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If doing this, undo the swaybar linkage as well to get that spring compressed a bit more before the car lifts off the jackstand. You won't get it to compress all the way to the proper ride height this way, but it's probably a reasonable compromise between following the service manual and a...

Too bad they made them staggered...

With the two bad CR ball joints I've experienced, it was impossible to tell while still bolted to the car. After undoing the joint, the extra slop in the bad one was pretty clear. Someone like @MountainPass should make a complete arm with MPP.R caster bearing and a serviceable ball joint.

Maybe the RW pilloball tophats would help, but those won't be AS legal, methinks. Other than that, only a big hole in the frunk trim and half-a-hole in the detachable trim can prevent the adjusters from falling apart. The detachable trim is easy to replace when you eventually sell the car, but...

TBH, these 'remote adjusters' are more trouble than they are worth. I had them and removed them. I made like 1.5"-wide holes for them and they still moved enough to put sideways pressure on the actual knobs and popped those (with the little ball that makes the actual clicks getting lost as a...

Idk, a Tesla did well in AS @Crows Landing. We had one show up and did okay on RT660s. He was on Konis with front sway for some reason. I think the car can trophy in a competitive field in competent hands. It's not a top dog, sure.

Interesting. I guess I could get the spring perches off RW to accommodate stock springs and use my shocks in a stock class if I so wanted. One issue though someone should verify is 13.5.D rule on bumpstop engagement.

Talked to an actual tire engineer today at an autox event. Did not get much enthusiasm from him on the inner sidewall collapse theory. But he did suggest an interesting theory. The inner edge wear could be due to what the unloaded side is doing. With open diffs, the unloaded inner tire is...

That can't possibly have been it. If your wheel/rim moves against the hub, your wheels nuts aren't properly tightened.

In a static picture of a tire on a hypothetical testing rig where you apply a friction force along the tire tread, I can see how the inner sidewall can buckle more in the case of a stretched tire. I just cannot visualize how can it happen on a cornering car. There's the angle between the wheel...

I guess you're right in general. Looked through a book I had bookmarked (page 500). Maybe the super-soft rubber is somewhat different, since I've now observed suspiciously low energy consumption on brand spanking new autox tires for the first 20-30 miles at least twice now.

Retest at 200-300 miles or later if you want your results to mean anything. New unscrubbed tires overstate efficiency. I once observed like <250Wh/mile on new unscrubbed RT660s (200 treadwear tire) on the way to an autocross event, and like 350 on the way back. Regular tires won't have as big...

How can the inner sidewall buckle more mechanically, unless one has too much static or dynamic camber? Already heavily-loaded suspension bushings (or bearings) don't have that much give, IMO.

Idk, I did measure geometric motion ratios crudely around stock ride height and got 0.63/0.6 front/rear. Those numbers roughly matched what I got from lower arm hole ratios and coilover inclination angles. MPP/RW claims I've seen are generally about the spring perch offset <-> amount of...

@gearchruncher measured the front one much closer to 0.6.

I'm gonna quote this reply in this topic, cause it's more relevant here. I seem to recall calculations just a few pages ago in this topic that suggested 900+ front rate just to get to 2hz. Did you perhaps re-measure the motion ratios or unsprung weights more accurately? Thanks

I think it could be camber. -3.5 degrees is too much for autox IMO, especially with more caster. I had tons of inner wear on 295 and 305-wide tires. I'm probably dialing it down to start the season.

Tirerack also did the same test in 2022 and ended up with the 225->245 change yielding slightly slower laps in the dry. In the 2023 test linked above, the 225->245 move resulted in a hair faster time...

TBH, if one were to invest tons of time/effort/$$ into research/testing to squeeze the extra 0.1s out of tires, it may still be worth it instead to invest the same resources into seat time/driver education for likely higher payoff. Unless one is already an alien-level autoxer. Tire testing is...

Extrapolating between different cars is pretty hard. Our wheels/tires are not 40% larger than 17"/25-ish inch rolling diameter tire on the Tirerack's BRZ. There's only one way to tell - test it on the car you intend to run. Anything else is just guessing. I would also take Tirerack's results...

Would not recommend in a state where it rains more than a few times per year. It gets quite sketchy in the wet after only a bit of wear.

So, an AS Model3 did pretty well at the Texas tour. Thoughts? The courses looks to have a had a slow corner or two, but otherwise seemed pretty fast/flowing.

What's the difference?

Correction, I tried 10/11 setup. Redwood HPDE setup is 10/13k.

I have Redwood's shocks with 7/11 and 11/13 spring sets. I did actually try 11/11 and it was predictably somewhat more understeery, with little perceived benefit in putting the power down on autox courses. I think street comfort (at least on RW-tuned shocks) is largely a function of front springs.

Probably a question for the Autox thread. If you care more about HPDE times, then sure, your lap times will likely benefit from wider fender/tires/wheels. For autox, getting fenders takes you into XS, with a lot tougher PAX (which is driven by other faster cars in the class). If you care about...

So, the recent Fastrack has a 'clarification' on the toe arms + camber arms. Appears to say that just one arm allowed...

Why are people happy about the adjustable suspension? Short of a well-tuned magneride (which Tesla won't install), it's probably not gonna be too useful, will carry extra weight, and make installing an aftermarket one marginally more involved. Even worse if it's an air suspension.

I have those for the purpose of adding caster. They are fine, but on a stock car I'm not sure they are worth it. They will introduce extra wear on ball joints in the same arm, which are not serviceable. One those start knocking, you'll need a new arm. Torn OEM bushings are likely still working...

How old is your bar? Some early ones apparently rubbed even with stock caster. This may be relevant. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/up-front-sway-bar-endlink-rubbing.184989/

I'm sure people here will appreciate a pic of the wheel edge to knuckle clearance.

Probably the 20x11 +26 wheel. Any spacers required up front to clear the upright?

Why can't they source from Tesla?

Sign up for free at Tesla Service, and you'll find the specs.

A 275-wide tire with 27.5" OD may also rub in more places under suspension compression and/or under full steering lock. If you add spacers, those clearances will shrink. If you can return those tires, I would do so. If you're stuck with them: It looks like it may be barely rubbing, so if you...

For a 14x1.5 stud, Tirerack recommends a minimum of 7.5 turns, so you're okay. Put at least some rubber covers on those open-ended OEM lug nuts tho.

If no cords are showing, you can probably flip those Stones and get a few more events with just a touch less grip. My RT660s did not last much more than RE71RS. I'd probably get Conti Force or Kumho V730s if I wanted a long-lasting tire. Be prepared to be 1+ second off pace on a 60 second...

A quick search seems to suggests that he runs with a small club in Northern coastal California. They seem to have a single main autox lot that's on the smaller side, which is located right by the ocean and has a pretty worn asphalt pavement. I'd venture a guess that the average race time ambient...

How high? Does it have to be rubber? What hardness? Explain exactly what's needed to reproduce it on your end. I regularly park my front wheels on 1.5-2.0" wooden planks so that my lift arms could fit under the car. I've never had this 'bug' happen when backing off those planks.

They've gutted the XA/B exclusion list tho, so that class might turn out to be heavily modded C8s, NSXs or P-cars...

Sounds like they want us to annoy the locals in AS.

Now that's a finely tuned butt dyno.

50% SOC vs 70% SOC shouldn't feel any different at launch. A warm battery, however, would feel faster. One can precondition the battery at home, either via the scheduled departure time, or by navigating to the nearest supercharger. For the latter one would have to sit in the car while the...

That looks normal-ish. I pulled some of my autox Test-n-Tune logs where I launched with a similar SOC late in the day. Your 0-40mph times looks very similar to mine (done in August) measuring from the time the speed moves off zero. However, in your log it takes like ~0.5-0.8sec for throttle to...

That might be right, but the issue was reported around the time the capacity was bumped from 79 to 82 kWh. The car was limiting power quite severely, which was very visible in the bulk of the power bar up top being replaced with a dashed line (unavailable). OP: post a picture of the Tesla...

I vaguely remember there being cold-ish weather performance issues when the P battery was transitioned from LG to Panasonic. I thought those were fixed via software later, but maybe your car thinks it still has a LG pack?

Either that or the traffic aware acceleration settings are set to aggressively intervene.

Those rings look problematic. It's possible that the little ridge at their bottoms is got squished during mounting and is precluding a proper contact between the wheel and the hub. I'd pull one wheel and look. Or post a picture of the gap you think you see between the wheel and the hub. Do not...

No he doesn't. Rings that clear the step are just fine. All the rings do is help approximately center the wheel during mounting. Actual centering is done by lugs however. Zero reason to overpay for rings with special machining for the lip.