Search results

Just how accurate does it need to be for this situation, where the goal is to get and idea of how fast the battery would be drained with the headlights on? I have a UNI-T UT210E clamp style meter. This is a relatively inexpensive mid-quality brand. On the 20A and 100A DC ranges, the accuracy is...

Or, if you can isolate the wire supplying the power, use a clamp on DC current meter. Then, there's no need to insert a conventional ammeter inline. https://www.google.com/search?q=clamp+on+dc+current+meter Actually, you could probably just clamp the meter around the positive wire from the low...

This is how the Bancroft, Ontario, Canada station was done, as well. Even better, the sides aren't blocked, allowing trailered access. https://maps.app.goo.gl/kk5AcujfWq7jtS717 Similarly, Pickering, Ontario https://maps.app.goo.gl/qRA1jTvqZNc1Q1g6A

The J3400 (NACS) specification includes a standard for "carry-along" level 2 AC cables. The EVSE side is always J3068 "Mennekes". The vehicle side can be J3400, J1772 or J3068. https://www.sae.org/blog/j3400-NACS-standard-rodney-mcgee

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/pre-post-2020-18%E2%80%9D-wheel-difference.316300/

So then I guess we need Autounpark. ;)

Not for me in most cases. When backing in you're usually moving from a large area to a small area (at least when it's most difficult). When backing out, you're likely to have a large area to back into (though there's the issue of visibility of other moving vehicles and pedestrians).

For a human, pulling in forwards is generally a fair bit easier that backing in, so the benefit of Autopark wouldn't be that great. Personally, I would probably never use it for this.

Touch the map orientation icon at the top right to switch between Heading Up, North Up or Route Overview.

Except... It used to be that you wouldn't get the "Why did you disengage?" message if you disengaged within a certain distance (500 feet or so?) of your destination. Now I find that I always get the message even if I've disengaged because I've reached my destination and FSD has come to a full...

Infinity + 1 still = infinity ;)

It's kind of a Catch 22 situation. People don't buy hardware security keys because of the limited number of sites that support them. Sites don't go to the trouble of implementing support because few people use them. FWIW, some sites I've used that support them: Discourse based forums. (At...

I would like to use 2 factor authentication (2FA) when I log in to this site but having to enter a code from an authenticator app or received email is inconvenient and time consuming. I have a Google Titan security key that I use for many other site logins and I am wondering if the ability to...

If a LockChime.wav file has been successfully read from a USB drive and is working, it will be stored somewhere in the car's built in memory. You can remove the USB drive and the custom sound will still play. Therefore, if a LockChime.wav file with different contents doesn't work or isn't found...

I can only guess that it's not able to read or handle the new sound for some reason. You could try downloading and trying a different sound that's in the proper format. If that works then you need to take a closer look at your own new file...

If you haven't done this, try: Select one of the built-in lock sounds then lock your car and make sure it plays that sound. Now, select the custom lock sound and see if it picks up the new sound when you lock the car.

You can't subscribe (yet) in Canada, though the ability to subscribe is supposed to be coming fairly soon. If not purchased, @Struja would be without FSD until then. https://driveteslacanada.ca/news/tesla-fsd-subscription-coming-to-canada-in-a-few-weeks/

I thought my post above was pretty clear. If you have a custom lock sound enabled (either built in or from USB), you won't get the "single horn beep on lock" or the "double horn beep on unlock". "Lock Confirmation Sound" will be automatically disabled. You will only get your selected custom...

Isn't that what I've said above?

No it wasn't. It would have been a Gen-4 ECU number 1537264-80-B, which doesn't have CCS components installed, and it was replaced with a Gen-4 ECU number 1537264-00-B, which is complete with the CCS components installed. There is currently no official way to replace a Gen-3 ECU with a Gen-4...

But note that you have a 2021 model, which already had a Gen-4 ECU without CCS, which was replaced with a Gen-4 ECU with CCS. @MacNeil has a 2018 model, which will have a Gen-3 ECU. A Gen-3 equivalent ECU with CCS is not currently available for purchase from Tesla and likely won't be until...

Get a sturdy camera monopod or some other pole or rod with adjustable length. Put some kind of strap or bracket on the top that can hold the charger cable. (For a camera monopod there will be a screw that you can use to help hold the strap or bracket in some way.) Adjust the length and wedge it...

Apparently, with the latest vehicle software updates, a mention of 3rd-party NACS is showing up on the Additional Vehicle Information screen, where it used to only say whether CCS capability was installed or not. OEM CCS adapter now available to order in North America, Retrofit for older cars...

Related to this, the owner's manual includes the following note:

If it's the same as with the previous versions: Carpet floor mats included with the LR. No mats included with the RWD.

In the same category but maybe not so obvious (and as with the previous versions): Battery type: RWD - LFP, LR - NCA Maximum AC charging current: RWD - 32A, LR - 48A

No, not weird. Others have reported that this is the way it works. I'm guessing Tesla wanted to make sure that it sounds even if your flash drive fails (or is removed).

Yes, enabling a custom lock sound will disable the "Lock Confirmation Sound" (one honk for lock and two honks for unlock), and vice versa. And, if you then disable the one that's enabled, it won't automatically enable the other if it was previously enabled, so you have to do that manually.

In the mean time, maybe you could come up with some kind of opaque covers for the headlights. I'm thinking you could use suction cups to hold them on.

Does it turn on the hazard lights when it stops for this reason? If not it would be a good (and easy) thing to add.

You can get aftermarket extensions that make the exterior door handles more like "regular" handles. E.g.: https://www.rpmtesla.com/products/model-3-y-anti-freeze-door-handle-extensions-set-of-4

If you're comfortable using the command line, you can use SoX (Sound eXchange). For example: sox original.wav LockChime.wav vol 1.5 will increase the volume to 1.5 times that of input file original.wav and save the result to file LockChime.wav

Make sure you're not experiencing this problem: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/custom-lock-sound-file.318199/

Put the new sound on the flash drive with file name LockChime.wav then put the flash drive back in the car. Enable the Lock Sound and select one of the built-in sounds. It should play. Re-select USB for the sound. It should play and be your new sound.

It's likely that the TESLA pattern is built into the car's software that runs the light show. If so, there wouldn't be any commands that could be sent to change the pattern.

Controls > Locks > Lock Confirmation Sound You can have Boombox > Lock Sound or Locks > Lock Confirmation Sound, or neither, but not both. This means that with Boombox > Lock Sound enabled you can't get the unlocked (double horn beep) sound.

But it does say: To avoid losing video footage, pause Dashcam before removing the flash drive. I can't think of anything other than Dashcam video that's written to the drive, so pausing it should stop all USB write activity, and pulling during reading shouldn't cause any damage.

You should update your original post to add an image of the new A2Z Thunderstorm adapter and maybe remove the photo showing the older A2Z adapter in use.

It does. Press and hold the Dashcam icon in Controls. This will set the dashcam to paused mode. From the manual, in the Dashcam section:

Because that would mean that Tesla would have to acknowledge that there was a problem in the first place. ;)

I think pretty soon Tesla is going to have to add an option to upgrade without including the adapter, to allow non-CCS compatible cars to work with non-Tesla fast DC chargers with NACS connectors. They could call it something like full NACS compatibility upgrade. I suppose they could still...

With the caveat that the shop knows the specifics of servicing Tesla brakes. The brakes themselves are pretty standard but you have to consider: Raising the car using the proper jack points (and pucks if necessary). Having a socket for the kind of uncommon 21mm wheel lug nuts. How to put the...

TACC Activation

It's common in Canada. My kitchen has three split outlets., each on it's own 15A 2 pole 240V (120V per side) breaker, with 3 conductor (2 hot, a neutral, plus ground) 14 gauge wire. A newer alternative, which could be more common now, is to install a single pole 20A breaker and receptacle with...

Just another confirmation. I have the newer 18" wheels and covers with the all season tires that came with my 2021 M3 LR and the older wheels and covers for the snow tires I bought for it. Both type of covers fit both type of wheels. The Aero Wheel Caps (which I have as well) also fit both old...

Sure; and also with the Tesla Gen. 2 Wall Connector. However, the OESC bulletin I referred to states that A cover or door that requires the use of a tool to access the adjustments is considered to be restricting user access, thus is acceptable. And the ESA likes to try to prevent people from...

And as I said: Note the words Some and interpreted. Referring to Ontario Electrical Safety Code bulletin 86.1.5 regarding electrical vehicle charging systems: Section 4 discusses an adjustable EVSE, like the Tesla Wall Connector: Note the part that reads: Restricted access shall prevent the...

True. I only have a 100A service but did the load calculation and found that I could (just barely) add a 40A circuit for the NEMA 14-50 outlet and Mobile Connector. (I don't have A/C or electric heat or other high loads.)

No, it's not just a load sharing issue. It's the fact that even with only one Wall Connector, its maximum current setting can be changed remotely through software instead of having to open the unit and change it physically. Something in the electrical code implies that this is not allowed...