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There's no problem slapping the door closed. It's a clutched gear mechanism. You can't grind gears or do any damage by slapping it shut, just the same as (or arguably safer than) closing a CD drawer by pushing it. It's the only way I ever closed the door (give it a good whack) for the nearly...

Aha, hey there! Yeah, I can't advise mucking about in this direction - but if you want to press on regardless, you're definitely going to have to start getting down and nerdy with it - compare charge port wiring and service info. When I first dug into mine, I got all the information I could -...

Aye, you PM'd and made a thread separately ;) Well, there are some questions I asked in PM that are answered here. The "invalidMacAddress" is more concerning to me - it means you haven't flashed it, or that has somehow otherwise gone wrong. That alert appears only on a new install, just before...

I'm guilty of mixing that up 😅 Only in the past few posts, I realized that the "navigate to a CCS, then put a Supercharger ahead of it" trick (I use multiple times a week) wouldn't work outside the SC-dense Bay Area. If the SC is too far ahead in nav, it'll just figure it's got way more time...

Actually, that came back with the 2021 holiday update -- just before V11 UI took our dreams of a coherent, bug-free user interface and shattered them on the floor. (hey, auto high beams will be usable soon, right? ... right?) I was super excited to see USB album art back again. And then it...

It was discovered (for me, shortly after the CHAdeMO adapter became compatible with the 3) that Tesla software has dumb logic for battery heating: "if the charging mode is DC, heat the battery" - target varies by battery type/chemistry but the logic is the same. End result: you waste 10-20% of...

Oh my god, YES! That sounds like incredible news - the update we've only been waiting ~4 years to hear 😂 (Just in time for me to be interested in selling the Tesla after getting past the breaking point of such issues piling up...) Of course, it'll be about another 3 months before it'll trickle...

Prox disconnected, latch disconnected, thermistor irrational... 🤔 A bit weird, like maybe your Bundle isn't fully plugged in, or maybe defective? All those signals ought to be on that connector, so it's a bit sus. I'll PM ya 😄 Might need to get a replacement... if anyone else sees these...

I'm a bit sad that I had to be the one to point it out (I very much "got the message" from TMC admin-ship that I should shut up about CCS retrofits... so I'm just here sparsely now), but yeah, CCS retrofits are registered with Tesla as "compatible", evidently. I just ordered mine today, because...

That's not the case in the battery world though. There is no "single best battery for every job". It's always a trade-off between energy density and performance -- how much energy you can cram into a single cell (of the same size/weight) varies depending on whether you want it to sustain...

Meh, you can get away with putting tiny devices directly on the 12v battery. Its draw is well within the margins of error of typical battery charging (the variance between a new and aged lead battery, etc). The car won't notice it. Tesla Service would almost definitely whine about it, though...

Not to flex, but this was my weekend, and what can _really_ be powered off a Tesla. :) A bit around 1000w of lights, and around 500w (average) of sound... all night, sunset to sunrise. 12v cigarette-lighter port? lol lol. no 😂 I can't emphasize this enough, because it's the first thing...

That line's "missing-ness" is definitely regional - I've heard that from other people in other regions as well. The presence/lack of "CCS adapter support" doesn't indicate anything by itself - it's just a visual change. The support/lack of support is still there based on the installed hardware...

You'll be baked alive in the car and then frozen to preserve your corpse. 😂 No but really, it'll get a bit hot inside, then cool. Nothing too wild. I'm pretty sure "test thermal performance" refers to power-train/battery heating and cooling, so not relevant here. You'll get a whole page of...

Everyone I've seen that's still having trouble is on FSD Beta (myself included), so still stuck on an old version (pre-2022.16.x). So, hooray, FSD Beta feature disparity bites us again :(

Given how terrible Tesla Service has been at properly handling something as simple as "I would like to buy a part and pick it up, part number: nnnnnnn-nn-n"... I feel no problem with doing whatever their incredibly limited self-service options allow. Tesla Service is digging their own grave with...

I can see how it works in my head, just by describing its existence -- it's pretty simply a resettable thermal fuse that breaks one of the lines. Breaking Prox would probably be a good way to stop charging -- throwing a plug-out fault, while giving both sides all the time they need to negotiate...

That's all kinda scary (and scares me away from it, a bit, tbh), hearing this about it being "locked at" any specific kW value. kW isn't what limits an adapter - it's amps - and I'm worried about how they're speaking in kW terms instead of amps. Something fishy going on here. (sure, kW and amps...

I've got no idea... I would first suspect the station, given the issues I'm always hearing about with CCS (and my personal experience with EVgo). "Communications errors" are incredibly uncommon, because the station doesn't usually tell you why it stopped. I'd just say, test more... also a 2018...

Yup, this is exactly why I'm a bit surprised it's such a direct copy as well - there's an open opportunity to have improved it by borrowing Tesla's mechanical pin-lock idea. It makes the adapter a little less convenient to use (can't unlock it except by going in the car and tapping the "unlock"...

20-B, no - that's the EU one. At minimum, there's a difference in how Prox is handled (same wire, different meanings), that would make it not work correctly with Type 1 plugs. As for Type 2, the car already has a Type 2 socket if it has a Type 2 ECU, right? Thus it's already got CCS, thus ?? :D...

now you've got me all curious as to what in the sam hell y'all talkin bout with that -30- thing? 😂 Maybe that's the CN ECU, for the Hydra port with 2 ports, its own CAN bus, etc etc? Haven't seen it/seen reference to it yet, so if you have deets, they'd be much loved here!

1537263-30-b - doesn't exist? Never heard of it - plus, is that number correct (*3, not *4)? In any case, I'm not familiar with a -30- variant. 1537264-00-b - this is the NA Gen4 charge port ECU, meant to be used with Gen4 cars (black trim/heat pump/etc, used on Model 3s after Oct 2020, and all...

Well--... yeah? You're using a European ECU? 😂 What's its part number? Don't tell me it's 1537264-20-B. 😂 As to those messages, the APP_ one looks like another problem elsewhere in the car. The CP_ one at the bottom is the primary issue (that causes the top DI_ one). Prox pin isn't working...

Oooh. Yeah, I remember some weird address formatting weirdness. I took some clues from this Reddit post in my case: - see the screenshots at the bottom. Any help there?

Head back into Service Mode (should be open-access after 2022.16.x - if you're not FSD Beta) and look at the Service Alerts there. You're only seeing the "customer" visible messages - the actual reason is probably hidden behind a "service-fix" message. Curious what you find...

Yeah - they provide you with your specific address, which contains a "suite" number specific to you. I would imagine they also match by name along with the suite, but otherwise just the suite is most important. So, you use the address as they provided - which, by default, ought to include your...

Oh yeah - international transactions are always a bit of a fragmented mess in US-based cards. Half my wallet won't work for international transactions, one is like "yeah works anywhere!" and it doesn't, and one (my CashApp card) actually legitimately works anywhere. 10/10 would recommend CashApp...

it's definitely not faster, and after you factor your frustration and time in, it's definitely not cheaper either, lol. Harumio is definitely the way to go, imho. I went the Delivered route, and it gave me 2 weeks of sporadic frustration, vs. the seamless Amazon-like experience of Harumio. How...

Even if Harumio is out of stock (oh no! Legit curious what happened), it still appears to be available directly from Tesla - and you can use the Delivered (re-shipping) technique instead: you sign up at Delivered to get an address (ignore all their instructions about ordering - they're wrong...

Installing it via the update is the preferred method. Using service mode is less desirable - for impatience. :) It's absolutely not required. (I just added a little blurb on this to the first post - thanks!)

Everything you (should) need to know is condensed into one post - the very first post is kept up to date. Please (to you and anyone else that comes along and gets vertigo looking at the 58 pages - rightly so), definitely read it to avoid headaches ;) If there isn't something covered in the...

Nah, if the car is telling you the wall connector's plug is getting too hot, that's a message the wall connector is sending to the vehicle through digital communication (something J1772 can't do). Best I can tell, a charge port issue will reference the "charge port", not the "wall connector"...

Everything I've seen so far indicates that there are two "gens" of Model 3 -- the first (2017-Oct 2020) is "Gen3" referring to the entire vehicle, and second (Oct 2020+) is "Gen4" again to the whole car. Gen4 happened in order to align the common parts between Model 3 and Y - thus there is no...

Electrically identical - built from the same plans. In fact there's a little room for improvement now that it's a PCBA (in next runs). If we want to go deeper with electronic wizardry, I wonder if the thermistors can be fully and properly adjusted... (something impossible to do with passive...

🤣🤣🤣 Sorry! Friday, weekday, workday... my Thursday mind thought Friday would be me-day. Nah. But I did talk about the Bundle on our fun little social "what're your weekend plans?" Friday call at work ;) So, the new Bundle was designed in collab with Bobby at 2muchsun - so the "2muchsun adapter"...

wait for an announcement tomorrow :) it's not out of stock for long...

There's been some weird info floating around various sources lately... but as of now, the status still seems to be the same: the way to retrofit a Gen3 car with a Gen4 ECU (and get CCS in the process) is to make your Gen3 port look like a Gen4 port. There's no config change that would change...

Oh, that's weird. I'd suspect something in the yellow resistor-wires in the Bundle. Possible that the solder on the resistors broke, and that's making it flicker connectivity. Want to take a look at that? Pull the wires lightly, you shouldn't feel any stretching. 🤔

Interesting point! I didn't know about that behavior -- probably because, well, see my location. haha. It never gets to truly "freezing" here. I'm not sure, but I'd suspect that, because it's Gen4, it would discard with any workarounds and would try to use the (non-existent) heater. Probably...

Tesla can't (and has never) replace(d) a Gen3 ECU with a Gen4. The "Gen" is actually part of the car's full model - so you have a Gen3 car (chrome trim, resistive heater, charge port with cables inside), or you have a Gen4 car (black trim, heat pump, charge port with tubes/conduit). One can't...

If you're going to replace it yourself, you should get up-to-it first, and get comfy pulling the panels out to access it. In the Y it's actually a whole hellova lot easier to access than the 3, it seems - from my recent experience with helping a Y owner swap ECUs, it's much more snap-and-clip...

Interesting! I'd suggest getting back into service mode (or ask service to give you a report of the service-fix faults), so you can see the underlying hidden service message - it'll detail exactly what it's complaining about/what it's sensing, and how to fix it. I would say it's unlikely to be...

Lifesaver! How did you even cross-reference that? I couldn't figure out how to coax usable info out of TE's site, so I always thought the only mating P/Ns were those two specific parts. So, it'll be a slightly different color, but YES! Ordered! And with that, they're now available again for...

okok it's time to engage the forum community ;) This is the stock situation of the pin-side housings (larger ones) of the Bundle: Has anyone out there built one of these Bundles themselves, that has additional pin-side housings laying around? I might buy them from you at a reasonably...

Nope - if any of this involved needing to touch the gateway, I would've stopped there and considered it impossible. That's nearly impossible (removing the MCU/AP box from the car, tearing it apart, attaching probes to the board, etc etc etc... truly "hacking" it), so thankfully, it doesn't need...

As far as I can tell (see the reports peppered around this thread... if you care to dig, lol), the shortage struck again this year and "-80-"s started getting put in cars again. So it's all floppy and inconsistent now. Which probably contributes to Tesla's lack of "actually making it available"...

Ah, didn't see these new posts, must've missed an earlier notification... As to this: -80-B is just a stripped version of -00-B. The "-00-B" is the original part. The -80-B was created when Tesla couldn't get enough PLC chips to keep making boards, so they designed it out (since CCS was never a...

This thread started off with me asking Tesla service to "do it for me", and I would hope to pass the info along. Verdict: they tried putting the Gen4 ECU in the Gen3 car, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. Long story short: they eventually updated their parts catalog as incompatible...

Sort of - but not quite. In that cited thread, OP simply got a new Gen4+PLC ECU in place of their Gen4 "stripped" ECU. Not a new charge port. (source: I was there in that thread, lol) As I dug-into and painfully discovered over many dollars of purchased parts, and explained earlier in the...