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Would you swap M3LR RWD for Performance Version if you could?

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Just returned from local Tesla store. My trade value is about $43K. That level isn't unreasonable, net of rebate, but makes it difficult to decide. They located three M3 Performance cars that I can definitely get by the end of the year. Still debating what to do. Frankly, it made me appreciate again the fun that the standard LR RWD provides. Yes, the value of the Performance version is very high, but the question for me is whether or not I'll use that extra performance. Unfortunately there isn't a demo car available to compare to my RWD.

Which model and how many miles do you have ?
Curious what our LR RWD with 2800 miles would trade in for.

I am going to cal Tesla right now re. this :) In CA, you can basically get the $10000 twice, $7500 fed + $2500 state ?

Edit —-

Sales tax sort of kills this no? Since you have to pay twice.

We paid $51000 + $4000 tax = $56000 for our white LR RWD (no eap) and will receive $7500+$2500 back. $46,000 net cost.

If we can trade in for $46000, and buy a new P for $66000 + tax = $71000. $71000 - $46000 - $10000 = $15000 OOP for the upgrade. At $15000, it’s not worth it to me. At <$7k I would do it immediately.
 
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I was actually thinking about doing the opposite.

Sell my 3P+ for a LR RWD.

Why? Because I like to see how efficient I can drive. It's like a game and I have a lot of fun doing it. (I got 715 miles on one tank of gas on my 2013 Honda Accord). Anyone can drive fast, but driving efficiently requires a different set of skills.

The 3P+ (as many owners have experienced and documented on this forum) is an energy hog, even when trying to drive it very conservatively. In cold weather, the energy usage is even higher and makes the range terrible.

But then I tested the LR RWD a few days ago, and I think I will keep my 3P+.
The LR RWD definitely feels lighter on it's feet, quicker to turn in, smaller turning circle, but it feels so slow, even though I know it's not.
 
Thanks for the helpful info and suggestions. A question: On the Tesla website the Dual Motor Performance AWD 3.3 second acceleration M3 shows a price of $64,000 without EAP and only standard features (black, Deluxe interior). Is that the same configuration of the older order page M3P+ M3? I recall reading a review by Dan Neil for the M3 Performance version that listed at $78,000. It seems hard to believe that the car Dan Neil reviewed at $78K (including EAP and FSD) is now available for $64K. That is my major attraction to upgrading right now before the tax rebate changes. I don't need/want EAP or FSD (no longer offered), so getting the performance of the M3 at a discounted price seems like a great deal.

I was also thinking that I could sell my car for $46K or so (about what I paid for it net of the tax credit), and just order a new M3 Performance for delivery this year. I would get two $7500 rebates, and maybe fall a bit short of applying both fully, but that would still likely be less than the loss of trading it to Tesla. I believe you can apply two EV rebates, according to the government website, so I'm just trying to be sure that if I do move ahead I fully understand the economics of the decision, as well as confirming that the Performance car currently available on the Tesla website at $64K is indeed the current version of the Performance M3 Dan Neil reviewed without EAP and FSD capability.

In terms of driving, I fully appreciate that the Performance car is overkill for daily driving, and there is indeed a difference in running costs and potentially driver comfort, but at $15K or so in upgrade cost that is a lot more car for not a lot more money. I hope that clarifies my logic - what there is of it in considering reselling a one month old car.

Maybe this was said already as I did not get to the end of the thread but I just bought a Model 3 P and took delivery on 12/5.

The car reviewed for 78K is not 64k. The model 3 is 64k without autopilot and in black. Adding a color adds between 1000-2500 depending on which color. and EAP is 5k. They dont even offer FSD right now through the order portal, you would have to order it off menu, or add it after.

Unless you have no plan on getting EAP or only plan on getting black, the model 3P is not 64.6k Mine without FSD was 70,500, not counting the 1200 destination and document fee.
 
Which model and how many miles do you have ?
Curious what our LR RWD with 2800 miles would trade in for.

I am going to cal Tesla right now re. this :) In CA, you can basically get the $10000 twice, $7500 fed + $2500 state ?

Edit —-

Sales tax sort of kills this no? Since you have to pay twice.

We paid $51000 + $4000 tax = $56000 for our white LR RWD (no eap) and will receive $7500+$2500 back. $46,000 net cost.

If we can trade in for $46000, and buy a new P for $66000 + tax = $71000. $71000 - $46000 - $10000 = $15000 OOP for the upgrade. At $15000, it’s not worth it to me. At <$7k I would do it immediately.

One other thing, for the $2,500 California CVRP, you need to maintain ownership for 30 consecutive months, if you sell your car, you need to return the rebate.
 
Which model and how many miles do you have ?
Curious what our LR RWD with 2800 miles would trade in for.

I am going to cal Tesla right now re. this :) In CA, you can basically get the $10000 twice, $7500 fed + $2500 state ?

Edit —-

Sales tax sort of kills this no? Since you have to pay twice.

We paid $51000 + $4000 tax = $56000 for our white LR RWD (no eap) and will receive $7500+$2500 back. $46,000 net cost.

If we can trade in for $46000, and buy a new P for $66000 + tax = $71000. $71000 - $46000 - $10000 = $15000 OOP for the upgrade. At $15000, it’s not worth it to me. At <$7k I would do it immediately.

Not sure how it is on your state. But most places you subtract the trade price from the new car price and you pay tax on the difference. If you sell old car on your own you pay full tax.
 
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Not sure how it is on your state. But most places you subtract the trade price from the new car price and you pay tax on the difference. If you sell old car on your own you pay full tax.

These states (and DC) don't have trade-in offset:

California
District of Columbia
Hawaii
Kentucky
Maryland
Michigan
Montana
Virginia
 
Although I went with MR, I was considering AWD and performance is (barely) affordable for me. The biggest factors against it were the increased long-term maintenance and repair needs, especially with tires and higher fuel costs. AWD/RWD are a lot better on that front.

Plus as I found out after taking MR delivery, even the slow version is more than enough power for my daily needs.
 
If they'd do what you ask (take your RWD and $14,000 cash and give you a P3D) then sure, that's a no brainer (assuming you have enough tax liability to get a second $7500 credit)

Yep, you will definitely not get your purchase price back from selling your used model 3 regardless of the mileage. I'm not sure he will qualify for both tax credits if he does not keep both vehicles.
 
Why? Because I like to see how efficient I can drive. It's like a game and I have a lot of fun doing it. (I got 715 miles on one tank of gas on my 2013 Honda Accord). Anyone can drive fast, but driving efficiently requires a different set of skills.

I agree with you completely. I started to "hyper mile" back in 2013 when I leased a Honda Fit EV and I still see how far I can go on battery alone in our 2016 Volt. Learning to drive efficiently was important when the range of our Leaf and Fit EV was about 80 miles or less.
 
I'm not sure he will qualify for both tax credits if he does not keep both vehicles.

He will- there's no requirement to still own the vehicle when you file for the credit- you just have to have bought it originally "intending" to keep it- which it sounds like the OP did.

Only catch would be if he had less than 15k in tax liability for the year he wouldn't be able to use the full value of both credits.
 
Nope,
My wife drives our April ‘18 M3 LR RWD.
It has tremendous range (310 miles) for the price, especially when compared to my car which is a 2018 MS 100D (335 miles)
Seems like owners of all other Model 3 configurations are achieving less range.
It’s a perfect 2nd car for us.
I might feel different if our other car was an ice car.
We were initially waiting for AWD. However we’re in Washington State where there was a sales tax exemption for the first $32,000 of our purchase that was about to go away, so we pulled the trigger in time to get a saving of around $2,800
Our early purchase also got us free lifetime internet services for the car as well.
It’s a great car! She loves it! No regrets.
 
One other thing, for the $2,500 California CVRP, you need to maintain ownership for 30 consecutive months, if you sell your car, you need to return the rebate.

I called CVRP to resolve a similar situation last year and learned that here are some nuances to this.

1. You only have to return a pro-rated portion. If you get rid of the car in 6 months, for example, you’d have to repay them a prorated amount for 24 months (that is 30 months you are supposed to keep minus 6 months you kept).
2. If you replace a car while you are still in the 30 month period, they let you “transfer” the original rebate to the new car to avoid the refund and reapplication process.

The other thing to know is that a person is allowed only a total of two rebates for vehicles purchased or leased after Jan 1, 2015.
 
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Thanks again for the comments - all are appreciated.

So I made another visit to the Tesla store, did some more research, and found out/confirmed several things:

1) You are not limited to one Federal $7,500 tax credit - you can buy multiple cars and get multiple credits. You also don't have a "holding period" to get the deduction. Once you title the car in your name and the VIN is recorded you are eligible for the rebate. So, I can buy two M3s this year and get two full $7500 tax credits. If you resell the car you don't have to return the tax credit - it's yours regardless of how long you owned the car, as long as it was titled to you, not leased.

2) I won't necessarily take a loss on my initial M3 sale. I live in NC, and my "all in cost" including transportation, state taxes and fees, is roughy $53,350. (The RWD version was $4-5K less than the AWD version and was only offered for a short time. I did order the 19"wheels. I was fortunate to get it as I prefer RWD). So, if I subtract the $7,500 tax credit my net cost on the M3LR RWD is $45,850. Given that the tax credit drops to $3,750 on January 1, I don't think it will be too hard to get $46K for my 5 week old M3 RWD LR with under 2,000 miles on it. The least expensive LR M3 is currently $54K without any upgrades beyond the Deluxe Interior and LR battery options. Compared to my "all in cost" of $45,850 that's a trade in loss of $1,560 - not bad at all. If that's what Tesla is offering, I'm even more comfortable getting $46K in a private sale.

3) jjrandorin posted that the $64K car that I'm considering isn't the same as the $78K car that Dan Neil tested for the Wall Street Journal. He's correct, but for me that's the configuration I prefer. I tried the EAP on my M3 as a trial, and found that, for me, I prefer to drive myself. So that isn't a major sacrifice for me. Nor is not have FSD on order - again I prefer to drive my car myself. Tesla also lowered the price of the Performance version by $5,000, a major advantage from my point of view. I also like the black color car, and wouldn't need/want to pay for an upgraded color. The Tesla store offered me ~$43K on trade for my M3. In NC the trade value is deducted from the purchase price of the new car you're buying, so a $43K trade is worth $44,290 (including 3% sales tax credit) against the price of the new M3 Performance.

I'm not saying that this is the thing to do for everyone, but I am seriously considering it. When I read Dan Neil's original review I was intrigued, but at $78,000 compared to my car's $50,500 list price (RWD - AWD wasn't available when I ordered) I didn't think the Performance model was worth the upgraded cost. Taking out options I don't need/want (at last now) I can get a M3 Performance that would likely outperform my prior BMW M3, add AWD that I don't currently have on my M3, and do that for about $14-15K more than I paid for a M3 RWD LR. That's quite a step up in features/performance, and about half of difference compared to what Dan Neil's version of the same car cost during his test (yes, with more features/options).

Finally, the local Tesla store found a "stripper" black Performance equipped as I would like that's within 500 miles of where I live - I just have to go get it if I place my order. I am seriously considering it, with some caveats:

1) I'm a senior citizen, and although I've owned and enjoyed many sports cars over the years (including some "high end" marques), I can count on one hand the number of times I've exceeded the posted speed limit by more than 10 MPH in the last few years. I haven't approached high speed in my M3, having a car with a 155MPH top end seems like overkill. My logical self is saying "Put the extra money into your grandchildren's 529 plan". The emotional part of me is saying "You're arguing about money with yourself - money you have, it's time you don't have. If you don't do it now you won't ever do it. 'Just Do It' and don't worry about the outcome." Guilt, it's quite powerful....

2) I do enjoy the "Zen" of an EV, having owned a Leaf and 2 BMW i3s (one pure BEV, one with the REX engine). In all three cars performance wasn't what I bought the car to do - I enjoyed the serenity and fun of trying to hyper-mile. The mileage penalty and higher upkeep on the Performance is something to consider, but frankly compared to other performance cars I've owned in the past the Tesla M3 Performance is relatively cheap to own/maintain. The Performance M3 takes a different approach on the Zen front, one that I've done in the past and enjoyed, but maybe not so much now as an AARP carrying Senior. 0-60 in 3.5 seconds is fun, but not something likely to occur on a regular basis in a mid sized city where I live.

3) Frankly, I've been driving my M3 RWD with a newfound level of appreciation. I've always preferred RWD cars, and while I appreciate the performance of AWD cars, for me, the extra weight on the front axle is obvious and takes away some of the everyday driving fun, especially when using the Tesla's instant on torque in city traffic. I can dart from lane to lane pretty aggressively with the RWD car. I'm sure the AWD can as well, but for my intended use I don't know that there is a major advantage to AWD in everyday driving. On the other hand, we do get some snow/ice over the winter (had an unusual 6" snow last week - largest pre-winter snow in 40 years) and the AWD would be useful. Unfortunately the 20" summer spec tires on the Performance car negate a good portion of the AWD. My street is hilly and ices often. AWD is helpful, but summer tires are not at all useful in that weather. The All Season tires on the RWD M3 serve me well year round in my climate.

It's decision time - the Tesla store sales rep told me that I can have the car this week if I commit immediately, but that car could sell at any time if I hesitate. (I don't think he's exaggerating - there is only one car in stock equipped as I would like).

So, given everything I've written, what would you do? Thanks again for the handholding and very useful comments. It's a difficult decision, but one that has to be made quickly.
 
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My gut reaction would be to say yes, I'd love to swap out my LR RWD for a performance version, but the logical side of me always overrides it for the following:

- LR is more energy efficient overall
- Aero 18" wheels take bumps better and are more energy efficient
- I have the premium internet package for the life of the car

So yeah, I'd keep my current car. For now.