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I wish I knew more, but assuming you have a RWD car I can understand you wanting a bit more. The aftermarket will catch up. The model 3/Y are some of the best selling cars out there, so it's only a matter of time until there are quality options, ideally plug and play cost effective options...

Most of the speakers in the 2024 match the earlier cars with the exception of the subwoofers. What type of upgrade are you looking for? Lots of people install the Faital Pro 4FE32's or Scan Speak 10F's in the dash. For the doors the Focal ISU200 set is popular for door woofer/tweeter. (I'm...

I also use onshape, so I was able to just grab the parts you linked to. What do you need to be modified?

Awesome! Nice to see another charger get repaired vs discarded.

You do not need the wiring you linked to, (as long as you have a newer car with 16v battery, which I'm assuming you do given your initial question) just use the power under the right rear seat, you can either use the ground under the rear seat as well, or there's a good ground by the right rear...

Doing a quick look at powered subwoofers I found these that specifically say they work up to 16v https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html?tp=73251 https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html?tp=73251...

I looked through the manual, and as you said the highest voltage it mentions is 14.4v. I would be cautious and only use a product that specifically states it works up to 16v. I believe others on here have mentioned all in one solutions that are rated up to 16v, I haven't used any of these...

The sub enclosure is slightly different between the 3 and Y, your Y enclosure may not fit well in the 3. The amp is unusable at this point as the signals that feed it from the premium system just don't exist in a RWD. If you can make the enclosure fit, you could download and 3D print one of my...

I believe the part number of both subwoofer drivers is the same, so my adapter should work in the model Y. I can't speak to if the factory amp would still have clearance, but it should (if you are using it of course). The kicker you referenced looks good but I'm not sure if that would fit my...

I never saw this thread. Bass in a base M3 is definitely possible and can be done without issues If you're careful and use a fused power feed from the penthouse. I'm almost a year into having a 500W amp in the Model 3 RWD. Having said that I would caution going above 500w, and don't use an...

The basic Focal tweeter bracket is live. https://www.rwaudio.com/free-downloads I don't have an instruction sheet for it yet. Print in ABS or ASA/PETG at 0.2 to 0.28mm layer height, two walls, 3 top/bottom layers. Clamp around the tweeter and clip into the factory bracket.

I have a clamshell bracket for the tweeters, but haven't had a chance to incorporate a clip or something into the design. Happy to send it to you as is, you just have to use a dab of glue or simply carefully install them into the A pillar holder, as once it's installed it all holds together...

I'll have the design with instructions on my site for free download later this evening. www.rwaudio.com/free-downloads/

I've had a few days to live with the recent changes (out with the Focal ISU200 woofer/tweeter as well as the Kicker L7T8) installing the Dayton SIG180-4, the Hertz MP25.3 and Skar VD-8 D4. I'll start with the sub, I'm pleasantly surprised, it's low end response is fuller. I'll have to take...

Still too cold to sound deaden, that's a summer project. I'm thinking of doing the 3 layer treatment with sound deadening/closed cell foam/Mass loaded vinyl throughout the whole car. I did this years ago to a 2001 F150 and the results were pretty incredible. There's definitely some...

Weather finally got nicer here in Canada (temporarily) so I installed the Dayton Sig180 woofers in the doors, went back to the Hertz tweeters and installed the Skar sub with the kicker amp. (I'll swap in the Skar amp soon). Everything fit nicely, the Dayton Sig180 is about the deepest woofer...

The old RWD also doesn't have the same rear speaker set up as the LR, however your most noticeable improvements in quality will always come from the front. (Unless you are just referring to the lack of subwoofer). It looks like the speakers in the '24 are virtually unchanged, so upgrades...

Awesome information!!! There's some great info in this video about the 4FE35 which would be very similar to the 4FE32.

I have some information in a different thread about the Hansshow harness, wiring pinouts etc, perhaps it will be useful to you. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/7519088/

While it could work, I wouldn't put something like that in my car. I have used a product like that in a 48v scooter to provide 12v for lights and a small stereo. It worked for a while and failed on the customer, we didn't replace it, he just added a Bluetooth speaker. Quality will vary from...

Sounds like an exciting build! I haven't used it myself but the new PAC harness might be the right fit for your build. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphtsl01

Looks awesome! I'm curious to get this installed and see how it does vs the Kicker with a good amount of power.

Nice, looks like a soldering station peaking out front beneath the bench. If you are using the T245 handle switching from the generic chinese tips to genuine JBC makes a world of difference.

Awesome! With DSP you could try messing with the phase of various drivers to try and reduce your 80hz dip. Start by putting the sub out of phase with everything else, if that doesn't help put it back in phase then try the passenger door woofer out of phase, and try the sub out of phase, then...

Normal cars are lead acid or LiFePO4 for the 12v system which tops out around 14.5-15v, so most 12v electronics should work just fine up to 15v, and most amplifiers have their power rating done at 14.4v. Some amplifiers may have over-voltage protection which could kick in anywhere above 15v...

Alpine simply doesn't provide enough information, maybe it would be fine, or maybe it would blow up. In my personal opinion, it's not worth the risk. Choose a product that is rated to work with 16v

Interesting, there's quite a bit of room down there.

Sadly that's exactly what I thought they would do, and even worse you couldn't even drop in another 8" subwoofer without cutting.

I'll dig deeper into this, you already have sub signals at the back which could easily run an aftermarket amp. I have a stock amp now, so I'll pull my sub enclosure and see where I could put an aftermarket amp while keeping the stock amp.

I honestly don't think any "upgrade" solution (factory subwoofer enclosure in the older 3) is getting you below 35hz. You will just need a larger woofer. The reason I mention DSP is that they can work some magic for leveraging physics to make the response of smaller woofers extend lower than...

The main thing you are looking for if using the factory enclosure is that the sub will work in 0.75 cuft ported, tuned to 42hz. Or if you plug the port it will work in 0.75 cuft sealed. The SD4, is sealed only and the largest recommended size is 0.5 cuft, given the lower power level this sub...

There's always a way to install something else it's all about how much modification is required, and nothing is going to drop in. As for your existing system, it's an 8" woofer, you simply aren't going to get the lowest octave at reasonable output without a much more complex system IE double...

Awesome, let me know how it works out. I'm looking at some of the cheaper options out there so there's a more diverse range of upgrade paths depending on the needs and desires of each person.

I have some testing to do, I'll see what I can come up with.

By the time you add a step-down converter, (16v to 12v) from a cost and complexity point of view you are probably better off just finding an amp that works with the existing system. If you had an existing amp that you absolutely loved (Like an old McIntosh amp) and wanted to incorporate it into...

I don't believe the RWD has a subwoofer. It comes down to not enough amplifier channels to run one. The reason the RWD has the speakers running that it does (and some that are installed and not hooked up) is that there is only one amp which is integrated into the MCU. The premium system adds...

Based on the information I can see in Tesla's online schematics the new RWD is very similar to the old one (I have a '23). There's definitely room for improvement, replacing the dash and door woofers can make a pretty big difference, and although the install would be different, assuming the...

The kicker yes, the Pioneer may error, or not work as I've seen the voltage above 15.6v in the Tesla.

The reason I went down the path of using the stock premium subwoofer enclosure is that it makes good use of otherwise wasted space. I didn't want to give up any cargo space. Any of the products you mentioned would probably work great, however I'm not sure if any of them would fit in the side...

The reason I went down the path of using the stock premium subwoofer enclosure is that it makes good use of otherwise wasted space. I didn't want to give up any cargo space. Any of the products you mentioned would probably work great, however I'm not sure if any of them would fit in the side...

The stock sub is designed to work perfectly in that enclosure, so as far as sound it's probably good, the Kicker amp is likely better than the Tesla amp so you're probably a bit better than a stock premium system now. The L7T8 is likely just going to give you more output, and subjectively...

Looks good! Print it in ABS/ASA if you can, and make sure you print it in the same orientation it goes in the car, don't print it with the logo down as the arms could break on the layer lines.

Sounds like things are coming together nicely! Pictures are always great. I ended up in the ballpark of 10-11 O'clock on the high pass, and 12 O'clock on the low pass. Going higher on the lowpass sometimes sounded better but sometimes caused more resonance in the car. I opted to sacrifice...

I suspect the volume and tuning of both enclosures would be similar as they seem to use the same subwoofer driver just in an enclosure tailored to the shape of each car. I have some info in another thread: Model 3 factory subwoofer enclosure, volume, port tuning, adapters etc Here's a snippet...

I have an OEM amp on order to verify fitment, it should be here by the end of the month.

https://service.tesla.com/en-US/vehicle-models/Model3 I subscribed a year or so ago and it was free. I assume it still is. Part numbers can be found in the "Parts Catalog" there's also a lot of good info under Schematics as well. Both are under the "Infotainment" section.

@Zangief1977 I'm going to use one channel as a turn on device for the amp, but yes the high level inputs going into the Kicker amp are left and right door woofers.

The schematics and parts are now available on Teslas service site for the new model 3. I've started to compare old vs new and there are some errors in the documentation, however most of the speaker part numbers match the old ones. The upper A-pillar speakers seem to have been moved into the...

The power rating of the stock woofer is 80w + 80W, I was going to target something like that with the Kicker amp. It's rated 150w at 4 ohms, so definitely not ideal I could just run one coil to get an idea of the sub level around that power level.

In a previous post I mentioned ordering the Skar SK-M5001D to match up with the Skar subwoofer. The missing piece is the remote turn on signal that others have been searching for. I have a solution in the works that uses one of the speaker lines (you need L/R door woofer signals to feed the...