been a lot more for that config, and I still have a year and a half of vehicle warranty, and 5 years of battery / drivetrain. I feel good about that.

 

[Ostrichsak]

My wife and I have toyed with going second Tesla for a while now, and we did ultimately decided to go with a used S from Tesla. We went with a lease return with low miles, and critically, without air suspension. That makes me feel confident enough that after the warranty runs out, in August 2022 or 60k miles, I can fix whatever might go wrong.

Having owned several used Model S now I of both suspension types I would never own a coil Model S again.

And seriously, from what I've seen, these cars are some of the easiest ones to work on I've ever owned. I might have to print some door handle parts or reflow a memory chip? Sign me up, I'll take that any day over spending a weekend replacing a timing chain. Like, even if it's 2026 and I have to replace a drive unit, I've never touched a subframe designed to drop out so seamlessly, I probably won't even have to use a torch. I don't know how this translates to labor rates for people who don't work on their own cars.

What parts are you going to 3D print for the door handles? The part that often fails in the older version handle is a skeletonized gear that is metal. It fails because they used a slightly inferior metal and mold process to make them cheaper. Do you honestly believe that a 3D printed piece of soft plastic is going to stand up better than skeletonized metal of any cast process? Fortunately this is probably a non-issue though since the newest version (v3) of the door handles is much cheaper and has far less parts to fail and should offer a more robust and inexpensive replacement for DIY. You can also still replace the typical parts that fail in the older version for a few bucks here and there and opt for better components that would last longer requiring less of your time to repair regularly. Either way is a fair bit better option than previously laying down nearly $1k to replace these bad boys though.

Reflow a memory chip? This isn't a contact thing and simply reflowing the solder connects isn't going to do anything. The failure point is read/write cycles and when the chip is done... it's done. There's nothing to reflow or caveman your way through a repair. It needs a new eMMC and it needs everything reloaded including security keys and various other pieces of software that even Tesla struggles with consistency on... and the developed the hardware and software. Good luck with the self-repair on that. I'm not saying it can't be done as there are 3rd party individuals who have done exactly this but the learning curve (even if you have experience in this exact segment) is steep and the time invested to learn to roll your own will likely exceed the $500 (or less as most are covered for free now) price tag to have Tesla do it. True a timing chain can be a PITA (I used to do timing belts on 90's 4G63 DSM interference motors so I have an idea) but it's dead simple hardware mechanics. A special trained helper monkey can accomplish it and have it running flawlessly w/o a care in the world once it's complete. When you're done, you don't even think about it again for 100k or so miles.

I do think that lots of these aspects are simple enough to replace and I hope that as time goes by things like replacement motors and packs continue to come down in price to make them less painful should you have something go bump outside of the warranty. You can replace them yourself easy enough in most cases but lots of these have very low labor costs due to ease of replacing so that's not the cost prohibitive aspect.

I also will not own another Tesla without FSD features, so I can't actually get a better private party deal for what I'm looking for. Even though the car has AP2 at the moment, I'll be able to schedule the HW3 swap on the day of delivery, and it is actually included, it does not cost extra even with an MCU1.

I still think that opinions like this are why the AP1 cars are SUCH a great value. People cast off AP1 like it's trash but to the other 99% of the population who has never experienced even AP1... it's amazing. A game changer. It makes your car do things that you never thought a car could do and were even terrified to attempt it for the first time. And, let's be honest, even with this latest special beta tester only version of FSD, AP1 is still capable of 85% of what the newer hardware/software can do and it even does some more common aspects better. There's a precipitous drop-off from AP1 to AP2/2.5/3 and for me that's where the value is. Compare it to any other used luxury car in that price range it it leaves them all standing in what it's capable of. For me I'm not willing to invest ANY more money into FSD hardware until Tesla proves that they're actually capable of doing something functionally useful over previous versions. I get that they currently are but not in any massive difference to justify the price delta IMHO. This is an opinion thing though so I'm not trying to argue or say you're wrong, just giving another perspective. If you can afford it (and people's definition of what they can "afford" is also hugely subjective) and would rather buy once and cry once then go for it. That said, I see an awful lot of people who have taken that approach and then gone through three new cars before Tesla has even made FSD live. I'm not saying that you should never do it, I'm just saying that being wise about what you buy when may be of significant financial gain if you're concerned about that.

So it was $56k, 33k miles, MSM, white interior, pano, FSD, no SAS. If I bought it private party, it would have been a lot more for that config, and I still have a year and a half of vehicle warranty, and 5 years of battery / drivetrain. I feel good about that.

I must have missed it, did you say what battery size this was?

 

[VikH]

Used MS cars will have a hard time competing with this (2020 MS LR+ for $67k with 375 miles on the odo). I have seen inventory cars in the $66k range. -

2020 Model S | Tesla

 

[Saabstory88]

Having owned several used Model S now I of both suspension types I would never own a coil Model S again.

Why is that? Maybe it's just the been the road conditions, but I have only heard people complain about air suspension maintenance. Now I'm curious, do the springs just ride worse, or are they difficult to maintain.

What parts are you going to 3D print for the door handles? The part that often fails in the older version handle is a skeletonized gear that is metal. It fails because they used a slightly inferior metal and mold process to make them cheaper. Do you honestly believe that a 3D printed piece of soft plastic is going to stand up better than skeletonized metal of any cast process? Fortunately this is probably a non-issue though since the newest version (v3) of the door handles is much cheaper and has far less parts to fail and should offer a more robust and inexpensive replacement for DIY. You can also still replace the typical parts that fail in the older version for a few bucks here and there and opt for better components that would last longer requiring less of your time to repair regularly. Either way is a fair bit better option than previously laying down nearly $1k to replace these bad boys though.

When I say 3D printing, I do in fact mean a DMLS process (metal). I'm owed some machine time from a former coworker of mine. I do enjoy modelling parts.

Reflow a memory chip? This isn't a contact thing and simply reflowing the solder connects isn't going to do anything. The failure point is read/write cycles and when the chip is done... it's done. There's nothing to reflow or caveman your way through a repair. It needs a new eMMC and it needs everything reloaded including security keys and various other pieces of software that even Tesla struggles with consistency on... and the developed the hardware and software. Good luck with the self-repair on that. I'm not saying it can't be done as there are 3rd party individuals who have done exactly this but the learning curve (even if you have experience in this exact segment) is steep and the time invested to learn to roll your own will likely exceed the $500 (or less as most are covered for free now) price tag to have Tesla do it.

Totally understood, I mean reflow in terms of the process, not repairing solder joints. At least some of the key retrieval process is pretty similar to what I do for some freelance work, in terms of cracking open discontinued building control systems to eat their brains. I might not get it done, but it will be a fun process, and if I mess it up, I'll pay the piper for the MCU2. I guess I should have been more specific, but yes, I would rather spend a weekend learning my buddy's sketchy Chinese BGA machine than traditional automotive maintenance. I guess I was trying to say is that the difficult parts of this car lie within the Venn diagram of things within my skillset, and things I like to do, which makes the prospect of working on my car in the future not seem like a chore.

If you can afford it (and people's definition of what they can "afford" is also hugely subjective) and would rather buy once and cry once then go for it. That said, I see an awful lot of people who have taken that approach and then gone through three new cars before Tesla has even made FSD live. I'm not saying that you should never do it, I'm just saying that being wise about what you buy when may be of significant financial gain if you're concerned about that.

We had considered buying something less capable and upgrading later, but definitely moved towards buy once cry once.

I must have missed it, did you say what battery size this was?

100D. I'm still pretty pleased.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Why is that? Maybe it's just the been the road conditions, but I have only heard people complain about air suspension maintenance. Now I'm curious, do the springs just ride worse, or are they difficult to maintain.

Has nothing to do with the maintenance as I've never had to perform any maintenance on either suspension solution. The ride is far better on the SaS equipped cars and the ability to adjust ride height ends up being far more useful in more use cases than you realize prior to having it.

When I say 3D printing, I do in fact mean a DMLS process (metal). I'm owed some machine time from a former coworker of mine. I do enjoy modelling parts.

Even then you can get an upgraded version of the OEM paddle gear (not the cheaper and flimsier one that was their 2nd version of the part) for like $5 or less so it's not even worth your time to print an inferior part. Call in that favor for something more exotic than a $5 off-the-shelf and OEM part that's going to be better is what I would do anyway.

Totally understood, I mean reflow in terms of the process, not repairing solder joints. At least some of the key retrieval process is pretty similar to what I do for some freelance work, in terms of cracking open discontinued building control systems to eat their brains. I might not get it done, but it will be a fun process, and if I mess it up, I'll pay the piper for the MCU2. I guess I should have been more specific, but yes, I would rather spend a weekend learning my buddy's sketchy Chinese BGA machine than traditional automotive maintenance. I guess I was trying to say is that the difficult parts of this car lie within the Venn diagram of things within my skillset, and things I like to do, which makes the prospect of working on my car in the future not seem like a chore.

If you b0rk the eMMC self-swap it's not as simple as going to Tesla with a $2,500 as my understanding is that it's necessary to recover your security key(s) and other one-off data sets for them to properly/fully upgrade you to a MCU2 (or even a MCU1 for that matter) so I don't think your aspect of "nothing to lose" applies from what I've read.

We had considered buying something less capable and upgrading later, but definitely moved towards buy once cry once.

To me the delta of price versus the delta of real world benefits is still skewed in favor of the cars that 4-5 years old. That's for me though and I don't mind buying multiple times as I've yet to lose money on buying/selling a Model S. YMMV

100D. I'm still pretty pleased.

Seems like a pretty solid deal. Not too many people buying the coil cars though so if that's a pro to you when others tend to see it as a con there's value to be had in that for sure. It may make it more difficult to move later on though which could negate a chunk of that savings.