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WTB: NVX Subwoofer kit
- Thread starter TheCharlesChen
- Start date
glewis83186
Member
Been wondering why they've been sold out this long? Since June I've noticed. I'm in the same boat bro
glewis83186
Member
I thought they were sold out as well?....I'm sitting over here like wow, whats the hold up with the manufacturing process.
Nah, BADesignWorks has stock. They just had a halloween sale, but if you email them and mention TMC forums, you can get a 15% off discount.
glewis83186
Member
They still have a sale going on. Think I may jump on it. Have you bought this system yet? I don't live near there shop its a 3 plus hour drive for me.
I decided to buy a 10" rockford fosgate powered subwoofer box. It fits in the trunk well and provides plenty of bass for my for <$200.
Here's what I installed:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...e=UTF8&qid=1541609062&sr=8-1&keywords=p300-10
Don't get the 12", it doesn't fit in the trunk well.
glewis83186
Member
Would you mind sharing your experience so far? How bad was the install and how did you run the wiring? I'm considering exactly this sub. Thanks!
Wiring wasn’t bad at all! No harder than wiring my truck or The last three cars I owned. I think Tesla owners generally has more money than hands on skills for these kinds of mundane tasks and tend to pay for this kind of work. You can wire it all in less than 3 hours.
The trickiest part is running the wires from the sides of the backseat to the trunk. It’s easier with fish tape. I got a wire fishing rod for harbor freight for $8 that did the job. Shove the fishing tape through the paneling and duct tape the wire and yank it through. Follow TeslaTap instructions. Sub-woofer and Amplifier Installation | TeslaTap Google is your friend.
Oh and as far as experience, I’m so impresssed with this sub! I ran the audio lines off the front speakers and it kicks so much I have to set the Bass to 7 instead of max 10 or 11. I also have the sub box tuned to the center of the knob instead of max. It overall produces too much bass, so I have everything tuned to about 50%. The problem with tuning is that someone has to be sitting in the front seat with the doors closed or else the car “dims” the sound with the door open or turns off the car if you shut the door with no one in the seat. So have your friend, wife, or gf, sit in the front seat while you adjust the sub from the trunk until you get just the right amount of bass.
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
I'm very interested in one of these and have experience doing my own 12v audio installs. I was researching and someone mentioned quick disconnect cables to remove for track days or luggage space. Does this include the power, ground & remote turn-on wiring? Also, does the stock system have an RCA output or did you have to run a hi/low converter to get power for this?
More details and any photos you have would be appreciated as this seems like the perfect way to add more sound on a budget as compared to some of the fancy pre-packaged alternatives more Tesla owners go with. I'm not looking for fancy, just more sound and something that I can easily remove for when we go on long road trips and want to sleep in the back.
Which brings me to another question; think the sub box will fit in the lower hatch storage area when not in use? That would be ideal for our needs as that's where we keep pillows and the air mattress normally but when we sleep in it we could unplug the sub, drop it down there after we take the bedding out.
ETA: It looks like it does not include a wire kit but some reviews say you can use a 10AWG amp kit which will supply plenty of juice for the amp (dual 10A fuses for a total of 20A max) also has a setting to remotely turn on/off based on audio/voltage presence like home powered subwoofers so no remote turn-on needed. It looks like you attach the power & ground to a harness that plugs into the side along with a separate speaker input harness making for quick removal which is something else I was looking for. The fact that the positive wire is safe when you unplug it to avoid grounding out is a definite bonus for quick detach.
More details and any photos you have would be appreciated as this seems like the perfect way to add more sound on a budget as compared to some of the fancy pre-packaged alternatives more Tesla owners go with. I'm not looking for fancy, just more sound and something that I can easily remove for when we go on long road trips and want to sleep in the back.
Which brings me to another question; think the sub box will fit in the lower hatch storage area when not in use? That would be ideal for our needs as that's where we keep pillows and the air mattress normally but when we sleep in it we could unplug the sub, drop it down there after we take the bedding out.
ETA: It looks like it does not include a wire kit but some reviews say you can use a 10AWG amp kit which will supply plenty of juice for the amp (dual 10A fuses for a total of 20A max) also has a setting to remotely turn on/off based on audio/voltage presence like home powered subwoofers so no remote turn-on needed. It looks like you attach the power & ground to a harness that plugs into the side along with a separate speaker input harness making for quick removal which is something else I was looking for. The fact that the positive wire is safe when you unplug it to avoid grounding out is a definite bonus for quick detach.
Last edited:
It has a quick disconnect from battery in the form of a plug that the battery + and ground - screw into.
It has no wiring. Buy a minimum 8 gauge wiring kit.
The 10" unit fits in the "well", which you are calling the lower hatch, of the trunk so you don't even see it. The "pockets" on either side of the well allow air to pass through which makes a great bass resonator.
Overall the sound system is decent after you add the subwoofer. My only last complaint is the rear door speakers. They are garbage... need to balance about 20-30% more bass and volume from those rear doors. I do this by moving the speaker balance to just behind the center console in front of the rear seat.
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
So you actually installed yours down in there. Good to know it fits and maybe that makes more sense than moving it around the way I'm thinking. I'll have to give that some thought.
You installed it yourself, right? What parts did you need to purchase? This sub/amp, hi/low converter, amp kit (power from front of car to back, ground of a few feet to hit that bolt on the driver's side of the hatch under the carpet near the wheel well and RCAs from front dash area where you pick up front speaker wires to back is about all that's needed) anything else? What hi/low did you go with?
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
Just another bump to ask a couple new install questions and answer some of my own questions from above after additional research.
First to the OP:
You mentioned having a helper sit in the front driver's seat with the door closed to tune while you adjust back at the box so I was hoping you can share your final settings so that I can get pretty close out of the gate with minor tweaks necessary for tuning afterwards. I assume you tuned with the remote knob set to 50% so you can increase and decrease as necessary from your base setting up or down on the fly? What was your gain set at roughly for a percentage (or clock if min is 7:00 and max is 5:00)? What % did you find to be the best setting for the crossover adjustment? Guessing that one is around 50% somewhere or around 80Hz? Did you leave the Bass Boost at 0 on the box or did you increase that at all? Looks like the max setting is 12dB.
The other settings are just Phase (0 for most applications) input level (hi if tying into speaker wires directly of course) and auto turn-on (which I've read that either DC Offset or audio can be used but the better choice is probably audio for a hi level input) for anyone else interested in installing one of these w/o doing tons of additional research.
I'll numerate to make the response easier (question marks are the ones I'd like your input on)
1) Gain (%?)
2) X-Over (50%?)
3) Bass Boost (0%?)
4) Phase (0)
5) Input Level (Hi)
6) Auto Turn On (Audio)
I have everything on-hand & I'm going to start install here in a couple of hours so if you have enough time to address just 1-3 above that would be ideal to get me going.
Up next to answer some of my own questions for anyone else looking to do this install:
I discovered that other than an amp kit (power wire, ground wire, speaker wire and connectors) you don't need anything else to install this P300-10 (or 12 for that matter) sub/amp combo. No remote turn-on wire and no RCAs. Just tap left & right factory speakers (easiest is the fronts since you'll be working under the front kick panels anyway) and run speaker wire to the rear where the box is, cut the RCAs off of the included harness and attach the front L/R neg/pos wires to that little fella. Run your power and your ground and you're good to go. Looks like there's a convenient spot to ground under the carpet in the rear next to the driver's side wheel arch. Remove bolt, grind off paint and bolt up.
Thanks!
First to the OP:
You mentioned having a helper sit in the front driver's seat with the door closed to tune while you adjust back at the box so I was hoping you can share your final settings so that I can get pretty close out of the gate with minor tweaks necessary for tuning afterwards. I assume you tuned with the remote knob set to 50% so you can increase and decrease as necessary from your base setting up or down on the fly? What was your gain set at roughly for a percentage (or clock if min is 7:00 and max is 5:00)? What % did you find to be the best setting for the crossover adjustment? Guessing that one is around 50% somewhere or around 80Hz? Did you leave the Bass Boost at 0 on the box or did you increase that at all? Looks like the max setting is 12dB.
The other settings are just Phase (0 for most applications) input level (hi if tying into speaker wires directly of course) and auto turn-on (which I've read that either DC Offset or audio can be used but the better choice is probably audio for a hi level input) for anyone else interested in installing one of these w/o doing tons of additional research.
I'll numerate to make the response easier (question marks are the ones I'd like your input on)
1) Gain (%?)
2) X-Over (50%?)
3) Bass Boost (0%?)
4) Phase (0)
5) Input Level (Hi)
6) Auto Turn On (Audio)
I have everything on-hand & I'm going to start install here in a couple of hours so if you have enough time to address just 1-3 above that would be ideal to get me going.
Up next to answer some of my own questions for anyone else looking to do this install:
I discovered that other than an amp kit (power wire, ground wire, speaker wire and connectors) you don't need anything else to install this P300-10 (or 12 for that matter) sub/amp combo. No remote turn-on wire and no RCAs. Just tap left & right factory speakers (easiest is the fronts since you'll be working under the front kick panels anyway) and run speaker wire to the rear where the box is, cut the RCAs off of the included harness and attach the front L/R neg/pos wires to that little fella. Run your power and your ground and you're good to go. Looks like there's a convenient spot to ground under the carpet in the rear next to the driver's side wheel arch. Remove bolt, grind off paint and bolt up.
Thanks!
EVS Motors
Former Vendor
If anyone is still interested in the NVX Audio Boost kit, I'm getting 10 in very soon. PM me for special pricing. 2 of the 10 are already been paid for.
This is an old thread but I found it through search and hoping to get an update. I had the P300-10 in my previous car for 8 years and it was amazing for it's size and cost. You installed this in a Model S right? I'll be installing in a 2018 Model 3 LR AWD so I don't think I'll be able to take advantage of any of your settings since it's a totally different car. I have the premium system so I'll be tapping directly into the output of the factory subwoofer amp on the right side of the trunk. That will eliminate the need to run speaker wires from front to back and also should give a strong hi-level signal. I'll keep the factory sub and run the P300-10 to supplement it. 12V and GND can both be found under the back seat at the DC-DC converter. There are a number of threads on here for how to connect it here at the "penthouse" in the Model 3. It's really amazing that those connections are there! In my previous setup I used the "DC Offset" setting for turn-on, as the "Audio" setting would sometimes turn on when I didn't want it to. For instance, did you know that shutting your doors can cause your speakers to move due to the air pressure in the car? That creates a momentary voltage that was enough to trick the system into turning on. "DC Offset" sets a 6V threshold so that inadvertent voltages like that don't turn on the system, only a real audio signal will. But yes having everything included in one box and only having to supply power and signal is awesome, you really can't get any easier.
Has anyone successfully installed the P300-10 or the P300-12 in the sub-trunk of the Model 3? By dimensions it appears like the P300-12 "might" just fit in there, but it would be tight. The P300-10 would definitely fit. Thanks!
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