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Yes, Tesla's U version still supplies same amount of coolant to both the stator, gear box, and inverter.But doesnt the Tesla revised "U" version LDU still supply coolant to the Gearcase?
You mean the same coolant that came from the heatsoaked rotor? The external tube is return coolant from the rotor, not a fresh coolant feed.But doesnt the Tesla revised "U" version LDU still supply coolant to the Gearcase?
FYI Early MS LDU/RDU coolant leakage; current state of affairsMy biggest concern is that by bypassing the coolant away from both the stator and the gearcase, it will cause heatsoak and damage to the gearcase or other parts of the LDU. I do drive my MS very "spiritedly" you could say. I think i am going to be on the lookout for a good deal on a used LDU I can purchase to keep as a spare and do the modifications on. If I never use it with my MS, ive been wanting to find a old muscle car rolling chassis and do a EV conversion.
On Tesla's U version, and many 3rd party coolant delete devices that keep the external tube (aka flyover tube/pipe), there is fresh coolant, not heat soaked from rotor going to the gear box via the external tube. Coolant delete bypasses the rotor entirely.You mean the same coolant that came from the heatsoaked rotor? The external tube is return coolant from the rotor, not a fresh coolant feed.
You can buy coolant bypass plates that retain the external tube if it really bothers you to have it.
From what I understand it actually dosent, if you look at the schematics of the LDU on the U model, it simply by passes the issue, some times the simplest fixes are the best, but of a pity Tesla dosent offer a retrofit option for us out of warranty crew in our Model S,s, sometimes I do scratch my head when it comes to Tesla Service, if you have a problem fix it and make it available to your customer base !!!!But doesnt the Tesla revised "U" version LDU still supply coolant to the Gearcase?
Tesla's U version does supply coolant to the gearbox in the same ways all pre U versions have - via the flyover tube/pipe and inverter.From what I understand it actually dosent, if you look at the schematics of the LDU on the U model, it simply by passes the issue, some times the simplest fixes are the best, but of a pity Tesla dosent offer a retrofit option for us out of warranty crew in our Model S,s, sometimes I do scratch my head when it comes to Tesla Service, if you have a problem fix it and make it available to your customer base !!!!
Some BMW iX owners are experiencing steering rack failures. If one of those fails out of warranty it's a $5k repair. If the electrochromic glass roof needs to be replaced that's $15k. Tesla owners have it easy! lolI'm not so sure "The original client base wouldn't care about the cost of a new LDU". Though people have the money to buy 130k cars, that doesn't mean they don't care about $8,000 fixes. I was with a Porsche owner last night that needs a new or rebuilt engine after about 65,000 miles due to bore score. Yes he drives an expensive car, but he's bull%&#@ about being told he needs a $26,000 engine. Looks like warranty is going to cover it so no harm, but the point is 130k car buyers want value just like 35k car buyers do.
I really think that the way Tesla could have handled this was a voluntary bypass retrofit at their expense, if you get it done in X time frame great, if you don't then LDU is at your risk. Not sure what it would cost the company, but brand loyalty is everything for Tesla.
Unfortunately you need to remove the LDU to pull out the old one. Check out our video on how to do it.Can any of these deletes be done without having to remove or drop the LDU?
There are some options out there not requiring LDU removal. Here's oneUnfortunately you need to remove the LDU to pull out the old one. Check out our video on how to do it.
Cutting away the manifold will just dump aluminum chips into the cooling system and into the rear bearing. I would be very careful with this approach. Once you get aluminum chips into the cooling system, your looking at a nightmare for the pumps etc.There are some options out there not requiring LDU removal. Here's one
I don't know if you can avoid it. You need to cut it in half to get the bottom part off, at that point tons of aluminum chips make their way into the old manifold and possibly into the inlet of the stators waterjacket that is located at the bottom of the motor.If you're stupid about it sure it can happen.