Hi!
Unfortunately, no electrician offered any solution like this. If they had I'd have jumped at the chance. Heck I would hire you if you were out here to take a look.
A/C load is minimal. We barely use A/C and the HVAC combo unit is brand new (efficient). We have a gas range and gas dryer, so it's not like I can convert electric to gas to free up amperes there. I can't easily run cord from dryer because it's upstairs, and our connection to the garage goes through a small patio with locking door. It would be a somewhat ugly solution even if the dryer were electric and had a nice spot to plug in. I work at home so trickle-charging would be better than that. But, I still want to pursue this new line install to see if I can get it done for a reasonable price.
Very good Spacep0d.... Ok Deal!! I'll work for no-charge.... Just tell me everything you can about your current situation. Just to confirm: I assume the reason you are calling it '60 amps' is that is what the doubly-wide circuit breaker handle says on it by the revenue meter for your unit in the common meter closet.
You may say, "Well I'm not an electrician", but I'm sure you can tell me things such as:
1). Do you have a 'Tombstone' - shaped outlet or else a very large outlet unused next to your gas dryer?
2). Does the '60 amp' loadcenter in your Condo have a handle tie on more than one set of breakers and/or a doubly-wide breaker
(indicating a 208-240 volt load). I know you have at least one since I'm assuming the HVAC condenser unit is large enough to need more than 120 volts.
3). Please tell me everything you can about your 60 amp loadcenter (Panelboard) in your unit... Brand, number of single width, and number of double width breakers (count a handle-tied breaker as a 'double width' breaker)., as well as if there appears to be any unused spaces. If you are just slightly mechanically inclined, you can remove 4 cover screws and gently remove the cover to expose the bus stabs. The reason for this check is sometimes the panel has more 'spare slots on the cover' than actually exist on the guts below. Removing the cover will let you see what is going on. Now some people are absolutely fearful of trying even this.... The only time I'd be concerned would be if a klutz 'helped' you and dropped the corner of the metal cover onto the interior bus stabs, making a big bang and the lights go out. Whenever I remove a cover of a loadcenter, I carefully tighten the main lug screws (the 2 big wires near the top or bottom of the panel, since if you are adding to its load with a car charger you don't want any bad (heating) connections. This doesn't tighten the connections at the meter closet (in the unlikely event of the 60 ampere breaker tripping in the breaker closet perhaps a friendly maintenance man could tighten the same connection at the meter closet on this 60 amp breaker, which won't have a utility seal on it since it is beyond the unmetered wiring. WARNING: The screwdriver shaft will be LIVE and fused at the breaker size for your unit in the meter closet, so be sure you are touching the insulated handle ONLY , and don't let the shaft get near anything other than the lug screw you are tightening.
3B). Square footage of the condo, also, please look for the MCA on the air conditioning condenser (Minimum Circuit Ampacity)
4). From what you have stated so far, it looks like you can put in a 16 or 24 ampere, 208-240 volt charging cord or wallbox at an absolute minimum, and there is no need for the panelboard to be relocated since you will just be adding a single double wide breaker to either 2 existing spaces, or 2 freed up spaces by taking 4 single breakers and replacing them with 2 double (halfwidth) breakers.
5). If you are charging a TESLA, then you can precisely control the charging rate from the dashboard, should you decide to install a 32 ampere wallbox or receptacle. If you are charging a non-Tesla and using a wallbox, or evse-cord, get one where you can adjust the current from the wallbox or a smart-phone ap controlling the wallbox. As an example of that, my current Bolt EV has no mechanism in and of itself to limit its current to anything other than what the wallbox tells it. But this is only an issue with non-Teslas.
Hope this helps.
P.S. As far as the HOA concerns, they just want to make sure you don't overload the entire joint.... So to that end, If you could tell me the size of the main service equipment, whether single or 3 phase, (If you can identify, and look at your Revenue Meter (or if a bunch of them are exactly alike and you can't identify which one is precisely yours, just look at ANY of them and see if the FORM on it is either 2S (240) or 12S (208), how many meters are in the meter closet, etc - any information to that end... It doesn't affect anything you are going to do here, and from what I can see, am I correct in assuming you do *NOT* need to notify the HOA if you are doing things just totally within your unit, which would be true if you are not even changing out your unit's loadcenter/panelboard (the reason for the dual terminology is that a loadcenter *IS* a cheap panelboard). The only reason for the single or 3 phase 'check' is to determine the charging voltage for your home, which you can also determine by using a voltmeter once the cover is off your loadcenter in your own unit.
But all of the above is just to reassure the HOA that you will be adding a trivial load when compared to the total load of the entire complex.
Bill