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Worth it to upgrade from LR RWD to P3D?

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Tesla can only remove SW features if ownership of the car passes back to them- which it did in the case you're talking about (though they failed to push the removal update before it went to auction, causing a comedy of errors)

I just found this article:
Tesla owner says remotely disabled Autopilot features have been restored

Looks like they gave the guy his features back! At least they acknowledged they made a mistake and corrected it. Hoping I don't have any similar issues since I am buy used. The pictures from the car add shows the Autopilot screen and Navigate on Autopilot option was enabled, so I know the car has EAP. We'll see if it's still on the car once I get it.
 
The P3D+’s wheels are susceptible to pothole damage so if you hit those now at any time in your 3 you might be looking at $1k+ per wheel/tire to fix that hot mess with your new-to-you performance model. You also can’t use take-offs of the OEM 18s or 19s as they won’t fit so expect to shell out $2500+ for aftermarket 18s with tires. If you live where it snows, the P3D+ also has summer only tires (unless PO replaced them with all-seasons or gives you a winter tire set). So expect to possibly get expensive winter tires ($300-$400+ each) for the 20s (with limited selection) or the aforementioned aftermarket 18s with a set of winter and summer tires (+$1k for adding the summers).

Don’t forget to check insurance which can be much more costly with the performance trims.

What part of this are people disagreeing with?
 
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I'll follow up on my experience and provide my opinion on a few issues people have mentioned. Everyone is different and my young family absolutely loves the P. My two toddlers always demand "fast fast" when we get to a light and my wife, who has never in her life felt the need for speed in any scenario, now loves launching from stoplights when she can convince me to let her drive.

I didn't really need the extra 20 miles in range and I was coming from a leaf, so 300 mile range anxiety is a big non-issue first world problem from my perspective. I find the ride to be comfortable, but sporty, and the road noise to be on par with my wife's Lexus SUV. It certainly isn't a perfect car but I doubt you can find a better combination of raw power and daily driver convenience in any vehicle.
 
When Performance first came out in June 2018 (there abouts) this question came up a bunch. I asked myself and myself said "do it"

LR RWD was great, this is better. Feels different with a heavier front end and such but the zoom is pretty fun.

Despite the P car's faster acceleration and top end speed, in reality from 30-70 or 20-50 both cars offer similar performance.

Having had both I find passing performance much better in the P at legal and slightly exaggerated speeds
 
What part of this are people disagreeing with?

Pretty much everything you said was wrong and misleading.
  • After 14+K miles on Beirut-quality (aka NJ/NY) roads, I've collected ZERO rim or tire damage.
    • Yes, you can bend any wheel by an appropriately sized pot hole. I've previously "accomplished" that with 16". 17", 18", and 19" wheels.
  • Bent rims don't cost $1K to fix, more like $150-$250.
  • Aftermarket 18" or 19" wheels do NOT cost $2500. I bought my set of winter 18" wheels from TireRack.com for $746.92 for 4 rims.
  • Winter tires do NOT cost $300-400 each. I paid $213.49 per tire (Michelin X-Ice Xi3).
  • Assumption on insurance pricing is also base-less
Does this help?
 
Pretty much everything you said was wrong and misleading.
  • After 14+K miles on Beirut-quality (aka NJ/NY) roads, I've collected ZERO rim or tire damage.
    • Yes, you can bend any wheel by an appropriately sized pot hole. I've previously "accomplished" that with 16". 17", 18", and 19" wheels.
  • Bent rims don't cost $1K to fix, more like $150-$250.
  • Aftermarket 18" or 19" wheels do NOT cost $2500. I bought my set of winter 18" wheels from TireRack.com for $746.92 for 4 rims.
  • Winter tires do NOT cost $300-400 each. I paid $213.49 per tire (Michelin X-Ice Xi3).
  • Assumption on insurance pricing is also base-less
Does this help?

Btw, I didn't say anything beyond asking a question.

But I have seen a number of broken wheel threads for the stock 20s. Engineering Explained and Out of Spec Motoring also broke these wheels. As a result they and others are moving to aftermarket 18s that fit the performance brakes.
 
Pretty much everything you said was wrong and misleading.
  • After 14+K miles on Beirut-quality (aka NJ/NY) roads, I've collected ZERO rim or tire damage.
    • Yes, you can bend any wheel by an appropriately sized pot hole. I've previously "accomplished" that with 16". 17", 18", and 19" wheels.
  • Bent rims don't cost $1K to fix, more like $150-$250.
  • Aftermarket 18" or 19" wheels do NOT cost $2500. I bought my set of winter 18" wheels from TireRack.com for $746.92 for 4 rims.
  • Winter tires do NOT cost $300-400 each. I paid $213.49 per tire (Michelin X-Ice Xi3).
  • Assumption on insurance pricing is also base-less
Does this help?
  • Cool you didn't bend a wheel. Plenty of evidence that this is happening to others (sometimes multiple wheels at the same time) on the P3D+ 20s and relatively few on the OEM 18s.
  • By "fix", I meant to replace. You can't always fix a bent wheel and personally I wouldn't trust that this was done correctly.
  • I said 18s with tires and I was not talking the cheapest POS wheels on tirerack but something half-way decent. If you want to put that on your P3D+ go ahead - I wouldn't. The Tsportline 18s that clear the P3D+ brakes are popular on the 3 and are $2400 for their tire and wheel package.
  • Current winter tires on tirerack for P3D+ 20s are $325, $443, and $401 each. Maybe you got a closeout deal on some tires - that isn't the going rate dude.
  • I said it "can" be more expensive and to check with your insurance company so reading comprehension much?
 
I didn't really need the extra 20 miles in range and I was coming from a leaf, so 300 mile range anxiety is a big non-issue first world problem from my perspective.
I think the real world range difference between a P and LR RWD is substantially more than 20 miles. I know it doesn't matter to you, but it might to someone else. As far as I know the LR RWD is still the range king of the 3 line even though it's the oldest version now.
 
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Difference between P3 with 18 and LR RWD is 20 miles. I suspect difference to P3 with 19s or 20s is more.
Real world it can be more than 20 miles even though EPA rating says differently. I dunno about you guys but in my experience (we’ve had both 3MR and P3D) at speeds up to 68m/110k they’re very similar but beyond that the dual motor cars turn into real energy hogs way beyond what the single motor cars see.
 
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