Which LEDs did you use?
I installed something like these in my girls' car, and they do well:
And I strongly advise not to get LEDs like this, they go wrong very quickly:
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Which LEDs did you use?
I installed something like these in my girls' car, and they do well:
And I strongly advise not to get LEDs like this, they go wrong very quickly:
The kit I used was pretty similar -- this one specifically. This was after I'd installed the updated optics from the Refit Source, so I went with the H1 base that the updated optics used.
I posted a review of them, which you can read if you're curious.
My biggest concern if I've yet to see a set of modules I felt had adequate heat sinking, the fans used are never designed for damp or wet applications. Beyond that, most of the modules I've looked (Amazon, eBay, AliExpress) claim first class LED (Luxeon, Cree, etc) manufacturers -- and will even show photos of units with them installed, but what you end up with are almost always knock offs.
The power supplies are likely the best designed bits, and as far as I can tell all come from a single reference design or manufacturer, regardless of the branding on the packaging.
I posted a review of them, which you can read if you're curious.
My biggest concern if I've yet to see a set of modules I felt had adequate heat sinking, the fans used are never designed for damp or wet applications. Beyond that, most of the modules I've looked (Amazon, eBay, AliExpress) claim first class LED (Luxeon, Cree, etc) manufacturers -- and will even show photos of units with them installed, but what you end up with are almost always knock offs.
The power supplies are likely the best designed bits, and as far as I can tell all come from a single reference design or manufacturer, regardless of the branding on the packaging.
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HID headlights
The other headlight thread has gotten too long, so I'm starting a new one. The OEM halogen lights are feable, and at $3k installed, the TMC are too expensive. Especially if you consider retrofitting options go for less than a third of that. When mine started to peel, like so many others, I started exploring other options. I called Villa Park, IL service. Since they should be replaced under warranty, I wanted to see if they would let me pay the difference in cost between the halogen and HID.
My first couple phone calls were'nt very productive. I was told they'd check, and then I wouldn't hear back. When I did get a response, I was told they aren't covered under the ESA. Weird since I'm still under the 37 mo/37k mi CPO? Another couple phone calls, and then i was told they'd, "...install the HID lights, as they didn't make the halogen anymore. We have a loaner available, when can you bring it in?"!!!
So I'm sitting in a 2015 MS typing this. The S is a sweet ride! Definitely my next vehicle. But I miss my roadster and can't wait to see how the headlights look.
The other headlight thread has gotten too long, so I'm starting a new one. The OEM halogen lights are feable, and at $3k installed, the TMC are too expensive. Especially if you consider retrofitting options go for less than a third of that. When mine started to peel, like so many others, I started exploring other options. I called Villa Park, IL service. Since they should be replaced under warranty, I wanted to see if they would let me pay the difference in cost between the halogen and HID.
My first couple phone calls were'nt very productive. I was told they'd check, and then I wouldn't hear back. When I did get a response, I was told they aren't covered under the ESA. Weird since I'm still under the 37 mo/37k mi CPO? Another couple phone calls, and then i was told they'd, "...install the HID lights, as they didn't make the halogen anymore. We have a loaner available, when can you bring it in?"!!!
So I'm sitting in a 2015 MS typing this. The S is a sweet ride! Definitely my next vehicle. But I miss my roadster and can't wait to see how the headlights look.
Well congratulations on your free HID upgrade (if I've understood your post correctly) 
They are so - almost beyond comparison - much better that the Halogen ones that you'll probably fall in love with them immediately.
As to missing the roadster, even driving a great car like the MS, I totally know where you're coming from and have felt the same way!
They are so - almost beyond comparison - much better that the Halogen ones that you'll probably fall in love with them immediately. As to missing the roadster, even driving a great car like the MS, I totally know where you're coming from and have felt the same way!
Oh well, mods moved it there anyway. Page 35, post #344 it is! :redface:
Thanks GV. Yes, I got "free" HID upgrade headlights!
Can anyone recommend a good LED H9B kit to try in the main beam lens and, are they anything like as good as current HIDs? Am I just fooling myself into thinking they could be an alternative? Thanks.
wiztecy
Active Member
As with any headlight upgrade done properly, you need to also upgrade the headlight projectors to accompany the bulb technology change. The projectors were designed to work with a particular technology, you end up compromising the focus and distance of the light coverage if you don't and end up doing light scatter rather than light focus where you want it. Proper lighting, you want wide coverage in the front of the car as well as some focused distance in front of you that does not affect other drivers with glare which light scattering does (not having proper projectors). Changing the bulb out looks great to the eye but when you compare the coverage of a properly implemented headlight system, its not even close.
Msjulie, just went through a very long process of deciding what to do myself re HID...
I agree with what wiztecy stated re projectors for the absolute best results.
However, I just installed Morimoto XB-35W from TRS into my roadster with stock projectors and was extremely pleased with the light output and beam spread. Deer are a significant collision issue here in NJ and the stock halogen side illumination was just dangerous. The HID upgrade made a huge difference.
HID ignition with the Morimoto is very quick also.
This thread has been of enormous help during the process, and a piece of many member's posts have factored into my installation.
Not enough thanks to give to all.
A few comments that you or someone may find useful.
1. I initially thought about high output halogens... looking at the lumens , they still fall far behind and I was worried about the
increase in heat output. If you want a 10-20% quick upgrade, swap out your bulbs if they are over 5 years old (halogens degrade
due to poor quality redeposition of the filament over time). I did initially. It helped a tiny bit, but those deer were still difficult to see..
2. I went with Morimoto. The newer XB 's are really well built, and a great deal for the money. More expensive than most, but
I feel it was worth it. Still a lot cheaper than going with an Osram etc. ballast. I believe (but could be wrong) , that TRS utilized Morimoto's in wiztecy's projector build. 35W was plenty, again worried about heat with 55W (although original bulb was 60W.
3. You need CANBUS adapter. I tried running it without and received low beam bulb error.
4. Someone in this thread (thank you!) had a great idea about tucking the ballast (non Morimoto) under/ to the side of the front fan shroud by the headlight pod. It was a PERFECT spot. I just added a small immobilizer so no mechanical movement and it was easy to find a spot for the ignitor and the CANBUS adapter also. I can post a picture. Not sure if heat will be an issue, I don't believe it will, we'll see.
5. No need to back out adjusting screws due to an oversized o-ring. The bulb fit perfectly.
6. I was about to pull the wheel for the HID install but noticed if you just jack the car from the rear jack location, there is enough front suspension travel to easily perform the entire job without taking the wheel off. The front wheel was still on the ground. Jacking (hockey puck on low profile jack) gave about 3-4 more inches. You should use jack stands for ultimate safety. Of course, always be sure to jack at posted jacking points. Earlier, I replaced the stock hologen low beams without any jack, a little tight but it can be done especially in a tight pinch if you blow a bulb. I'm 6' and was still able to squeeze in there.
7. Watch your connection from the ignitor to the bulb. Match black wire to black. Don't rely on the connector, it is possible to connect and reverse polarity by accident.
Just do the HID upgrade if you drive at night, you will not regret it.
Now if only the brakes were good enough to stop for the deer I can now see...
I agree with what wiztecy stated re projectors for the absolute best results.
However, I just installed Morimoto XB-35W from TRS into my roadster with stock projectors and was extremely pleased with the light output and beam spread. Deer are a significant collision issue here in NJ and the stock halogen side illumination was just dangerous. The HID upgrade made a huge difference.
HID ignition with the Morimoto is very quick also.
This thread has been of enormous help during the process, and a piece of many member's posts have factored into my installation.
Not enough thanks to give to all.
A few comments that you or someone may find useful.
1. I initially thought about high output halogens... looking at the lumens , they still fall far behind and I was worried about the
increase in heat output. If you want a 10-20% quick upgrade, swap out your bulbs if they are over 5 years old (halogens degrade
due to poor quality redeposition of the filament over time). I did initially. It helped a tiny bit, but those deer were still difficult to see..
2. I went with Morimoto. The newer XB 's are really well built, and a great deal for the money. More expensive than most, but
I feel it was worth it. Still a lot cheaper than going with an Osram etc. ballast. I believe (but could be wrong) , that TRS utilized Morimoto's in wiztecy's projector build. 35W was plenty, again worried about heat with 55W (although original bulb was 60W.
3. You need CANBUS adapter. I tried running it without and received low beam bulb error.
4. Someone in this thread (thank you!) had a great idea about tucking the ballast (non Morimoto) under/ to the side of the front fan shroud by the headlight pod. It was a PERFECT spot. I just added a small immobilizer so no mechanical movement and it was easy to find a spot for the ignitor and the CANBUS adapter also. I can post a picture. Not sure if heat will be an issue, I don't believe it will, we'll see.
5. No need to back out adjusting screws due to an oversized o-ring. The bulb fit perfectly.
6. I was about to pull the wheel for the HID install but noticed if you just jack the car from the rear jack location, there is enough front suspension travel to easily perform the entire job without taking the wheel off. The front wheel was still on the ground. Jacking (hockey puck on low profile jack) gave about 3-4 more inches. You should use jack stands for ultimate safety. Of course, always be sure to jack at posted jacking points. Earlier, I replaced the stock hologen low beams without any jack, a little tight but it can be done especially in a tight pinch if you blow a bulb. I'm 6' and was still able to squeeze in there.
7. Watch your connection from the ignitor to the bulb. Match black wire to black. Don't rely on the connector, it is possible to connect and reverse polarity by accident.
Just do the HID upgrade if you drive at night, you will not regret it.
Now if only the brakes were good enough to stop for the deer I can now see...
thefortunes
Active Member
I did these DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting and am happy with them. Agree, probably not as good as a full projector replacement but significantly better than stock.
Re: brakes I did the Carbotech 1521 http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp. Again, not as good as doing the full rotor replacement but significantly better than stock.
DDM looked like a good option also, especially with all the members that used the system with good results. Carbotech (1521 or A6) is next project along with a dashcam with monitor so I can also use it to see the traffic lights. After over a year positioning myself strategically in front of the traffic light is really losing its charm...
This is what you need:
LightInSight - Windshield Mounted Traffic Light Lens
I put them in my Roadster, and now I can see traffic lights even when pulled up close.
I can't really take credit—I found it because someone else on TMC recommended them! Just like the side mirrors that keep my blind spots clear! It is a great community here.
ExtendView Mirrors (TM)
Now if I could only get Tesla to bring back their added soundproofing and door sill protector upgrade...
DJ
Recently I have noticed my xenon HID lights are not as bright as they once were (official Tesla units).
Turns out this is common with HID lights, after a number of hours of use they produce less and less light (2000 hours use often mentioned). There are replacement HID bulbs that claim to have higher output - see review here
Best HID headlight bulbs 2016
To save me the hassle of removing them to check - does anyone know what type of bulb I should buy (D1S, H3 etc etc)?
Turns out this is common with HID lights, after a number of hours of use they produce less and less light (2000 hours use often mentioned). There are replacement HID bulbs that claim to have higher output - see review here
Best HID headlight bulbs 2016
To save me the hassle of removing them to check - does anyone know what type of bulb I should buy (D1S, H3 etc etc)?
thefortunes
Active Member
The original halogens (and the replacement HID kit I use) are 9005. I "assume" that the Tesla HID are also 9005.
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