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For the last several months I had an intermittent noise/creak when using the wipers. I thought the wiper linkage mounting bolts might need to be tightened so the previous day I took the rear frunk cover off and inspected the 3 bolts. They seemed to be tight so I took a can of Blaster silicone...

Oh and I would like the turn signal indicators near the top of the IC. I would be more likely to notice them if the signal is left on. Sometimes my radio is turned up and the tick sound can't heard.

I read this whole thread as my 2013 S60 with MCU1 and upgraded emmc received a notification of update on and I'm still on non-functional 3G. Yeah if I need net access I use my phone as a hotspot. Most times I don't need it but maybe I'll pony up $200 for the LTE board. But yeah I'm hesitant...

2013 S60 144k. I usually average 275 during the hot summer on 19s and Goodyear Touring

When my 2013 S had intermittent heat I put scanmytesla on it and noticed a thermocouple would read 50 degrees for a few seconds and then jump to 400 degrees for several seconds and back to 50 degrees. Whenever it jumped to 400 degrees the PTC would turn off. So I searched for which...

Installed this update yesterday and car charged up to 90% later that evening. Drove 22 miles to work this morning with no issues. And my SXM is still working.

Installed this update yesterday and car charged up to 90% later that evening. Drove 22 miles to work this morning with no issues.

Thanks, my S has been fine since. I'm at 125,000 miles and out of all warranty now. #crossesfingers

I have solid roof and SXM. Maybe because mine is an older 2013 S. Oh and for those that disappeared my SXM went MIA a couple days ago and I had to power the car down from the service menu to get it back. I haven't installed 48.36.7 yet.

Mine was the upper hinge that was replaced. 2 years later and it's still good as new.

2013 S with 121,000 miles. I'm at 184 rated miles 100% and 165 rated miles at 90%.

Might be an intermittent mixing door motor issue. Mine would not defrost and it turned out the motor was stuck. I removed it, took the motor apart, added lithium grease and it started working again. Then I had no heat in the winter. The thermocouple in the PTC heater would read normal 55...

PTC heater replaced and all is well again. Took about 3 hours start to finish. Biggest road block was being extra safe with removing passenger knee airbag.

Ok so my heat hasn't been working for a couple of days now. SMT shows 415 again for Heater R. I took the trim panels off and pulled the PTC plug (power to board and canbus). It still showed 415. I then closed SMT and restarted it low and behold both Heater sensors disappeared. So I think...

Quick question, I have smt and my heater R is bouncing from 55 F to 415 F which is causing my PTC to shutoff and not warm the cabin. Where is the physical location of Heater R probe. Is it in the heater box or ducting or is it within the PTC itself? Thank you

This morning it was 43 F outside. I turned on preheat and set to 80 degrees and it took 30 minutes to get to 60 degrees. I drive to work and about ten minutes on the highway I notice warm air coming from the vents. Set climate to auto and car quickly gets to 80 degrees. Damn gremlins lol. So...

So I fixed my defroster flap and now I have a new issue. NO HEAT. I ordered the DCDC fuses in case those were bad and almost bought a used PTC. I hooked up scanmytesla and am observing some interesting behavior with the HEATER R sensor and PTC air heater. HEATER R shows 415 degrees F and PTC...

I fixed my defrost actuator. Earlier this year I was using the defrost vents to cool my dashcam. A few months later I noticed my defrost vents stopped blowing air. I fiddled with various vent settings and did some reboots but nothing worked. I figured it was either stuck or the actuator died...

The actuator for the defroster is behind the glove box on LHD cars and inline with the center passenger vent. It's the closest to the firewall and has VG-INLET (ADS) on its side. There are three screws holding it in. A stubby screwdriver is best to remove it.

Tesla has a speed limit mode. I've done this on my S and it works.

Although I have an S it's not the easiest for some people to ingress and egress especially the back seat. On the other hand people would probably enjoy riding in a Tesla especially if they have never experienced one.

I went with goodyear RSA on 19s. The previous set lasted for 50000 miles and I was satisfied with the tires.

Yup, every time I enter a highway I come to a full stop and then mash the pedal. It doesn't matter what the cars behind me think. "Why is this idiot stopping when there is no stop sign." 5-60 can be a useful metric.

Wow 1g for a condenser replacement? I believe mine is leaking on the passenger side and the condenser and o-rings were about 460 before tax. I haven't had it installed yet. I can't imagine paying 500 for labor.

RE: Texas. I also believe you can't buy a car that is currently in the store or service center. It has to be delivered, Or am I missing something?

I did two reboots and mine came back. 2013 with 3G.

They open whenever the cooling system needs more airflow over the condensers. Mine will open if it's hot outside and I precondition the car. The ac compressor will ramp up and fans will ramp up to high speed and louvers will open.

Here is a pic of the fan removed.

Strange, I think the fan spins faster than the clicking noise you hear. I had taken my fan off yesterday because my condenser is leaking and will need to be replaced. You might check for debris. You can either see it from the top by removing the driver side apron under the hood or removing...

You could set updates to advanced and that might push it faster. Or call Tesla and see if they can push you an update.

It appears 2020.12.10 fixes the problem.

This is a known issue with 2020.12.5 update. USB music stops working. Saw something that a new update will fix the issue but I haven't confirmed it as I not updated to 2020.12.5.

Hardware needed to charge at 80 amps is either a Tesla Gen 1 or Gen 2 high powered wall connector (HPWC) and dual charger equiped Model S. The HPWC is made by Tesla but I'm not sure you can get a Gen 2 new, it is listed on Tesla site. They have the Gen 3 HPWC which is limited to 48 amp output.

Dunno if it's a unicorn but it has been called one. 2013 S60 with tech package, air susp, uhfs, rear facing seats, solid body color roof, non-power mirrors, midnight silver.

I have had my S for two years and have 45 mile round-trip to work and 40 amp charging has been fine. In those two years I have put 45k miles on the odometer.

I added an aftermarmrt dashcam on my 2013 S and Open Pilot. Although new would be great I still like the design and ride of the S. And the S can haul a lot of cargo.

There is a video of a Tesla Model S charging at a supercharger that gets damaged when a lightning strike happens nearby. Car wouldn't work afterwards and it was towed to a service center. Here in Oklahoma we have severe thunderstorms and sometimes the power gets knocked out so I usually unplug...

Let me clarify. The genres wouldn't show and you didn't know what each channels label was unless you added it as a favorite. I had to manually tune the channel.

I stopped charging with the app. Thunderstorms are in my area so I had to unplug the charger.

I lost my SiriusXM channels when I updated to ver 9 I believe. Well they are finally back and one of my streaming stations is working again. The last few months I had been streaming TuneIn from my phone for this certain channel.

Mine works fine. Android ver 3.10.4. 2013 S60. 2020.12. I just updated and haven't done a reboot and it worked fine.

My 2013 S changed how voice commands are initiated with the latest updates. Previously I had to hold the voice button down, speak the command, and then let go of the button. It does not work this way with the new update. Trust my I thought my commands were broken until I tried a different...

Is it noted in the manual for the new method? I didn't see anything in the release notes.

Well the old firmware worked with holding the voice button down until the command is done being spoken then let go of voice button. Try that and see if it works.

I'm on 2020.4.1 and I noticed now on my Model S I just tap the voice button once, speak a command and it works. My S used to operate by holding down the voice button and speaking the command then letting go. That method no longer works in my car. The click, speak, click method didn't work on...

The warranty has expired. 60s are only good for 8 years and 125,000 miles I believe. It might be 150,000 now.

Decent range for the mileage. I'm at 96,000 and get 187 for a 100% charge.

I'm on 2020.4.1 and I noticed now on my Model S I just tap the voice button l and it works. If I hold the button down like the old way it doesn't recognize any commands.

I'm on 2020.4.1 and I noticed now on my Model S I just tap the voice button and it works. If I hold the button down and speak like the old way it doesn't recognize any commands.

I'm on 2020.4.1 and I noticed now on my Model S I just tap the voice button l and it works. If I hold the button down like the old way it doesn't recognize any commands.