XPel, Opticoat etc. alternative for cheapos

[kuttakamina]

As far as not getting xpel ultimate or Suntek. I have seen more then a few Tesla's with as little as 5k miles that have what I consider excessive chips and road rash on the front. Just think what those Tesla's will look like in 20k, 30k and even 50k miles. If you are doing highway miles, I would not go with out it. Around town you should be ok without it.

paintpolisher - what is the #1 cause of rockchips on the freeway? Is it trucks kicking up rocks? Is it garbage/transport trucks flying half their luggage over the road? Don't think normal cars in usual urban areas would cause this issue, or am I wrong?

BTW, don't disagree with you one bit. The only way to protect against rock chips is xpel/suntek.
And the other alternatives are a LOT of work - the detailers definitely earn their keep.
Its just hard to spend another 2-5K after spending so much on the car, and the console, accesories, plug installation etc. etc.

 

[davidc18]

Having the same thoughts. Our Black 70D is approaching 1000 miles. Its my daily commuter so most of the miles are highway miles. Is there anyone here in the weston area that has gone the xpel route. I would love to see the results before making a decision.

 

[chriSharek]

Fun thread and ideas, Kutta. Looking forward to your experiment. cs

 

[Tamar]

p
Its just hard to spend another 2-5K after spending so much on the car, and the console, accesories, plug installation etc. etc.

I was quoted $650 for the starting (minimal) wrap, and $1500 for full hood and other susceptible areas. For $5K I wouldn't do it, but $1500 seems like a no-brainer for the peace of mind. My husband will be doing close to 60 miles of freeway driving 5 days a week.

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Oh, by the way, that's not Xpel, but the comparable 3M product (this being MN, it's the hometown stuff we're considering).

 

[towelie]

I've done all the research I can and have come up with the following system:

1) 2 bucket car wash (grit guards in both buckets) with CG Citrus Gloss and 2 microfiber wash mitts.

2) Dry car with Homelite leaf blower (35 bucks at Home Depot). Wipe off whatever's left with waffle microfiber drying cloth.

3) Clay car with Nanoskin fine grade foam pad using Porter Cable 7424XP (Nanoskin GLI16 used as lubricant).

4) Polish with Glare Professional Polish, using Lake Country White/Orange/Black pads (my car is 2 weeks old, hoping white pad will be enough) and PC 7424XP. First coat to remove swirls, second coat for shine. Maybe a third coat if I'm not satisfied with the first 2.

5)Now here's where I'm confused....is Glare Polish itself good enough to last a few months? Or should I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant as a LSP?

 

[Fluke]

I was quoted $650 for the starting (minimal) wrap, and $1500 for full hood and other susceptible areas. For $5K I wouldn't do it, but $1500 seems like a no-brainer for the peace of mind. My husband will be doing close to 60 miles of freeway driving 5 days a week.

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Oh, by the way, that's not Xpel, but the comparable 3M product (this being MN, it's the hometown stuff we're considering).

I would not assume that all paint protection films are equal. 3M makes some great products, but from the research I've done their paint protection films don't seem to stack up against the competition very well. I've used Suntek, Xpel and Nanofusion on past cars with good results.

 

[peteyswift]

I would not assume that all paint protection films are equal. 3M makes some great products, but from the research I've done their paint protection films don't seem to stack up against the competition very well. I've used Suntek, Xpel and Nanofusion on past cars with good results.

I've had Xpel and now the newest 3M iteration, Pro Series, installed this week. I see no discernible difference in real life between the two so far. As far as research, there are plenty of videos on YouTube comparing this product favorably over Suntek and Xpel.

 

[kuttakamina]

I've had Xpel and now the newest 3M iteration, Pro Series, installed this week. I see no discernible difference in real life between the two so far. As far as research, there are plenty of videos on YouTube comparing this product favorably over Suntek and Xpel.

Do you get that on every car you get? Or would you say such a film is a sensible purchase on a car worth xx$ and above?
I'm seeing this film thing as sunk cost, no recovery at the time of sale. Am I wrong?

 

[peteyswift]

I've had it on everything from a GTI to a minivan and two Teslas. Probably overkill on the minivan but I only did the front bumper on that one, lol. I have always thought it would be annoying to get rock chips on the paint. But, I completely agree that if you go into it accepting the PPF as a sunk cost you will not be disappointed at time of a private sale later on. Having said that, it would be a perk going to the next owner that may clinch that sale.

In the present, the PPF is really for your peace of mind and, actually, may save some money down the road ie avoiding repainting due to scrapes/chips.

 

[Fluke]

I've had Xpel and now the newest 3M iteration, Pro Series, installed this week. I see no discernible difference in real life between the two so far. As far as research, there are plenty of videos on YouTube comparing this product favorably over Suntek and Xpel.

Great! Sounds like 3M have improved their offering. Restating my original post more generically: not all paint protection film is the same and neither are the shops that put it on. Research both the film offered and the shop's reputation, and don't just go in to the closest window tinting shop and accept whatever paint film they happen to offer as a sideline.

 

[Brit4864]

Having the same thoughts. Our Black 70D is approaching 1000 miles. Its my daily commuter so most of the miles are highway miles. Is there anyone here in the weston area that has gone the xpel route. I would love to see the results before making a decision.

Hi. I had a Suntek PPF bra done on my P85D and I'm close to Weston.

 

[jerry33]

Great! Sounds like 3M have improved their offering. Restating my original post more generically: not all paint protection film is the same and neither are the shops that put it on. Research both the film offered and the shop's reputation, and don't just go in to the closest window tinting shop and accept whatever paint film they happen to offer as a sideline.

And the installer is more important than the film unless you're talking extreme cases (really poor film compared to really good film).

 

[davidc18]

Hi. I had a Suntek PPF bra done on my P85D and I'm close to Weston.

PM sent

 

[Brit4864]

No PM from you

 

[Luclyluciano]

I've done all the research I can and have come up with the following system:

1) 2 bucket car wash (grit guards in both buckets) with CG Citrus Gloss and 2 microfiber wash mitts.

2) Dry car with Homelite leaf blower (35 bucks at Home Depot). Wipe off whatever's left with waffle microfiber drying cloth.

3) Clay car with Nanoskin fine grade foam pad using Porter Cable 7424XP (Nanoskin GLI16 used as lubricant).

4) Polish with Glare Professional Polish, using Lake Country White/Orange/Black pads (my car is 2 weeks old, hoping white pad will be enough) and PC 7424XP. First coat to remove swirls, second coat for shine. Maybe a third coat if I'm not satisfied with the first 2.

5)Now here's where I'm confused....is Glare Polish itself good enough to last a few months? Or should I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant as a LSP?

Let's not high jack this thread. The topic is cheap alternatives.

@ towelie;

a polish prepares the paint. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is the actual sealant. Wolfgang has a product call Paint Enhancer which gently prepares the paint, removes some minor scratches and contaminants as well as previous waxes and leaves a beautiful finish. The Paint Enhancer is great to use before the Sealant.

Both products are a dream to use. So easy to apply and remove. Results are phenomenal. Bottle of Sealant is $50. Finish lasts 6-12 months. Two coats really makes the paint POP! Water beads off like crazy making washing the car a breeze.

Having expressed how much I love the Wolfgang product line, I will admit, I am scheduled to have my New P85D C-Quartzed on July 1st.
the detailer is telling me the finish is much more glossier than a freshly Waxed or Opticoated car. This has me intrigued.

 

[pedriscoll]

On my wife's 2 year old Avalon Hybrid, a beautiful car by the way, we had Ziebart apply their Clearshield film bra and their paint protection product. Looks great after 2 years and significantly less expensive. I have an appointment for application on my new Model S for Friday, provided it arrives tomorrow as promised.

 

[sorka]

Clearly the product you linked is Optimum's GlossCoat, not 2.0. They are different products. 2.0 was (its discontinued) still considered a "permanent" coating. GlossCoat is rated 2 years.

The easiest way to wash your car is to use ONR (Optimum's No Rinse) plenty of youtube video's on that.

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As far as not getting xpel ultimate or Suntek. I have seen more then a few Tesla's with as little as 5k miles that have what I consider excessive chips and road rash on the front. Just think what those Tesla's will look like in 20k, 30k and even 50k miles. If you are doing highway miles, I would not go with out it. Around town you should be ok without it.

Gloss coat is the replacement. Opti-coat 2.0 had no warranty at all if you applied it yourself.

Opticoat pro is warrantied for 5 years, but not 2.0.

Gloss-coat can be purchased in the 20 cc syringe for $10 more than the old 2.0 was:

Optimum Gloss Coat 20 cc

Hey, the OP asked for cheap. If he wanted not cheap, he'd pay an applicator for Pro and get the 5 year warranty.

 

[kuttakamina]

Hey, the OP asked for cheap. If he wanted not cheap, he'd pay an applicator for Pro and get the 5 year warranty.

OP doesn't mind education , but I think I'm gonna stick with my original list. Pretty sure my car will look smashing!

 

[davidc18]

No PM from you

tried again. remembered to hit send this time

 

[dcohen]

tried again. remembered to hit send this time

Is there anyone close to Weston that is reasonable on doing a coating.