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My 2019 stealth Performance, 6/19 build, 26k miles, just lost heat 2 days ago and threw 2 codes. No other issues atm but I made an appointment for the service center. Wow, that's great that they got you in and out so quickly. I bet my PTC died t00.

Really?? I can't believe the update solved the issue. I just got the 2 exact same codes as you have and my heater stopped working 2 days ago on my 2019 M3P, 26k miles. I did a hard reboot (disconnected battery terminal, unplugged under-seat connector) and the codes were cleared. Then I...

Yes, whoops, >360-mile range indeed. While I'm sure I'd love HW4 and a refreshed look, I'd consider moving from a '19 M3P (21k miles) to a '24 M3P a pretty lateral move not worthy of my dollars if the 0-60 and 1320 performance is no better than current-gen. I'll hold off for 0-60 in 2.9s and...

Until 0-60 in <2.9s and <360-mile range, count me as a no. But hit those goals and I'll upgrade the ol' M3P. There is no upgrade without an upgrade in performance.

What a weird situation. At first glance I didn't think you were at fault but I watched it twice and I agree with insurance that you are at fault. So... you are sitting there parked, and have 30 seconds or so that you can safely take off, but you don't. Right when it becomes unsafe for you to...

This is driving me nuts. TuneIn has been my somewhat lousy solution to listening to podcasts in the car the last 2 years, and it just gets worse and worse. I used to have 1-2 podcasts that would eventually load most the time, not it just barely works at all. Just spinning, loading, etc...

Thanks @Knightshade , good stealth explanation and nice recap of the history! I think the stealth moniker came about from the fact that it's just a factory sleeper and a "wolf in sheep's clothing", and due to the fact that they are the most rare 3 variant ever produced. (I've completely...

I haven't read the whole thread and I'm sure somebody has mentioned this before - get the stealth. Best of both worlds and that's exactly why they made it. As quick as performance, full track mode etc, but with all the practicality, range, comfort, and all-season-ability of the LR. They are...

I had the same issue on my 2019. M3P-. I snapped a pic, put in a service request through app, dropped it off at Tesla a few mornings later and picked it up at noon the same day. Warranty replacement, zero hassle, couldn't be easier. I had tint on the window that cracked, but never really...

That's pretty much what I'd expect. Rears will wear out first since the car delivers more torque and bias to the rear, and the reason the right rear tire is worn more than the left rear tire is because right turns are usually much tighter and it's also more likely a person will go WOT coming...

I read this whole thread with curiosity trying to figure out why people are adding NVH and cheapness to their Tesla's to make them look like an 80's Honda. Your response is the first one that hit the nail on the head.

Chrome delete is "cold air intake" mod of the Tesla world. Accomplishes nothing, cheapens the car, but it does make it different and people want that. Putting stickers on a car has never been cool, IMO.

As a couple others of stated, I'd hunt relentlessly for the only model that has actually had an *increase* in MSRP the last year or two and is the most rare model as well.... and the model that offers zero compromises (best performance, best range, best practicality). Patience will pay off...

My '19 Model 3 downloaded the new update overnight, and I DON'T want to install it. The car has presented me with 2 options, either "install now" or "schedule update". With the "schedule update" option, it is only a 24-hr clock and I can't select a future date. So, for now, I scheduled it out...

THIS, yes! LionXng knows dynos.... I do too. Peak power isn't near as important as "power under the curve", and doubly so for early power under the curve. Car A can make more power 90% of the powerband but if power B has a crazy peak near redline where it makes 1hp, it is not the faster car...

I presume this has been brought up already - GET THE STEALTH. No compromises - all the range, practicality, and comfort AND all the speed. It's the performance but instead of silly rubber-band tires and boy-racer touches it is finished off to look just like the LR AWD. They do still exist but...

I feel ya! Same here. I de-badged my stealth completely, but added a "wolf in sheep's clothing" sticker to indicate that maybe I'm hiding something. Then I added the Mazda license frames to add to the nonsense. :D

Pretty sure they still exist. I know we just had a local pick up a stealth Y, which is absolutely what I'd get if I was getting a Y. They are pretty darn hard to find though and you just need to put in a few zip codes and search existing inventory. I helped a guy find one online in August or...

Just the opposite feeling here. I've recently had a Shelby and still have an AMG and they both have so much tack-on and gaudiness added to them to differentiate from the base models. All I really care about is performance and the extra bling is too look-at-me showy. When I shopped for the 3...

You don't recognize a +$5k price change as an increase, alright, let's leave that alone then. But... :) Why would Tesla raise the price on a model nobody wants - that makes no sense - while cutting prices on all the others? You've got it exactly backwards. Simple economics, supply and...

Not sure how we can make this much more clear for you. 2019 Stealth Performance $49.9k 2020 Stealth Performance $54.9k

Why don't you just do some research when you don't know? Again, no, not all models got price reductions. Those with greatest demand got big price increases - a $5k price increase between 2019 and 2020 stealth performance 3's. Stealth Performance Now Available!

They don't lower prices across the board. Some prices have stayed the same and the most in-demand have seen price increases. (I'm thinking mainly of the stealth performance 3, which say a $5k price bump from '19 to '20). For some of us, namely existing stealth owners and all new buyers, the...

Yeah that's odd, especially considering there are only 7 superchargers in the whole C470 (metro Denver) belt loop.

I haven't read the whole thread, but for others reading this in the future, the stealth is the obvious answer. Take all the best from the LR AWD and all the best from the Performance and get the no-compromise stealth. I know some advocate buying the performance and selling the wheels, but the...

Following.... I'm really close to you.

Smokin' deal. I paid $49.9k private party for my '19 stealth, with 6700 miles, xpel ppf, tint, and new CrossClimates. GLWS, it won't last long! You do know that these are now $56k new, right, and hard to find?

Just stumbled across this thread... if you can find a stealth "P-" it's definitely the sweet spot but they are produced in limited numbers and go fast.

Wait what? Buy the "+" to mostly convert it to a "-" (tire and wheel swap) to get the "added benefits" cosmetic features of spoiler, pedal pads, and painted calipers.... meh... seems a lot easier just to buy the "-" in the first place.

You think that because of how rare the P- has been, up until recently. They've been snatched up VERY quickly, but a lot of that has to do with the initial pricing of the -, but it's fixed now. There are many, many threads of people asking "should I get the LR AWD plus boost or Performance?"...

Keeping? :) Actually I ordered a pair of those from Amazon intentionally after de-badging. I'm just playing up on the 'stealth' thing, minimizing Tesla-haters, and entertaining myself mostly. ;)

My stealth, wolf-in-sheep-clothing edition, with matching helmet.

It's the Performance with different final exterior touches so I'd say almost certainly. Plus, all of the '19 stealths did and they raised the price by $5k so it wouldn't make any sense to remove it. Then again, it's Tesla so I guess we need to all be cautious with our assumptions. ;)

Just getting caught up here... I'll add... Two cars, built identically, same motors and software, are finished off two different ways depending on buyer preference... both are "Performance" but finishing details are different and indicate how they were finished. Performance, or "P+" , or PUP...

Yes, exactly right. P- and P+ are the same price now - just pick whichever equipment package best suits your needs. Indeed, the P- was was available for a short time at a super special price but that ship has sailed.

FYI, you can still buy the P- "stealth" with v2 track mode, 18" wheels, etc, if you don't want the performance and efficiency tradeoffs of the bigger heavier wheels and other tack-ons. Hard to find model, but it's out there.

Your upgrades/downgrades are still the opposite of mine, and entirely subjective. Not only would I not consider anything but 18's, if I did, I'd love to upgrade to some 17's, maybe 16# or so, and run those instead of the 18's. As far as I'm concerned, any time you have less unsprung weight...

Different equipment, not worse. A lot of people prefer 18's, regular ride height, longer range,, more comfort, marginally better 0-60, and less flash. I've been down a similar P+ type road many times (my AMG, my Shelby, etc), and I was attracted to the P- because I wanted all the fun but none...

Yes, due to very high demand they are making them again, and the P- stealth is the only variant over the last year to get a substantial price increase... in existing inventory in San Diego right now.

Not sure who alluded to it there being some sort of difference, but whether it's the P+ or P- the go-fast stuff and electronics (track mode, etc), are completely identical. The differences are all in how the car is finished off... straight-line acceleration, longer range, nicer ride, regular...

Yes, exactly. While all the 3's and even the new Y have had price decreases, Tesla cranked UP the price of P- due to very high demand and limited supply. Several youtubers explain the P-, or stealth: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=stealth+model+3

P-, or "stealth", sounds like the way to go for you. 20" wheels and rubber-band tires on a very heavy sedan are a horrible combination, and if you prefer the more muted look, it's nice from that aspect as well. If you like max g-force, you'll want a P+/- for sure. P on chill is slow, so no...

"Documented", yet not document. That's one red flag. 0-60 10% faster than anyone else has got, another red flag. Maybe you are right... gutted interior, skinny small driver, 18" lightweight wheels, etc. Outside of that, call me a skeptic. But maybe you are right... care to provide said...

P- times are slightly quicker than P+ (about a tenth) on the 0-60 pretty much exclusively because of the lighter wheels and tires with more sidewall. Rotational un-sprung rate makes a difference and it's a big deal in drag racing. So you are on the money there. Wait... "less traction"?? No...

29# wheels?!?! Wow, that's probably your answer right there - big ass heavy wheels. Even the stock P3D+ wheels are heavy. I posted my old Dragy above on my P3D-... it's with the stock wheels, 21.6# apiece.

For comparison sake, here's my P3D-, last August before the 5% power boost. Dragy on this one is actually from my dragstrip run at Bandimere Speedway, where the car did a 11.55 quarter mile. 3.29 0-60, 3.09 (1ft roll-out). I'd expect it to be a teeny bit quicker but haven't had a dragy on it...

Great post and video, @NorfolkMustard I've purchased the OBDLINK LX and the scanmytesla app. I never considered that there wasn't actually an OBD port, doh! I'm not wild about plugging in the OBD adapter, as I'm concered it may have some adverse effect on the car. 1) Does plugging in the...

Not quick enough to warrant it.

Ohhhhhh...... very very nice... this was my finalist, an RS3, preferably in that gray just like that! I was on a nationwide search for both ~2018 RS3's and ~2019 stealth Model 3. I ended up finding a stealth 15 minutes away from me, but if it would have been an RS3 like this then that would be...

I much prefer the 18's and like the more purposeful look. In 2 prior cars the last few years I did the same thing, switching from 20 s to 18's in one case and 17's in another. For acceleration and comfort, the smaller wheels perform much better. I've been curious as to whether any 17's would...