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voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Tesla has to give you a full refund of the $3500 if they have not assigned you a VIN.
WileyTheMan
Peanut Gallery Member
at this point, from what ive read, getting a rwd might let you get it sooner
I have a awd silver on order, ive been emailing tesla asking if I got a P would it be any sooner...they gave me the safe answer and said maybe but your order gets pushed to the back of the line
RAVAGESofTIME
Member
It effective raises the price $3,750. Not very much money in the whole scheme of things. I would just consider it the price of being indecisive.
Tesla will do everything they can to max gross margins.
While I think you would get a AWD by end of year.. especially being in CA - P would seal it.
Don't care what front line ISA says, I am talking game theory of Economics.
Kermee
It's Not Easy Being Green
I already have a VIN assigned, but hypothetically, my car is configured exactly how I wanted it and it should be delivered before the end of 2018. If it wasn't, probably 40/60 that I would have cancelled my order and waited for the SR and only add AWD, even if the Federal Rebate went to zero. Problem for me was figuring out which options would be tied further down the road as Tesla releases more configuration options (i.e. Can I get SR without PUP but still with AWD, etc.)
as much as I want the 3p its hard to justify the cost, free supercharging I figured would take me 10 years to recoup the cost...every .1 sec is $1000, its almost crazy im considering it
Get it get it!!!!!as much as I want the 3p its hard to justify the cost, free supercharging I figured would take me 10 years to recoup the cost...every .1 sec is $1000, its almost crazy im considering it
Brenzo
Member
I already told my wife DO NOT let me try and talk myself into keeping my order if my car is not delivered in the October-December time frame.
Is losing $3,750 in federal tax credits a dealbreaker? Well, not necessarily, but that amount would cover items like destination/doc fees, any difference between trade-in value and remaining loan amount on current vehicle, the cost to upgrade electrical, all the accessories (wireless phone charging, floor mats, etc.) and/or cosmetic upgrades (tins, chrome delete, etc.)
I currently have a lower monthly payment (even with gas spend factored in), but I'm stuck in a significantly less fun-to-drive car that I only switched to because my prior vehicle lease was up and the Model 3 was nowhere near being ready. I drive 65 miles round trip every day and after a year of bitching about the fact that my car is no fun and how I hate that I have to fill up with gas almost twice per week, my wife has been somewhat supportive of my Tesla purchase.
My one caveat was that if I do cancel, I'm taking the deposit and putting it into a separate savings/investment account and will be making monthly contributions with the goal of getting a Model Y or possibly an S or X depending on my family / financial situation a year or two from now.
Is losing $3,750 in federal tax credits a dealbreaker? Well, not necessarily, but that amount would cover items like destination/doc fees, any difference between trade-in value and remaining loan amount on current vehicle, the cost to upgrade electrical, all the accessories (wireless phone charging, floor mats, etc.) and/or cosmetic upgrades (tins, chrome delete, etc.)
I currently have a lower monthly payment (even with gas spend factored in), but I'm stuck in a significantly less fun-to-drive car that I only switched to because my prior vehicle lease was up and the Model 3 was nowhere near being ready. I drive 65 miles round trip every day and after a year of bitching about the fact that my car is no fun and how I hate that I have to fill up with gas almost twice per week, my wife has been somewhat supportive of my Tesla purchase.
My one caveat was that if I do cancel, I'm taking the deposit and putting it into a separate savings/investment account and will be making monthly contributions with the goal of getting a Model Y or possibly an S or X depending on my family / financial situation a year or two from now.
as much as I want the 3p its hard to justify the cost, free supercharging I figured would take me 10 years to recoup the cost...every .1 sec is $1000, its almost crazy im considering it
Holding period matters..
First 0-60 launch is 10,000 each
Second 0-60 launch is 5,000 each
Third 0-60 launch is 3,333 each
...
Will go down to about 50 cents each in 5 years.
You've significantly understated "less fun-to-drive car"
I have almost talked myself into changing from an AWD to a P, and removing EAP and FSD. That would essentially make the car cost the same as it does now (No $5000 Performance Upgrade). My thinking is that I can buy EAP after purchase, once my budget has recovered, and only eat $1000, but I can't upgrade to performance later on.
I spoke to Tesla's support people the other day, and they told me that if I were to upgrade I would not have to pay for anything I didn't change, and because my original order was placed in June I would still get the enhanced connectivity for life and free supercharging.
But I don't want to risk getting pushed out to January or beyond. Every day I hesitate I risk having a VIN assigned. I am assuming they won't allow me to change my order once I have a VIN.
I spoke to Tesla's support people the other day, and they told me that if I were to upgrade I would not have to pay for anything I didn't change, and because my original order was placed in June I would still get the enhanced connectivity for life and free supercharging.
But I don't want to risk getting pushed out to January or beyond. Every day I hesitate I risk having a VIN assigned. I am assuming they won't allow me to change my order once I have a VIN.
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