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I drove about 250 miles with it today, mostly freeway. - Lane changing seemed much smoother - Decision making to pull out of the passing lane and back was more frequent and smoother - It biases away from semi's pretty hard, often riding the lane marker - Very little phantom braking, not gone...

You know how much you could take it past zero that time. You have no idea what will happen next time you try this. The SOC meter is constantly adjusting. You really shouldn't plan any trips that have you arriving with less than 15%.

The pads float and are held in place by the pins. Standard disk brake setup, very easy to service.

They do need maintenance, but it's a lot less and you don't need to go to a mechanic for it. Change cabin air filter and wipers by yourself once a year. Get the tires swapped at a tire shop every few years and have the brakes cleaned and checked at the same time. Tesla service will rotate...

Your situation is possibly the perfect use case for an EV of any kind. 1. Own your home and can control charging time and rates 2. Need to commute routinely which means there is a significant existing gas bill to offset. 3. Have alternate means of transport for infrequent road trips. The...

I can hear the same thing on the drivers side only with the windows down. It's a metal on metal clink. I've inspected the tire and that isn't the cause. Looks like I need to make an SC appointment.

Misleading title, bordering on click-bait. You do not "damage" the battery by driving any more than you damage the brakes by using them to stop the car. They both wear slowly due to normal use and eventually need to be replaced. Using either abnormally, like using DCFC 2-3 times a day or...

No

If using metal clad wire you can definitely just fasten this wire to the bottom of the joist. It will be a lot quicker and easier. If, however, you are planning on finishing your basement in the near future, you may want to drill the joist to make that project easier. The jacket on the 6/2...

Aluminum wire should really only be used for feeding a sub panel a long distance from a main panel. This is absolutely the wrong use for it. Also, if you aren't limited by capacity on your panel, run a 60A circuit for your charger. The cost difference is negligible, and assuming that you...

Why not just attach the conduit to the bottom of the joist instead of drilling them all out? A large load like an EV charger is always ideal coming from the main panel instead of the sub panel, but I agree that upgrading the sub panel feeder is another valid option.

^^^ This is where to start. It sounds like you have narrowed down the issue to Your Car + Your Location. Other Location or Other Car does not cause the issue, and changing the EVSE does not change the outcome. "Dirty Power" is a thing, but has nothing to do with your issue. You need to clear...

1 - Line 10 indicates that the breaker and wire for the charging circuit have been appropriately sized. If you suspect that the main service wire and breaker are not appropriately sized, charging is the least of your worries and you probably need to rethink all other electrical usage in your...

Another less scientific way to approach this if you have an unknown capacity to add current draw: 10 Run a new 60a circuit with appropriately sized wire and breaker to your garage. 20 Install HPWC and commission at 60a. 30 Start charging. 40 If you trip the main breaker, reset it and lower the...

We have one, but I charge 99% at my office. We shared it for a few months which was OK. It depends on both of your commutes and how diligent you are at plugging in.

The daily commute is irrelevant. If this is your primary charging location and it's free, you are going to charge 100% of your annual miles at this location. You roll in Monday with an empty tank, and fill up to 80%. It doesn't really matter how much of that was work related. So instead of...

A couple missing pieces of information that would be helpful: - Is the parking location secured or open to the public - Is the charger location protected from weather or completely open to rain? - Are you sure that $.09 / kWH is your total cost of energy and do you have a TOU rate plan that may...

Your profile indicates that you live in Santa Clara. If your electrician is charging less than $125/man/hour there you are probably talking to the wrong one. I agree that you should get several quotes or estimates. If you supply a HPWC a pre-wired installation like that should take 1-2 hours...

Also google "tool positioner"

The car doesn't want you to arrive with less than 20%, and in my experience it usually shoots for 25-30%. If you leave your destination in the nav and tap cancel charging stops, it will tell you how much battery (as a negative number) you will have when you get there. Just figure out how much...

@HellsKitchen That is a great solution for your garage, but I would also consider the electrical usage of your house as long as you are investing in an upgrade. What are the electrical needs of your house going to be for the next 10 years? It sounds like upgrading the main panel, and adding a...

I would upgrade your main to 200 and then figure out what the realistic max you could bring to your garage is. Thinking about a daily commute is the short view. If you only think about getting to work on Monday then 120v 15a is probably fine. If, however, you think about what kind of vehicles...

Just finished installing 10.11.2. Came from 10.10.2

I'm in a house. I installed my own wall connector (x3 at various locations). They are installed in the most un-licensed fashion possibly so I can't help with a referral. The point above about not having space for a GFCI breaker is a good one. Space, not just amperage, is likely going to be...

I would wire and install a 30 amp receptacle like two of your electricians said. If you have issues with tripping, you can manually dial the charge rate down in the car. 50A on that panel is just ridiculous.

If you have a Lithium Ion battery only charge to 80-90%. If you have a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery charge to 100%. If you have a Lithium Ion battery and are going on a trip, charge to 100% but use scheduled departure to finish charging within 30-60 minutes of your estimated departure. If...

Correct, use the bare wire as ground and cap the neutral. Wait for a few people here to tell you the sky is falling if you use a 60A breaker, but I personally wouldn't worry about it.

I use a Juicebox 40 at my lake house. It works just fine to charge a Tesla. Aside from the physical connection, there isn't much difference between that and a wall connector. If there's a significant incentive, I would definitely consider this as an option. You could always swap it out later...

This is my #1 problem with FSD and NOA on city roads before it. Just hug the left lane line, don't drive in the parking lane like an idiot. This seems like an easily solveable set of circumstances that have received zero attention over the last couple years.

Small sample size. Drive like normal and check this again in a week. Also, read a bit about range first before starting the 1000th thread on this.

If an improperly sized breaker was grounds for a lawsuit, there wouldn't be a real estate transaction in the US that didn't end up in court. If you are concerned that the wire will overheat despite being an adequate size for at least a 55A draw, leave the 50A breaker as suggested above. You...

You may be able to add a larger buss bar kit to your panel to match the cover. There is a sticker in your panel that will let you know the max size you can run. That should let you run a standard dual pole breaker and generally make it easier to clean up the panel. FWIW I think you're fine...

If someone does steal your Tesla, you can just open your phone to find it's location. I think the MY is a great choice for a grinding commute, but I would definitely get 19" Geminis over the 20 or 21" wheels for the potholes and the weather. If you use AP through the tunnel and especially...

I tried the Z143 on 19" gemini's and they were not close to fitting. I struggled with them for two hours before giving up. I suspect that I either received the wrong product, or quality control in China is lax. I ended up ordering the Koenigs from Tesla.com. Even if I got these to fit, they...

All businesses set their rates based upon their costs. When you buy a tomato at the grocery store, you are inherently paying for the cost of the tomatoes that fell off of the truck or were otherwise lost in production, regardless of what is listed on the label. Not rolling those costs into the...

I should have mentioned that you would have to subtract out any supercharging KWHs as well.

To get a rough idea you can take your miles driven x your average KWH/mile usage, divide by .92 for efficiency and multiply by $.136 to get dollars. This will tell you the total cost since new, which after a month or two should give you an idea of your cost per mile or cost per week, etc.

Pictures? Most companies will have a per foot charge for trenching and covering. If this is through concrete I can see it being that much. If it is in softscape it should be cheaper. More details required to tell if it is a rip off or not. Is it worth it or not is another question.

NM cable is usually fastened with hammered in staples, which often pinch the conductors more closely together than any other type of MC or raceway run cables. This is one of the primary reason it is idiot-proofed with a 60C amperage rating. Building codes are meant to protect you from the...

This sounds like a WiFi issue. Is your WiFi dual band? Is Band Steering enabled? How about 802.11r/k fast roaming? What is the RSSI of another device at the charger location? Are you using MAC whitelisting / blacklisting? What's the size of the DHCP pool? There are many factors that could...

You should provide more info such as the breaker rating of your current charger and pictures of your panel. My first thought is: You don't need two chargers. Just alternate nights that you charge your vehicles (assuming the cord will reach all parking spots). It is possible to connect two...

Maybe it's just me but I would hit that panel with a shop vac while the cover is off. Otherwise the install looks god. Wouldn't be a bad idea to correct the wire on that top left breaker as others have said.

OP should research what happens to the fatality rate in accidents as the speed increases above 70 mph.

I can see why that was taken down. The video pretty clearly shows that driver error was the cause of the accident. The oversteer reaction is really bad. Either OP wasn't really gripping the steering wheel, or they are an inexperienced driver. If you have been driving for any length of time...

You definitely do not need to upgrade your service, but I would like to see what's under the main panel cover. As @Sophias_dad mentioned, there is something strange going on or perhaps another disconnect that should be protecting the wire to your interior panel. I say 60A all day off of your...

It would be a lot easier to make a judgement if you posted pictures of the breakers in your panel(s)

Standard margin of safety is 1.5 to 2.0 before you get a statistically likely failure point.

Internal "beta" testing is called alpha testing, FYI.

The video didn't have much of a pronounced shadow. In so cal where cloud cover is rare, the shadow is much more distinct. I will save a video and post it next time it happens. It's pretty common with trucks and bridges but seems to have gotten worse with vision-only. The radar seemed to...

Since I got into the beta about a week ago and being forcibly switched to vision only, I've noticed that driving into the shadow of a semi truck has a very high hit rate for either phantom braking or a take-over immediately warning. Twice today I was on the shady side of a truck while on FSD...