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I used a lift, fully off the ground, high then jack mode. What do you mean bottom bolt? You just need to loosen the 2 upper control arm bolts you're shimming and the other 2 control arm bolts in front of those on the frame side, the toe arm doesn't need touched. It took me less than 10 mins per...

You might be able to cheat a little and get it closer, but after taking the wheels off for like the 10th time, I just set them equal. The warning came on within 1000ft of driving and hasn't been back in the past week since setting them the same length.

Ugh, I did not convert the degrees while there. I asked for 0.1° rear toe in. Since it started at 1/32", that should be possible. I called him and he said an extra 1/10 of a degree shouldn't hurt anything or cause wear and should help more under acceleration. And this is on an S. Not sure what...

Got my alignment, they just set the toe. I lowered it 3/4-1" and used the 4.8mm shims in the back. Front camber was good, rear ended up at 1.3-1.4°. Rear toe was pretty close giving the adjuster 3/4 turn clockwise. Front toe was way off, they were both pointed right. I went with slightly toe out...

That does look like it was the problem. I had the warning most of the way home from work, so I set the links to match left/right to the shortest link and went on a drive and the warning didn't come back. The adjustments didn't seem linear (the fronts were almost 4mm apart) so I'm sure the car...

I feel like it would be harder to do without removing the bolt. Without it in, that whole ear swings out of the way and you can slip the shim in. I think you'd have to do more awkward prying if that side of the arm was fixed.

Those were mine. I just ordered from your specs on the first page.

I just put lowering links on, then on the first drive I get a warning saying "Air suspension requires service - Suspension may not be level" that flashes on and off. Do the links need to be the same length, at least between both front wheels and rear wheels? I used blox links, but adjusted them...

I got mine put in today. It was easier than I thought it would be even. I put the 3mm shims in first and with a level/angle gauge on the tire, it looks like I was around 1.6-1.8° of camber. I took them out and put the 4.8mm ones in and got around 1.4-1.6°, assuming my measuring is close. The...

I have an alignment appointment in 2 weeks, so I'm going to do this next weekend and will post how it goes. I have a lift, but this looks pretty easy. For the lowering links, you just have to take the wheels off. For the shims, you just loosen the 6 control / toe arms bolts and it shouldn't be...

Zinc and aluminum are similar in galvanic potential and should not be an issue; galvanic compatibility charts show aluminum and zinc alloys as compatible. No matter what, it's a steel (non-stainless and not aluminum) bolt to be grade 10.9, so it is going to be a dissimilar metal. The only...

That sounds more questionable. I would guess it would be fine, but a band saw would probably be better. I would definitely just get a shorter bolt though.

It definitely is an M12 bolt, so the cross section is the same no matter what. If we're at least trusting whatever other vendors are sending, then it's class 10.9 which has much higher tensile strength than the off the shelf grade 5 bolt, but a class 10.9 bolt is not special. A torque to yield...

It's just a bolt. It's not torque to yield, other's have said it's 10.9, it's nothing special. Search for the torque of an M12 bolt. A grade 10.9 bolt can be torqued to 105ft lbs and this is only being torqued to 63 ft lbs. I was more worried about less thread engagement.

It seems like the consensus is the 3mm don't, but the 6mm do, so these are something in the middle. I think I read with the 3mm shim there was still like 6 threads of engagement. If I had to order them it would just be inconvenient, but If I can just go pick some up for $7 I will do that. 50mm...

I'm planning on lowering and it doesn't look like the 3mm shims will be enough. You can get a set of .190" (4.83mm) shims from send cut send for $29. Should these be fine with the stock bolts? Send cut send is the same price for 10 actually, so you could try 2 sizes for free or they also make a...

I bought the 18" wheels and they 100% clear the calipers of a MYP and have room for weights in that spot as well, but it is close.

Update: Brought it in for service, and besides them not even starting until the end of the time window given (not a big deal as we got a loaner), it was a much better experience. Nothing appears to be damaged and it looks like they were able to fix the window without messing with the door...

Well, not a great visit. In general, the guy had no idea what he was doing. He put his tools on the seat, dropped the door panel on the ground a dozen times... He got the door panel off, then said he has never seen one without the adjustment screws, so he was going to take the black...

I am only 10 mins from the service center, but my only option was to wait a week for mobile service. The passenger side, and the rears, are not like this at all. They are flush.

They are coming tomorrow, I will post what they say/do.

It's easier to see with the doors open. Yeah, I wanted to see if I could just easily adjust 2 bolts instead of waiting a week, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I sent them pictures the day I picked it and it's only 3 bolts holding the panel. I'll see what they say though.

I have not seen that. The link just says I don't have access to the file though. That looks like how to adjust front/back and up/down direction, but I need to adjust it into the car. Then if I did that, I would have to tip the top out to make up for it.

I took the door panel off, but it looks the same as the last one in the thread I posted. I don't see any obvious adjustment nuts. There is some damage to the paint, but doesn't look like the door is bent or anything. I'll just wait and let service look at it

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/adjusting-door-glass.180138/ It looks like it used to be easily adjustable, but haven't seen anyone successful on a newer car. Every mention of tesla service is not positive either, with almost every post mentioning they will break more things and likely...

My current only option is to wait a week for mobile service to come, placing a service request through the app at least. I would rather it not come to any lemon law issue, but obviously frustrating on a new car and that I missed it yesterday.

I figured. Unfortunately, I tried to check what I could, and this wasn't mentioned in the check list I used. Hopefully it's fixable then.

Hi, I just picked up my car yesterday and washed it and the driver's window is poking out from the car enough it caught my sponge and ripped it out of my hand. It's hard to get a picture of, but it's letting water past the seal. The passenger side is not like this. Is this an easily fixable...

Here's the reply I got from Fastco asking if the 18" R241s fit a model y performance: Good Afternoon Brad, Yes, the Replika R241 was designed as a replacement wheel for Tesla OEM style. They do fit the 18-inch if they are unstaggered and all the same size. They come in Black, satin grey...

Also interested in this. I emailed Fastco, but haven't heard back yet. Their site seems to confirm they do, but many retailers claim they don't.