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Yeah that is true, what I do is I've connected my car to the wifi hotspot on my phone so if my phone has service and the car doesn't I can still access it. But 99.9% of the time I don't place my key fob inside the car so it's a non-issue. For the OP says it's while at the gym so it's pretty...

That just the way the system works by design. I dono why they wrote the code to make it work that way, they just did 🤷‍♂️

Naw naw naw open the drivers door, set the key fob in the center console, push the lock button on the BIG MAIN DASH screen top left corner (not the app) close door. Handles will retract and it will be locked

Hahahaha all the comments are technically correct, (which is the best kind of correct) but there is an easier way. On the screen in the top left there is a lock icon tap that with the door open, set the key anywhere inside the car and shut the door. The key is now locked inside the car and you...

I'll park in a gas station spot if it's not busy and wash my windshield if I'm out of the spray cleaner I usually use while Supercharging. But yeah sometimes I see vids like that and it's hard to believe people are that stupid then I encounter someone that is definitely stupid enough to do that...

On my S I put some old screen door mesh up there to protect the radiator. Works great, only worth doing if you already have the bumper off first though. But I have a nosecone the newer cars have much less open surface area that needs protection

No updates, last thing was what he said last Thurs. But I'm pretty sure they dont work weekends so it's only been a couple days. "Getting conflicting readings on testing but trying to get some consistency on the suspected fault areas before removal. Don't expect it to be so intermittent" If I...

Update: I trailered it to a shop and it was dead couldn't drive it off the trailer just tow mode only. He cleared the error and it turned on so it's an intermittent problem aka the ****ing worst kind of problem. Obviously something is wrong, but as to what who knows. He is gonna try and...

Yeah I got USAA towing but I don't know the distance limit

The guy I'm gonna take my car to is asking if you opened the packs as part of your process or if you just took straight 100 packs and put them in after getting them from wherever. I'm assuming you opened them up to check each module to verify everything was straight, but he's curious.

Had a guy look remotely at the car via toolbox, here is the gist of it. So the fault is indicating an open circuit in the hv system so we could be dealing with a broken wire bond. The voltage differential was 1.36 volts that’s pretty extreme. Without any other symptoms leading up to it and as...

I was leaning on the uhaul auto transport but **** it I can ask never thought of it

Both of them, haven't decided yet. They both have nearly identical pricing and when it comes to the distance it's also close enough to be the same. Leaning towards ponderosa though

I'm in contact with a shop that has an acceptable estimate. Still waiting to hear back from Tesla the longer the better because getting the car to the 3rd party shop is gonna be a logistical PITA, well more like annoyance due to the process of getting it moved. Working between family members on...

I dono they don't want anyone messing with the HV system I see it as very likely they would blacklist the car if they found out a 3rd party did HV work on it. Now if you could find some proof or something to that effect

Because I didn't know what was wrong with it and I was hoping it was another drive unit.

If they find out I had 057 do the pack upgrade they will very likely refuse to work on the car and mark it as a salvage and remove DC fast charging making the car useless. That is not a risk I am willing to take

do you know any competent shops in North CA? Tesla just called me and said they cant go back past 2019 with service records, but his GM might have access to the older records. i said it was prob done in like 17-18 while i was in NC. So when they cant find the invoice because it doesn't exist...

The $23k battery was a choice it wasn't required my stock 85 pack was in perfect health. But if I buy a new car I'll have to pay $100/yr for traffic and music (which is currently free) I'd have to pay for supercharger which is currently free and today k took my loaner to a SC and damn it woulda...

Because the new models don't have the features the old ones do

I got the air suspension so I got that going for me

Well… About a year or two ago I asked for the complete service history for my car. They said the records only go back 3 years and gave me those. Well not so much they only go back 3 years as to say they gave me everything they had and it stopped at 3 years. I spoke to the service manager at a...

Ok thanks and the 350v pack is that the 100 pack with 2 mods removed?

WTF how the hell is it that fast‽ I mean that's awesome but damn. This is the charge rate for my 100 pack. Any chance you could grab the part number off the invoice from yours? I mean I'm hoping I can get them to give me the 100 pack since the software and hardware says 100 and my story is...

whats the SC speed at 50% SoC? With my old nerfed 85 pack it was 50kW at 50% which is one of the many reasons i did the 100 upgrade. Also before tesla nerfed the 85 pack at 50% it was getting 72kW which was acceptable, not nearly as fast as the 100 (50% is 100kW) but it was acceptable. If your...

doesn't apply to me but i'd be interested in the free SC transfer if they offered that again (ended 31 Mar 2024) also i wish they would offer transfer of premium connectivity along with free charging. Although ive been thinking i have 50GB a month of hotspot data with ATT i dont think the car...

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/car-is-dead-after-unplugging-at-supercharger.325084/#post-8194122

to clarify i just double checked, it was may 5 of 2023 i took delivery of the upgraded car, and it failed yesterday after about 33k miles

hahaha i totally did, too bad the company is gone and i exceeded the 25k miles of the warranty anyway

this is what I'm thinking, if they offer me a new 100 pack for around $15k i'll take it and roll. if they refuse to give me anything but an 85 pack. ill buy a different tesla. I'm looking around and if im gonna buy another one im buying it through tesla because i dont trust people to sell an EV...

Welllll *sugar* *sugar* *sugar*. Tesla said the main HV pack is bad and needs replaced. They asked if I ever took it to a 3rd party shop I of course said no because they saw the 100 pack in it. He asked if it was a salvage or if I ever took it to a shop for collision damage and it has never been there so...

Potentially yes, we'll see what the shop says is broken. It does have the U model in there right now too. If it's the front motor that would suck but it does have 204k miles on the stock front motor. If it's the main pack I'm just glad the price of BTC is up because that's my Tesla parts savings...

Well damn thats not good. Although a front motor is cheaper that a battery. But yeah I got the pack from @wk057 around 172k miles so like 35k miles ago and 11 months. Although when the motor went out last time it had coolant errors, and the time before it had similar errors.

TL;DR Well it's dead again kinda curious what it is hopefully the rear motor since it's under warranty. Today I was charging as normal at a supercharger and I unplugged then get in the car and got the ding ding oh **** sound. Vehicle unable to start, acceleration and top speed reduced...

It's a build quality thing, N2itive are Forged aluminum vs other companies using cast aluminum. While cast is strong it's not nearly as durable as forged. I have the truhart front UCA and they are cast. So far they have worked fine but it's clearly a lower quality part from bushings to the lack...

N2itive is where you need to go. I installed their camber and toe arms on my car and it was an amazing upgrade well worth the money. Other companies make them as well but when looking at the build quality it's hard to not recommend N2itive. You can pay a shop to do the work but it's a pretty...

The millage is low for a 2016 I'd definitely get out and put some miles on it try to get a good 20k or so on as soon as possible to prevent things from failing so fast. Low miles means things like motors and other random components will likely take a *sugar* if you don't pump those numbers up...

Yes you loose range while towing its about 40-60% depending on the terrain and the weather. Most of my charge stops i'll go to 60-85% and then drive down to 10-15%. I usually don't go over 63 but occasionally i'll hit 70mph i set ABRP to 65 mph with a usage of 600 wh/mi and that is quite...

My stock rear sub has finlly crapped out at 10 years and 205k miles. I'd prefer just a drop in replacement no need to get all crazy and wire in an amp and crap like we all did to the cars in high school, just want a 1 for 1 swap. I've always had good luck with kicker and Pioneer equipment...

That's a terrible deal. My car has 204k miles on it with the factory brake pads from 2014. I do need to get around to turning the rotors but that's $20 each if I just take the rotors to the machine shop. Don't waste your money by going to the stealership to get unnecessary work done.

Low mileage on an older car is bad for any Tesla. The lower the mileage on older cars the more prone they are to things breaking from lack of use

My 2014 P85D rear motor lasted till 172k miles. But now I'm seeing this potential buy car is a non-P model so it just has 2 of the small cantaloupe motors not the 2 watermelon butted to each other and 1 cantaloupe motors. Still low mileage though

95k miles on a 2015 is NOT high miles so there may be some issues since it wasn't driven a lot. If it had 150k-180k miles I'd say hell yeah buy it and don't look back. But with low mileage like that you're probably gonna have a motor go out soon along with other things failing

Also with the nosecone being seen less and less you will occasionally turn heads as some people never saw the nosecone before and one guy called my car the OG today 😂

I had this same problem with a model 3 loaner. The only way to stop the AP nag warning is to put enough pressure on the wheel that it disabled AP because it thought I was trying to take over. Basically I couldn't use AP at all because it wasn't registering my hand torque on the wheel. In my car...

With a trailer hitch of course. It's not rocket surgery same as towing with any vehicle

Sooooo glad I have AP1 it's once again superior to AP2+ Mine will disable AP for the rest of the drive but no matter how many times she nag comes up or it gets disabled for the current drive it's good to go after a stop, park, drive 10 seconds stop at most.

When the fob is programmed they need all fobs present. Since the missing one wasn't present it is no longer programmed to the car.

Ok I need to swap my snow tires to summer tires this week, so I'll lube them up while I got the rims off.

My air suspension light keeps coming on every couple drives recently. I can still adjust the car up and down on the screen and it works as it should and it auto levels when I'm stopped like it's supposed to. I don't hear any air leaks while parked and it seems to be working normally. In service...