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Car shutting down - PULL OVER SAFELY on the freeway 3 days after delivery
- Thread starter David3
- Start date
Jedi2155
Model 3 has Arrived.
The pyro fuse is also part of the pack over current protection system. If it senses too high a current (due to drive electronics, wiring, heater, charger, or AC fault), it blows the fuse (at least that's how the L fuse works. ).
It is getting pretty frustrating though, especially after the service manager just want to deny they caused the issue during repair and don't even want to acknowledge the problem even when there's quantitative measurements documented by a Tesla technician showing the issue.
It's getting hard to trust them too. They repaired my car for the first breakdown and it broke down again on the same day I got it back from them and they also denied the breakdown was related to their repair.. sounding familiar.
I got the car back this morning. They performed PROC-VCLEFT_X_STEERING-COLUMN-CALIBRATION and fixed the issue.
They are still not sure why it needed re-calibration, because according to them it's not usually needed after a HV battery replacement..
xpitxbullx
Member
ceekz
Member
Me, last night with less than 150 miles on my Tesla. I had just pulled into a parking lot and the alarm started beeping and flashed this error message, along with something about the emergency brake not engaging. I called the service number and was asked if the car was driving normally prior to the alert (yes) and then waited on hold. The rep asked me to reboot the system (by pressing the brake and both steering wheel controls until the T symbol came back up on the screen). I was able to drive away after the reboot.
I asked why this might have happened and she replied that my car is just one big computer and sometimes it needs a reboot. I think the answer would have been very different if the car was not driving normally like the other OPs experienced when the alert popped up.
I asked why this might have happened and she replied that my car is just one big computer and sometimes it needs a reboot. I think the answer would have been very different if the car was not driving normally like the other OPs experienced when the alert popped up.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
That response from the rep is ridiculous. Plenty of other cars on the road have extremely sophisticated computer control of their drive systems, transmissions, etc., and don't "need a reboot".
I agree with your sentiment, but to be fair, a key cycle (plus exit and timeout) on pretty much every other car reboots it. I've had cars that needed a power cycle and or DTC clear to be happy again for months.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Not true AFAIK. My BMW F30 never was "hard" shut down even when the car was shut off.
Interesting, depends on the car and how sleep/ low power mode is implemented on the micros.
Yup. 2013 Chevrolet Volt.
Messages:
Service Stabilitrak. Service brake assist.
Those messages are totally not scary enough. They actually mean "You have no traction control and no power braking".
Turn off.
Walk away.
Come back.
Turn on
Drive a little.
Turn off.
Walk away.
Come back.
Turn on.
Check engine light clear.
My X3 has needed to be cold restarted once or twice. Cold as in open rear access panel and detach/reattach BMS box on top of battery. And also a couple of time, dump all setting by using key inside fob to reset user setting. (Hold key to right, count to 5, turn key to left to unlock car, ....)
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
I owned Audi A4s from 2000 till 2012. Never had to "reboot" the car.
I owned F30 BMWs from 2012 till 2018, never had to "reboot" the car.
Maybe I was just lucky, or, maybe Tesla just needs to do a better job.
Full disclosure, I was parking my car a last Friday and it threw a bunch of alarms saying emergency braking was disabled, contact service, etc. I was walked through "restarting the car" by local service center. My wife commented "I've never had to do that with a car before".
We have to resist the desire to cut Tesla slack on this stuff, or people will come to accept it.
VRM3
Member
THIS ^^
I’m dealing with my own little service center battle and took the approach of keeping Tesla accountable for a poor experience and shoddy workmanship. Despite the fact that I ADORE my Model 3 and will usually put up with a lot, I won’t pull any punches in this area. It would harm Tesla in the long run if customers rolled over on reasonable service and quality concerns. Must...resist...
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Wait until people who purchase a $35,000 Model 3 over an Accord or Camry start to tear into them. They will expect perfect fit and finish and since they aren't buying the car for performance reasons or to save the planet, but are instead buying it for financial reasons, it will be no holds barred.
Painful for Tesla but good for us in the long run I hope.
@David3 this is all f'd up, man. I'm sorry for what you're experiencing. Tesla right now is a joke in terms of QC.
Completely agree with not cutting Tesla slack.
Just pointing out BMWs are troublesome cars. We lease new cars every 3 years. One for my wife, one for me. For 20+ years those were BMWs. In the last decade have several E90s (2 turbo failure, one 200 miles from home), an F30 (that is the battery failure car), and X3 (2016 F25) lockout issues with memory settings dumps). They all rattled and squeaked. I have bottles of Gummi Plege in my garage. On Bimmerfest or another forum I posted a picture of me with my head down on the passenger seat floor under the glove box while my wife is driving, as I try to locate a rattle. Turns out they forgot to tighten the screws that connect the glove box door and those that attached the inside air blender door.
Frankly I think you where lucky. Perhaps your cars were all built in Germany. We had turbo failures with the German built units, but fewer electronic issues. Those seem to occur with cars built in South Africa and South Carolina.
We are buying the F25 for a family member when the lease completes in a month. But, I will definitely buy a multi-year service contact since each of the turbo failures ran over $6,000 to repair and a 4 year service contract will run $3,500 or so.
Because of these issues we went with a Tesla X this lease cycle. We have been stranded once
, so they are matching our BMW experience. But even with that I like the X much better than the X3.Maybe I should go back to my 90s 6 series. Slow, big, sucked gas, but simple and reliable.
My car started failing to charge correctly over a period of 2 weeks, getting increasingly harder to charge with more and more error messages until it just failed to start at all. Tesla replaced 12v battery and HV control module. Fixed the problem for 2 weeks but not the issue started again..
Looks like I had the same thing happen last night. This is my first post, haven't had the need to post before. I've had the dual motor model 3 for 3 months and 6,000 miles. Right as we were going over some railroad tracks at about 15 mph both motors stopped working and the car would not switch to neutral. I don't have pictures considering the car was on the tracks I didn't take the time to document what was going on. Fortunately the police were able to get the trains stopped as they often fly through there. My son was in the car at the time too and let's just say we're all scared to ride in the thing again. If it happened on a freeway or somewhere where we can't get off the road safely this is a real issue. I didn't realize the tow mode would allow the car to be pushed until I got a hold of roadside assistance which took a number of minutes, not to mention the stress of the situation. I would think they could put information on the screen to help you get off the road safely like how to switch into neutral which I had made sure to practice previously and the tow mode. I'd also like to note I could not push the car by myself and it took a minimum of three people since the motors were engaged. I also thought having the dual motors was supposed to prevent something like this from happening. I have had a few errors in the past which went away saying the rear motor was disabled. Getting out and opening the frunk seemed to make that go away for some reason and it happened about 4 times but only when parked and getting in, never while in motion. The car was towed to the service center but I haven't heard back as to what's wrong yet.
