Your stealth should be an early build 2020. I ordered mine in January 2021. It was $59990 base price which qualified for $2k NY rebate. So if you got yours early before they lowered $1k after. The difference was $3k and that's enough for me to justify to spend that on a set of new wheels with all season.
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Y Performace vs LR?
- Thread starter ConchCruiser
- Start date
Around here, there's always a long wait for appointments around the time that people need to swap winter/summer rubber. Also, the last time I had them dismount/remount my tires, when I was doing a L-R swap/rotation on my uni-directional, staggered setup... When they went to dismount, they placed the hydraulic press in the wrong location, and accidentally ripped the sidewall. They didn't have the tires in stock, so they couldn't fix it the same day. They threw the spare on, an sent me home to come back later... What they didn't tell me was they took out the valve cores of my front tires, but didn't put them back, becuase they never completed the L-R swap on the front wheels. They probably never noticed, because they happened to be runflats... But I sure as hell noticed on the drive home... They ended up replacing all 4 tires for free... But I noticed they replaced my Pilot Sport AS ZP (Runflats) with Pilot Sport AS3 Plus (Non runflats).. At least the AS3+ are not unidirectional, so I can just rotate side to side much easier.
So this is why I tend to only go to the tire store when I absolutely need to... I'll do everything else myself...
SaloonGoon
2020 PD3+ 2021 PDY 2019 AUDI R8P
For me it comes down to economics and wheels. For an extra $8,500 I get lower suspension (that I don't want) spoiler (that I could give to $hits about) bigger brakes (I use regen almost exclusively when driving an EV) giant wheels with low profile tires (that I hate) and around a second faster acceleration than the "normal" MY LR or 0.5 seconds faster than the LR with AB. I would probably go with the AB or aftermarket equivalent, so lets just knock that $8,500 price difference down to $6,500. If I were to trade the 21" wheel and tire package to some sucker (oops, I mean "enthusiast" ) for his Gemini wheels and tires and cash, how much cash would we be talking about? That is 100% what it boils down to for me. Even with the full on MYP it would not be the fastest car I have owned, I had an EVO that I could click off back to back to back 11.5 second 1/4 mile runs in like clockwork, from what I understand the MYP is a high 11 second car at best... but a high 11 in the MYP is better than low 12 for the MY LR with AB 
Keith
Keith
Clark_Kent
Member
That's right. The fastest I've seen is high 11s and traps about 116 mph.For me it comes down to economics and wheels. For an extra $8,500 I get lower suspension (that I don't want) spoiler (that I could give to $hits about) bigger brakes (I use regen almost exclusively when driving an EV) giant wheels with low profile tires (that I hate) and around a second faster acceleration than the "normal" MY LR or 0.5 seconds faster than the LR with AB. I would probably go with the AB or aftermarket equivalent, so lets just knock that $8,500 price difference down to $6,500. If I were to trade the 21" wheel and tire package to some sucker (oops, I mean "enthusiast" ) for his Gemini wheels and tires and cash, how much cash would we be talking about? That is 100% what it boils down to for me. Even with the full on MYP it would not be the fastest car I have owned, I had an EVO that I could click off back to back to back 11.5 second 1/4 mile runs in like clockwork, from what I understand the MYP is a high 11 second car at best... but a high 11 in the MYP is better than low 12 for the MY LR with AB
Keith
ucsdsig
Member
Went into my test drive expecting to order the MYLR. Drove the MYLR and really liked it. Then test drove the MYP and loved it. Can't go wrong either way.
parkds_nyc
Member
I was able to purchase a stealth from the last production run in late August (just after the amber tail light change). So I had the $1k price reduction and the full NYS rebate.
That pretty much sums up why I ended up going with the MY LR. That and no matter what trim you have, the trap speeds are all about the same. So most of the time where I'll be using my car, the LR is about as quick as the MYP (from about 40 mph on up). Look at even the M3 trap speeds they are all very close and all grouped around the 115 mph range. Normally trap speed is a good indicator of HP. I find it odd that most of the tests I've seen have put the trap speeds the same for the MYP and MY LR. Where is the extra 50+ HP going?For me it comes down to economics and wheels. For an extra $8,500 I get lower suspension (that I don't want) spoiler (that I could give to $hits about) bigger brakes (I use regen almost exclusively when driving an EV) giant wheels with low profile tires (that I hate) and around a second faster acceleration than the "normal" MY LR or 0.5 seconds faster than the LR with AB. I would probably go with the AB or aftermarket equivalent, so lets just knock that $8,500 price difference down to $6,500. If I were to trade the 21" wheel and tire package to some sucker (oops, I mean "enthusiast" ) for his Gemini wheels and tires and cash, how much cash would we be talking about? That is 100% what it boils down to for me. Even with the full on MYP it would not be the fastest car I have owned, I had an EVO that I could click off back to back to back 11.5 second 1/4 mile runs in like clockwork, from what I understand the MYP is a high 11 second car at best... but a high 11 in the MYP is better than low 12 for the MY LR with AB
Keith
From the car and driver tests of the 2020 models.
MYP
1/4 mile: 12.1 sec @ 113 mph
MY LR
1/4 mile: 12.7 @ 114 mph
I found this list that some of you might find interesting. A VERY long list of cars and their 1/4 mile times starting with cars in the 7's and up to 29 seconds. Interesting to see where the M3, MY, MS and MX fit in. The times they have listed for some of the Teslas are wrong but I just used the list to compare against the times I know my car is running and the others I've tested.
Quarter 1/4 Mile Car list - List of Road Legal Performance and Classic Production Cars Ordered by Quarter Mile 1/4 Time - Trap Speed List
Quarter Mile 1/4 Car list - List of Road Legal Performance and Classic Production Cars Ordered by Quarter Mile 1/4 Time. Trap speed, Figures, Specs, Information and more.
eleven24
Member
Test drove a P this weekend. Loved it. Ordered LR + induction wheels.
Why? I live near Philly & drive from DC to CT & while I could always get a set of winter wheels for the snow, the potholes live forever. It's worse when it rains and they fill with water and you don't see them. Not that the 20's will be impervious to them, but there's no way the 21's would survive.
Loved the drive of the P along with the look of the red calipers... envious of you warm weather Tesla owners. Although, if the infrastructure bill ever got passed and the roads were repaired along with the EV tax credit. Ahh.. if only.
Why? I live near Philly & drive from DC to CT & while I could always get a set of winter wheels for the snow, the potholes live forever. It's worse when it rains and they fill with water and you don't see them. Not that the 20's will be impervious to them, but there's no way the 21's would survive.
Loved the drive of the P along with the look of the red calipers... envious of you warm weather Tesla owners. Although, if the infrastructure bill ever got passed and the roads were repaired along with the EV tax credit. Ahh.. if only.
Mixman
Member
I am still on the fence, I could go either way MYP or LR. The longer they take getting me my LR the more I think about getting the P…….and I am sure Tesla is counting on that to sway more people to the P.
YesThe Gemini wheels do fit on the P don't they? Silly that I forgot to ask this earlier
Keith
PackMan730
Member
I switched from LR to P model y, but I'm so worried about ride quality. I plan on driving this car on most weekends with my wife and even road trips and want a comfortable ride, instead of a jarring ride. I had a 2017 Subaru WRX and that car was fun to drive, but if I left a Togo coffee cup in the cup holder, it would spill the coffee all over because the car felt every road bump. Good to drive on my own, but terrible when I had guests because the car was so bumpy. I am expecting the performance to feel the same?
PackMan730
Member
Also, would anyone recommend switching with another rims? Maybe the LR induction rims? For ride quality? And what about ground clearance? Going in and out of driveways?
The Performance Model Y is the better choice if you want the fastest Model Y and like the look of the Uberturbine wheels, spoiler etc. The ride is firm but everyone has their own opinion on what is too firm. The ride height of the Performance Model Y is ~1/3 inch (1cm) lower than the Long Range Model Y's 6.6 inches so this is not likely to be an issue. The biggest drawback is that if you live where the temperature falls below 40F in winter and it can snow the tires that come with the Performance Model Y are summer only tires. You would need to purchase a set of winter tires. The all-season and winter tire selection for the 21" Uberturbine wheels is very limited so owners end up buying a second set of wheels in 19" or 20".
Another option is to have a coil-over suspension installed as this type of suspension can be adjusted for your preferred firmness and handling.
The 21" Uberturbine wheels on the Performance Model Y are heavier, less efficient than the 19" Gemini wheels or the 20" Induction wheels that come on the Long Range Model Y. You can get an idea of how speed impacts driving efficiency with the different wheels here:
Range loss with the different wheel options
Another option is to have a coil-over suspension installed as this type of suspension can be adjusted for your preferred firmness and handling.
The 21" Uberturbine wheels on the Performance Model Y are heavier, less efficient than the 19" Gemini wheels or the 20" Induction wheels that come on the Long Range Model Y. You can get an idea of how speed impacts driving efficiency with the different wheels here:
Range loss with the different wheel options
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I think the best thing anyone can do, if considering both these models, take as long a test drive as you possibly can. Drive on roads and in situations that you would normally drive. Don't just see how quick either car is. Pay attention to the tire noise, wind noise, etc. There are differences between these two models based on my road tests of about 6 different vehicles in the area of noise.
Some of the things that were important to us long-term didn't show up as issues on the first drive. Our attention was focused on other things that were so good and sort of blinded us at first to what could be irritants later.
It can be hard to get a test drive in some areas but I think it is really important. I wouldn't want a 60k blind date that you waited a long time based on just what comments you read on a forum. For me the comments were very helpful in general. I read both the pros and cons of each model by a bunch of different people. I looked at where people lived as that gave me some idea of what the roads and driving conditions are like and how relevant their experiences might be or how it might impact their priorities.
If it wasn't for this forum, I would have never learned about the acceleration boost option for the LR before I bought it. It was also helpful looking at actual times people ran with their various models in the 0-60 and 1/4 mile ranges. This also helped quantify the real world difference between 3.5 second time for the MYP factoring in rollout vs. the 4.8 for the stock LR and 4.2 for the boosted LR without. It took a lot of searching but there was a lot of data here to really understand the differences in the acceleration curves between the models.
Lastly I drove several model 3's. In the end I wish the MY was closer to all the M3 variants in acceleration. It also helped put in context how much heavier the MY was when driven back to back. The MY is not nearly as quick or as nimble but it is definitely more practical on a daily basis. Unfortunately for me it also showed up how much the MYP is lacking compared to the M3P. At the same time driving the M3 LR back to back with the MY LR made the MY feel positively slow. After that drive, there is no way I would have bought the MY LR without the AB option.
All in all it is great to have choices. The MYP and MYLR are more similar than they are different. I personally wished they were more different than they are.
Some of the things that were important to us long-term didn't show up as issues on the first drive. Our attention was focused on other things that were so good and sort of blinded us at first to what could be irritants later.
It can be hard to get a test drive in some areas but I think it is really important. I wouldn't want a 60k blind date that you waited a long time based on just what comments you read on a forum. For me the comments were very helpful in general. I read both the pros and cons of each model by a bunch of different people. I looked at where people lived as that gave me some idea of what the roads and driving conditions are like and how relevant their experiences might be or how it might impact their priorities.
If it wasn't for this forum, I would have never learned about the acceleration boost option for the LR before I bought it. It was also helpful looking at actual times people ran with their various models in the 0-60 and 1/4 mile ranges. This also helped quantify the real world difference between 3.5 second time for the MYP factoring in rollout vs. the 4.8 for the stock LR and 4.2 for the boosted LR without. It took a lot of searching but there was a lot of data here to really understand the differences in the acceleration curves between the models.
Lastly I drove several model 3's. In the end I wish the MY was closer to all the M3 variants in acceleration. It also helped put in context how much heavier the MY was when driven back to back. The MY is not nearly as quick or as nimble but it is definitely more practical on a daily basis. Unfortunately for me it also showed up how much the MYP is lacking compared to the M3P. At the same time driving the M3 LR back to back with the MY LR made the MY feel positively slow. After that drive, there is no way I would have bought the MY LR without the AB option.
All in all it is great to have choices. The MYP and MYLR are more similar than they are different. I personally wished they were more different than they are.
This hasn't been a problem for me at all... I have yet to have any issues with that... I've never had to do anything special with driveways or speedbumps, unlike my two Infinitis, that I have to take those same things diagonally. The only clearance issue I had with the Y, was the factory mudflaps are a touch longer than normal I think, as they touch tall speedbumps.
whisperingshad
Active Member
thesmokingman
Active Member
Basically yea. The Performance is tuned kind of like how Subaru tuned the early STI cars, ie. in Japan where it their road surface is insanely flat. They literally just took the dampers from the JDM cars and slapped them into the USDM car. I'm kind of surprised your later car handles the same way. The Performance is tuned with higher amounts of low speed compression, ie it feels stiffer with reduced roll but requires a bigger impact to actually compress the damper ie. overcome the bump compression. That higher impact force jars my insides. I can't use a regular mug in the wife's Performance, it would spill all over the place, even holding it in hand vs cup holder. The impact forces transferred to the cabin in the Performance is on the level of lowered car on crappy coilovers like google the JIC FLT A1 on the early Subarus. It's kidney pounding but in the Performance its wrapped in a much better isolated chassis that rides on a silly amount of elastomer damping, ie. the top hat rubber and bump stops so your brain gets tricked into thinking it feels much better than it is. As you can read I don't mince words when it comes to Tesla's simplistic damper tuning. However the chassis can be easily improved with a good set of coilovers that have low speed bump adjustment and there are a few good choices in that dept. With a good set of adjustable dampers you can get it much more comfortable for a sports car but it will never be a Benz though just keep that in mind.
That said, just like with the WRX you can't build a STI from the WRX for the difference in cost between them. In the case of the Tesla you can't do that at all due to the changes in the motors and whatever else undocumented changes.
Just make sure you get a decent quality wheel. The Y is pretty heavy and has instant torque. The last thing you would want to do is snap a wheel, like this hellcat.
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