Has anyone/big YouTubers ran a trolley problem with FSD Beta?

Havent found anything and im sure it would be a nice viral video if someone makes it (would probably cost a lot and require a stunt driver etc to make it realistic)

Really curious as how impossible scenarios are programed with FSD neural nets or if there is some sort of "governing ethics" code that is actually running (or if there is nothing running and FSD beta just gives up).

Things like two unavoidable crashes scenarios of the top of my head:

-one person/multiple people
-car vs human
-human vs animal
-car vs bus
etc

Driving home from work in the rain this evening when an RST Suburban braked suddenly due to a car in front of them slamming on the brakes to turn without signaling. Between the rain and speed I couldn’t stopped fast enough and I hit his rear bumper going about 5mph. No air bags deployed or injuries, other than my pride.

We traded information and went our separate ways. No police report file as neither of us had been in an accident before and honestly it seemed unnecessary at the time (hope this doesn’t come back to bite me). Both vehicles operable with little concern about making it home. Nice guy and his is a company car, which means he’s also on their corporate insurance policy as insured. My M3P is a lease due for early turn in on July 26th (target date) because I’ve ordered a Highland M3P replacement.

Damage wise it appears mostly surface level on the Suburban, and I’d argue it is close to the same on M3P. Yes the bumper and hood likely need to be replaced, maybe driver side fender too. In reading various accident threads over the years I realize that much more is probably lurking below the surface. I’m left wondering what options, if any, I might have and/or thinking about due to the surprise of this happening.

In no particular order:
1) Call my insurance company and make a claim, providing all of his information at the same time
2) See if the other party really insists on getting his fixed since it’s a company car. And either a) Work directly with body shop to get quote for fixing my car or b) Turn my car in as-is and see what they hit me for on damages
3) Other options or opinions?

Want a extra EV vehicle for my business needs but another Model Y will not suit what I want achieve in that I wish to replace a lot of my needed trips done in a ute so I will stow the rear seats down and load it up with boxes of gear etc. Basically a bloody nice EV delivery van.

Now I deserve something nice to drive now I am heading into my latter stages of my career of working bloody hard IMHO. I think a new Model X or the Kia EV9 would suit me, I want a new car with new car warranty, and no I do not want a Cybertruck.

So what should I get?

What, the new Model X is no longer sold into RHD markets?

I guess Tesla are too profitable to bother with us colonials down here and take our crappy money.

So it looks like Kia EV9 here I come. They seem keen enough to help me.

Ok - granted this title is a little click baity, but hear me out.

While no one knows for sure how v12 works, Tesla (I suppose mainly Elon) have claimed that it is 'photons in, controls out'. This implies that there are *no* heuristic rules anywhere in the stack. Every action taken by v12 is the result of learning how (good) humans drive.

This is clearly true in many situations, where v12 seems surprisingly human-like. However, two counter-examples make it clear that there are still heuristics in place, and these heuristics overrule whatever the NN might want to do:

1. Stop signs. No way they trained this thing on millions of examples of humans stopping at stop signs, and it learned to come to a complete stop at all times. (Yes, I know this was requested by the NHTSA. But my point remains - that hard-coded rule must still be in place today).
2. Creeping at intersections. v12, just like earlier versions, stops way back from the actual intersection first, and then begins a very gradual creep. No human drives like that. I understand why - it's clear that the b-pillar cams are the achilles heel of FSD. But even a driver with that same limited visibility wouldn't stop that far back first, and then begin gradual creeping.

I'm not suggesting this is necessarily a bad thing - I'm actually glad that they still have the ability to apply heuristic rules on top of a (seemingly) non-deterministic NN. But I do wonder how many lines of 'software 1.0' still remain in the stack.

Range question model y

Hello everyone!

I have a 2023 Model Y LR. At 100% charge the range shows 279 miles.

I was curious about battery degradation so I’ve followed instructions and let the car perform the battery test. Checked the next day and results came in at 99% battery health which is great, but at 100% it still shows 279.

Does the battery health test also perform a recalibration for BMR or is that a separate exercise that needs to be done? I generally try to not worry about miles and have it show % instead but still a bit bothers me why it only shows 279 if batter health is 99%

(Side note I only charge to 100% for the sake of this testing i don’t do that regularly)

Thank you!

Opt in from July 2024
all customers from July 2025

I'm looking to get an interim car with SC01 FUSC (Free Unlimited Supoercharging) and Tesla warned me even if Tesla re-introduces FUSC transfers, I might not be able to transfer to a new MS as she thought it only applied to the original owner. This doesn't sound right, just thought I'd check with you guys...

Thanks!

Ik ben een soort van vervloekt want ik hou het nooit lang vol om lang in dezelfde auto te blijven rijden.
De langste periode dat ik in dezelfde auto heb gereden was 3 1/2 jaar, maar het gemiddelde ligt op minder dan 2 jaar...
Ik rij ca 33.000km per jaar en de auto is een privé uitgave (investering zal ik het maar niet noemen ) en tegelijkertijd ook mijn hobby.

Het begint na twee jaar rijden in mijn M3P weer te kriebelen en ik overweeg om een Model S aan te schaffen.
Wel het model van net voor de facelift, dus bouwjaar 2020, de 'Raven' versie.

Momenteel kan ik uit deze twee opties kiezen:
Model S Performance, 12/2020, rood exterieur, wit interieur, 69.000km
of
Model S Long Range Plus, 12/2020, blauw exterieur, wit interieur, 58.000km

Het is koffiedik kijken, maar welke van deze twee auto's zou over een jaar of twee beter in de markt liggen, als ik ze (met veel verlies waarschijnlijk) weer wil verkopen.
De Performance is qua vraagprijs slechts €1.000 duurder dan de Long Range Plus. Beiden hebben FSD aan boord en maar één eigenaar gehad.
Nieuw was het verschil in prijs €17.000 dus de Performance lijkt mij het betere aanbod, maar hoe zou dat over twee jaar zijn?
Het verschil in actieradius is met de dezelfde maat velgen slechts 20km, dus dat is verwaarloosbaar.

Buiten de Tesla Model S is er eigenlijk niks dat mijn hart harder doet kloppen.
Een Model Y is in principe hetzelfde als de Model 3 die ik nu heb, behalve een hogere instap en minder actieradius. Kinderen heb ik niet dus het gaat me niet om meer ruimte.
Een nieuwe Model 3 Long Range zou ook kunnen, maar dan blijf ik voor mijn gevoel toch weer in dezelfde auto rijden.

In EV's van andere merken heb ik weinig vertrouwen qua software en betrouwbaarheid.
Er zijn natuurlijk heel veel Chinese EV's op de markt en daar zitten echt hele mooie auto's tussen, maar ik betwijfel of je die over een paar jaar wel verkocht gaat krijgen. Ze worden nu nieuw al nauwelijks verkocht.

De keuze is eigenlijk simpel, mijn verstand volgen en door blijven rijden in de Model 3, of mijn hart volgen en een Model S kopen, zodat ik die ook van het lijstje kan schrappen.

I am hoping for some advice here as I am in a stressful situation where my personal car/Tesla expert husband can't provide much help due to an illness that he had a few years ago that severely impacted his memory/cognition. We have a 2017 Model X with FSD, the MCU upgrade, and unlimited supercharging. It has about 26k miles on it because we are city people that primarily drive places that are 2 or 3 miles away on a daily basis, and only road trip once or twice a year (max of about 400 miles). Thankfully it is paid off, because in 2022 my husband had to go on long-term disability, so our income changed quite a bit. The X has been needing a lot of annoying little repairs over the last couple years that it has been out of warrantly, but nothing too costly. I have had it in my mind that the battery and drive unit warranty are up in June 2025, and I would need to figure out whether it would be better to sell/trade in before that happens.

So, what I have right now is a very squeaky/creaky Model X that I just found out needs $7200 work of repairs to the control arms, air springs, and also brake pads/calipers/rotors (possibly my fault due to not even thinking about brake maintenance, but the last 2 years have been a whirlwind of caregiving responsibilities, growing kids, just barely hanging in there at work, etc.). I declined the repairs and picked up the car to think about it. Then we went to test drive a Model Y, because now that I'm used to Tesla, the app, etc, I can't really imagine driving a regular car again. I know there are other EVs now that I could look at, but not sure I'm ready to go down that path. We would need a 7 seater if we had a Y, I wouldn't want to do a used one since it seems like there are none from 2022-23 and a 2021 Y will practically be out of warranty the second we get it.

Our trade-in value on the Y is not great ($27k) plus they would take off the $7k of repairs, and when they see the actual car they are going to see a little bit of damage that I haven't gotten repaired yet that will probably ding us around $1000, I would think.

My question...do I fork over $7k to keep this car chugging along and wait and see how much the next crazy repair costs us? Try to drive it into the ground? I know the battery should last us a long time since we have low miles, but know nothing about the drive unit. Or more like $19k with the trade in for a brand new Model Y? Of course, we also missed out on transferring FSD and unlimited supercharging, though given our driving style, we don't use either of them all that often.

Thank you for reading and any thoughts you have! I'm trying to figure out the things I'm not considering/don't know enough to consider/etc.

I'm so stupid. I hit the garage wall this morning backing out. Cracked the passenger side rear view mirror. Anyone know how much to replace?

Thank you

When I am driving and stop at a light, I see the speed go down to 0 and then it switches to "Hold". But, when stopping at the same light during FSD, I see the speed go down to 0 and then it does NOT go into "Hold" mode. Is the car actually in "Hold" mode and it is just not showing it? If it is not in "Hold" mode and FSD stops at a light and I'm on a hill, is the car going to start moving down hill on its own?

Hello,

So, my 21 M3 SR+ NCA battery failed at ~24K. I only drove it about 9K miles myself as I got it earlier this year with only 15K. Anyhow, I was lucky to be near a Tesla service center when this happened a couple of weeks ago. I signed the waiver and have the newer LFP battery with new suspension to compensate for the increase in weight. I have had my car back for about a week now and a couple of days ago I was supercharging and at 99% it says "calibrating" for over 10 minutes but I had to leave by that point and I am wondering how much longer I would have had to wait there if I just let it run? Also, what are the repercussions if any? I'm guessing that the BMS will not be as accurate in calculating potential range but besides that if I am correct on that, what else may there be to worry about here? I am guessing some of you have already dealt with this and this may be helpful to others who may be starting to go through this and would like to share what you think best practice(s) are or may be with this. In advance I thank you for your help on this and I'm new here with this being my first post. Please coach me if I am doing anything out of the standard etiquette expected here.

Thank you,

Justin

I’m new to Tesla is it OK to charge it every night and top it off or should I let it run down then charge it back up to 80%? Also what is the cost to install a wall charger?

My car is being shipped across the country (couldn't bear another 3100 mile, 7 day solo drive with a dog that pukes in the car ) and I'd like to use the app to see where it is. Right now it seems there's been no progress since last night and the "location" jumps between two addresses, both nearby and both residences rather than a parking lot as I would expect. I've shipped it once before and the location did not update and not accurate, if I remember correctly. Any insight much appreciated.

I've finally decided to pull the trigger on a model Y and after test driving, choosing spec etc the dealer agreed to accept ethereum as a payment.
All good until this Friday when they've emailed me asking to provide an AML report (they suggested a known provider of aml reports for this) to prove the legitimacy of my coins. I did the check thinking it was just a formality but the aml report came back saying 92% of my ETH is somehow involved in illicit activities.
I didn't send them the report yet (waiting until tmro) but im thinking I should try another dealer ? Any advice for me ? Or should I just send them the report hoping they won't check thoroughly ?

Driving to the office in the morning, my wife's 2023 MY picked a nail, on the rear passenger side. She got an alert on her cell phone around 3 pm, the tire pressure was low - 32 PSI. I have her carry a portable inflator so asked her to fill it to 46 psi and drive to nearby America's Tire (In California that's what they call Discount Tire), which is around one mile away. She was not too sure so called Tesla Roadside assistance and the mobile tire service van arrived in an hour. The guy straight forward told her, he wouldn't patch it so the only thing he can do is replace the tire (approx. 8K miles on tire/car). Interestingly, he told her the tire was losing air very slowly so he could top it and she could take it to America's Tire and they may patch it, but he wouldn't. Wife being a wife - she said okay to replace the tire! So the Tesla service replaced the tire ($450 pop) and returned the old tire which I got patched for free. So have a look at the pictures guys and let me know what you think. IMO Tesla plays safe from liability reasons. There was no need to replace the tire. But I would like to hear what you guys think.

Also, let me know - should I leave the brand new tire there, as it is mixed with 8K old (but in great shape 7/32) tires, or shall I get the old one put back and keep brand new as a spare or future replacement where I would have to buy only three instead of four tires.

I have a 2018 MX with HW2.5 with enhanced autopilot. With the price drop to $2000 for FSD, would I get the HW3 or HW4 upgrade? Also, what MCU would they upgrade to?

Thanks.

Just got back from our trip to Lake Como. My plan was to go via one of Furka Pass but the owner of the Airbnb that we stayed at in Switzerland said "Oh, we've recently had lots of snow, lets check..." CLOSED! Instead we went via Simplon Pass and the car train through the mountain before it.


Our nearest Supercharger was about 50km away which meant that we were at the mercy of whatever local which wasn't great. In the town and most nearby were only 11kW. DC chargers, first one worked but not several days later. Tried one, only doing AC, next one totally dead. Next after that only delivery 36kW. We did visit a museum in Como and used a charger at the railway, that was reasonably cheap at 56p, only the second one I tried worked.
On the one day that we headed to Bergamo, the entire 20 stall Supercharger site was down and came back online when we where half way back to our accommodation. Grr.
Good trip though and some fun efficiency figures (current drive):-

Route down was through France, overnight Airbnb in Bern so that we could do a leisurely trip across picture postcard Switzerland in the daytime. Route back was via Splugen Pass and through the Black Forest (Germany), Strasbourg and Belgium.

At Arlon Supercharger, we also previewed the new Mercedes Convertible EV (sarcasm of course):-






Returning home this morning, Octopus Agile gave us a treat too, right in time for a recharge from 14%!


Anyway, just sharing another "Trip to the local shops" because that's all these EV things are useful for. Now thinking about where to go for the next one.

Got tagged by a truck on Friday. Thankful no one hurt and at least its paid off. Actually hope they total it and I will order a new Highland performance

Hello all,

I got my new MYP end of April, when I took it next day the inspection shop damaged a wheel. Took a while but finally got them to order a new wheel and replace. They put it on yesterday and I’m noticing the color is off a bit from the others. Is that possible? The new one looks more dark grey compared to the other ones which are more of a medium grey. The car has about 600 miles on it.

Did the other 3 rims lighten up a bit from sun exposure or did Tesla change the color on some batches?

I have only used a supercharger once so far and I'm not sure I was doing the right thing. At home, I use the wall connector. I have it set up on a 60 amp breaker and set the car setting for 48 amp.

Do I need to change that setting when using a supercharger? And if so, what should I change it to? Or does that setting only apply when use the wall connector?

I made the mistake thinking I was doing an update to my model y, when it turns out it installed beta auto steer, which I DO NOT WANT.
It also took my cruise control out.

So, how do I remove it!!!!??? FSD!!! I want it gone

I’ve got a Quicksilver MYLR due next week and I think it will look better with some black Gemini covers rather than silver ( two tone silver :-/ ). Looking for ones that cover the edges so no silver band.

Want to keep the aero so not looking for other styles.

Can anyone recommend based on experience?

Kavanic on Amazon do some but they are £250. Seems steep considering you can get them on eBay in some places for £80-ish.