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After contacting Tesla, they recommended that I do a scroll wheel restart, which solved the problem. @gabikentu have you tried that yet? Just hold down the two steering wheel scroll wheels until the main screen goes black. Eventually a Tesla symbol will appear, then the screen will come back up.

We are having a similar issue with our 2017 Model X. Just started happening a few weeks ago. Our Model 3 shows up fine. Already tried deleting and reinstalling the app, along with reboots. I’ve got a service request in, so we’ll see what they say.

What’s the little cross for after 2.9 sec? Is it to say that it is with rollout or without? Edit: found it: †Acceleration 2.9 s 0-60 mph with rollout subtracted

My theory (that I just came up with after reading the recent comments): The M3L will be above $55k until they get their domestic battery supply bottlenecks resolved for the lower specs of the Model 3. Once the LR and SR are eligible, they’ll drop the M3L price to be eligible as well. Then you...

You could ask MPP if they recommend any shops in your area. I had one quote for $900 for the same job (SF Bay Area)

Anyone want some wheels? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/wto/d/sacramento-2024-model-plaid-performance/7729537598.html

There’s more in this thread. Sounds really promising! https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/finally-dynamic-power-management-for-wall-connector.320705/ Here’s the description on Tesla’s site...

The end is near… https://www.expressnews.com/business/article/delorean-tax-break-bexar-county-jobs-18596407.php

Sorry, I wasn’t specific enough. The Ingenext web app reports a time based on your most recent 0-60 run. How close is it to what a Dragy (or other device) shows? See the circled item in the picture.

Has anyone compared the 0-60 time estimate on the Ingenext app to a Dragy (or similar device)?

Yup, pure speculation by me in this thread titled “Model 3 Highland Performance/Plaid Speculation” Now, if this thread was a wishlist, that’d be different.

I agree about the driving feel. My last two fun cars were a Miata and a RX-8, both nimble on their feet and relatively “underpowered”. But, since this is about speculation as to what’s actually going to be built, I thought I’d put my guess in. There’s a prize for whoever gets closest, right?!

None. It puts it below the quickest M3, which is 2.8s https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a43389602/2023-bmw-m3-competition-xdrive-edition-50-jahre-by-the-numbers/

Total wild guess, but I’d speculate that the Ludicrous Model 3 will have the battery and motor combo to drop the 0-60 half a second, so about 2.6s. That would put it below the BMW M3 times, which is the bogey for this class of cars. Quarter mile drops by around a full second and is mid 10’s...

It’s pretty involved and I believe requires the back glass to come off. I was lucky enough to get it fixed as a goodwill item for free through Tesla as they agreed it was already damaged when they sold it to me (looks like the previous owner had glued it down, which failed after I got the car)...

The user manual can be found on their website (along with installation details). The interface is done through your phone when you hook through wifi directly to the module. The manual has some images of the interface along with the description of the features (ghost specific is towards the back...

FYI, 20.9 is now noted as safe on their website. https://ingenext.ca/pages/safe-tesla-updates-for-boost50-and-bonus-module

Here’s a link to the Tesla touch up paint kits: https://shop.tesla.com/product/paint-repair-kit

FYI, when you are at 100%, the car can simulate the feel of regenerate braking by automatically blending in the mechanical brakes: “To experience the same amount of deceleration whenever you release the accelerator pedal, regardless of the state of the Battery, you can choose to have the...

Any idea on weight and dimensions of the box? I’m possibly interested, but I’m not sure how bad shipping would be across the country.

Cracked windshield, new tires, touch up paint for the easily curbed wheels…that’s about it as far as problems/maintenance go in almost 5 years of Model 3 ownership. Definitely the most reliable car I’ve owned! Edit: I forgot that I also replaced the 12V battery once (under warranty) and the...

I heard about the suction cup thing, too, but couldn’t find one that would work (I tried a couple)

Yeah, I was talking about the little center cap. I ended up taping part of the wheel around the cap with painters tape and using a couple of little screwdrivers to pop out the cap (thanks @ewoodrick). No marring of the wheel, but a couple of the caps have tiny marks on them, which you can’t see...

I’m trying to figure out a way to get the center caps off my aero wheels, but haven’t had much luck. Are there any tips on how to do it without taking the wheels off? I’ve tried a couple of different suction cups (no luck) and sticking gorilla tape on and pulling up (got one off, but the rest...

I actually noticed the 17-85 weirdness where it wanted to exit on Lark the other day, too. Ended up ignoring nav, of course.

What’s it cost at Driveway for the install?

Okay, I figured someone had done it. Here’s Bjorn:

You know, an easy test for drag reduction by lowering could be done with any Model X or S with air suspension. Drive on the freeway at a given speed for a given stretch at very low height, then do the same thing at normal. Repeat a couple of times. This sounds like something that someone would...

Do your tires have acoustic foam? I had issues with the foam causing vibrations at 70+ mph. Started suddenly one drive. Didn’t go away until I got new tires.

You’re selling for $475, but the price for new is $420 at the link you provided. Am I missing something, or did you mean to put a lower price?

My old Volt had a flexible rubber air dam as part of the front bumper assembly that extended pretty low. It scraped on speed bumps and driveways, but it was designed for the abuse. So, maybe something similar? Here’s a diagram that shows it on an Amazon listing: Genuine GM 20993998 Radiator...

I’m pretty sure the piece just in front of the tailgate glass is plastic, so I’ve kept the Rain-X off that panel.

Any chance that other color options will become available? I don’t have blacked out trim, so I don’t like how the black wheel covers look. Space Gray (like the OEM Aeros) or silver would be nice.

FYI, you can buy touch up paint that’s pretty much an exact match for the aero wheels (even though it’s for a Ford color). It’ll really help cover up the curb rash. Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://a.co/d/8EhhgOk

Their test car hasn’t yet received it to confirm (I reached out to Ingenext to ask)

I’ve been using a Jeda hub for about a year and a half with no problems. Not sure what the power ratings are, but you can contact them to find out. https://getjeda.com/product/jeda-usb-hub/

I’ve had good luck with Sunnyvale, although I’m not sure if they do bodywork in house (which is a few of your items). You may want to ask in the California subforum: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/forums/california.89/

Since you previously had problems with the latch, did you ever bring it in to have it looked at while you were still under warranty?

Has the MCU already been updated? If not, that might be a good idea, especially if it has already been subsidized by $750.

Did you mean “$180K 500 mile”?

I noticed that the level two seat heating does seem hotter after the switch to the v11 software. I used to use level two a lot, but now I mostly use one.

Buy the Performance and, if you do find the range/ride isn’t what you want, I bet you could trade for some 19” rims right here on this very forum, and you might even make some $$$ in the process. Also, the resale value should be higher on the Performance. When I bought my LR AWD, the price...

Also, if you aren’t under warranty and need to pay out of pocket, you might as well get your MCU upgraded (if you hadn’t yet already done it).

Multiple folks in this thread with 2.5 report not getting Tesla Vision (starting on page 4): https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-vision-coming-to-radar-equipped-cars-on-2022-24-6.278603/

One other thing to consider is if you go from HW2.5 to 3, you’ll be moved over to Tesla Vision (no more radar) with the latest software update (2022.24.6). Maybe they are doing the HW upgrade for free to get more of the fleet on Tesla Vision?

Is it just me, or is it weird to see it in a painted color? Sure seems like if they are going to have it painted, the show car should at least be silver.

Okay, I had the same problem (2017 X) and did the same fix (12V battery disconnect) and everything works now. But, what I want to know is for those that had the problem, did it come back or is it more of a once in a blue moon kind of thing?

Same problem for me. Same solution worked as well (rebooting by holding the two steering wheel buttons). Never had that issue before, so hopefully the latest download solves it. The issue came up when I was on 2022.12.3.2.

Once I returned last night with tools, I ended up disconnecting the two ball joints with a narrow screwdriver and tucked the strut in just below the wiper (passenger side). Worked well and then the frunk could close, so I drove it home. I contacted the installer who had installed it back in...