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if u selling soon, i'd suggest just drilling a weep hole, took me all like 30min to do it that will extend the life by a lot esp if its not leaking yet for installing actual bypass manifold (or DIY it) it will just take the labor hours of removing/installing LDU its pretty invasive job, remove...

so apparently there's an easter egg cool graphic if u drive over 100mi n beat the epa it only showed for few seconds, so i didn't screen capped it.. i haven't been able to recreated due to lack of long trips with good consuption has anyone else seen it?

i just ran it and it said insufficient data (even tho i had long trip n it worked before) then i checked and hour later n it showed the graph, so maybe a global glitch going around... also see this thread...

looks like axle seals seeping oil a bit for that mileage its not too bad could replace if u want or keep an eye on it

not sure what u referring to? link? u asked for help, u got it, u need to fix f123 not sure what else ur looking for...

they probably meant SC05 SC01s are hard to come by now cause most ppl transferred them out to new cars... she's right, if u don't SC a lot its not worth overpaying for it

its sad to read these kind of stories not sure why tesla just wants to replace full suspension all the time... probably cause of so many complains n bad troubleshooting that they just replace everything so they only have to do it once... post ur quote please i seriously doubt ur...

i bought the complete used mirror for $350 like 2yrs ago if ur colored cap is intact it comes off, also the glass comes off u can find lots of used good condition bases on eBay replacement is not hard but a bit tedious to insert base/harness in the door..

this happened few times i read most likely it was loaner car only tesla can fix it

most likely blower fan bushings/bearings

what do u think about leaving the seal running dry in this case?

u must be the only person that wants that lol i guess u can try to trade with someone that wants the opposite? i believe all the chrome pieces are the same?.. or at least most of them...

good to know i was just always under impression that backfeeding voltage to the circuit is not a good idea but maybe its ok in this case since regen technically does same thing...

u can hook up 12v jump n put the car in tow mode (chuck the wheels first) to get it ready for tow also roll the drivers window (or any other u plan to open) an inch down to prevent accidental window break (since it won't drop down without power) u can take a peek at service mode n see what...

Aren't u suppose to disconnect those first? Otherwise you'll be sending 500v thru inverter as well... Could be bad for inverter or at least skew the result...

i second 12v battery or jump when u lose hv, 12v will slowly die n shut off screens first, leaving lights n such still working till it completely dies this is done on purpose in case ur stuck on the road u want ur hazards to work till last breath...

Didn't see if there's a tracking thread for charge rates so making a new one Was surprised to see such high rate on recent long trip Its v3 90kwh pack (part # 108*) with ~10% degradation (231mi @ 100%) Cells were just hot from driving, no battery heater was on before or during. Didn't...

It Does not Their manifold mimics Tesla plus adds option to do oil cooling

nice, thanks for feedback n pics were u able to get to both tube ends easy? what car u have, performance or regular? cool kit but lol at 3d printed caps 😅

I would just use the cap on the inside I do not like to destroy too much of the original part since we can't source those by itself (unless u buy the whole used unit) so i wouldn't go for flanged nipple Plus it won't send any coolant up the fly over tube, not sure if its important or not yet but...

forgive me, this is one time when i didn't feel like reading 30 pages to find an answer 😅 and i guess i did miss it in the media article i read or maybe it wasn't mentioned... thank u

and how is that relevant?..

a bit pricey but great to see yet another alternative n 2 piece design...

anyone know what that was?

If its DIY, then it can be done very cheap with used part off eBay Tires are tires, every car needs them, rears do have higher inner wear due to static camber Windshield gonna cost u a pretty penny unless u ok ignoring that... LDU bypass can be done DIY for cheap (assuming its rwd car), awd...

Check prices at Tesla thru ur app, i found that a lot of parts, esp plastic, are much cheaper at Tesla vs eBay... Ur bumper might be salvageable (hard to tell by pics) but there's companies that will fix the bumper cover, might be cheaper than used Replacing front support is tedious but...

Like any moving vehicle, i'd put the car on the lift every so often (5-10k mi?..) and check for leaks, broken/loose things, etc..

not sure about autotrader but some sellers include full report, which is great i was referring to when u just google VIN on any paid sites before actually paying, they tell u some limited info, like a summary which is often incorrect...

Whats ur point? elaborate... Besides few Rivian CCS stations, i'm not aware of any other EV manufacturer having their own CCS chargers.. I've successfully charged at Electrify America and ChargePoint There's many other brands Sure uptime is not as great as Tesla SC but they do work n EV owners...

It should be same price based on others quotes but it won't leak anymore

I'm surprised they quoted -Q version and not -U, coolant delete version...

If its correct in this case then thats great i'm just saying i ran into some websites that show random data but when u purchase report its different...

but u won't get internal isolation error... any BMS error will prevent contactors from closing which will prevent 12v from charging n die pretty quick due to all other systems running off of it if u don't re-charge it right away then yes its possibly won't hold charge anymore, just how lead acid...

u can't trust that free summary.. i purchased few reports n the free summary didn't match the actual data...

Oops posted X first Here's S, 2016.11

Most likely failed battery heater... Check codes under service mode Put car in range mode, might help as temporary fix

That's a good point, i wasn't sure if the team covered US or the world...

My take is since NACS is adopted, Elon probably counting on others to expand it further... Kinda like gas stations are their own companies.. u don't see any ICE car companies owning gas stations... Eventually all chargers might be owned by 3rd parties...

yes f123 is the cause of all the other codes u will need to remove HV pack from the car, then open it to dry it (water most likely got in thru rusted fuse cover on top) its not an easy job u need to do a lot of research before u start...

i don't know why ppl keep suggesting useless 12v replacements, that will never fix anything... f123 is isolation code (if u search this error u will find my thread n many others...) go into service mode, it has more details for each code

search is ur friend... u got internal isolation error for HV pack so most likely water got inside

my 2016 90d just rolled over 100k miles (owned since 77k) so 80km is not much i have no major issues besides leaking MCU1 screens Check for coolant leak in LDU or if bypass was done, thats the biggest issue with drivetrain Some claim issues with FWD, i got zero. Inner rear tire wear is also a...

Usually when something is dependent on certain side (or other) force condition, its a good chance that its intermittent connection or wire rubbing related... I'd start with checking harnesses around front motor n frunk area for rubbing or tugging, starting with LV plug for motor... this is...

have u looked at official service manual? it should say if its needed or not but i'm pretty sure it doesn't

those black square things with 3 holes ARE the jack pads if the shop has aiming problems that's another issue...

Keep an eye on LDU tho And look into coolant delete

ask for a pic of LDU label to be completely sure, it should say 'sport' on it also google VIN, if car was listed anywhere else, u'll have another proof n set of pics under software screen > additional info, should say Induction Large for Rear drive unit check what acceleration option buttons are...

u can rig up ur own pigtail (schematics are free at tesla.com) to activate air suspension solenoids but u need to fill reservoir manually, compressor won't come on if u got no HV... if u talking about 057tech business then its been bought by other company n that company now out of business...

Awesome! was thinking about rigging up something to meas temp but this is way cooler Nice work. Looking forward to ur data from driving.

i'd say u doing extremely well with Wh/mi my 90d X has EPA of 324Wh/mi (pretty sure P90d has slightly higher rating) i can barely get EPA range on 20in wheel in dry warm weather n driving 65mph n below anything else will increase the consumption depending on the part number of ur pack u might...