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4 stalls up and running 4 more to go for the holiday weekend! Much better than childress. Full 250kW V3s

Any suggestions for shops in the Denver/springs area who have done work on Tesla's modifying suspensions / alignments / etc? Can find a general shop but good to know one that already has done MPP camber arms for example

I am building a new house and the builder has an option to finish the garage + run a 50A circuit to a 220V outlet (which they agreed to make a box) for me. Is it worth it to get that setup ahead of time for the HWPC? Or should I just leave it unfinished, have a 3rd party install on a full 60A...

Hah easy to store here in San Diego! Is there a real difference in storing vertically on a rack vs just in top of each other? Obviously the latter is much more weight on the bottom tire but does it matter?

Wonder if that also applies to my racing tires (currently nanking AR1s, used to be RE71Rs). I had just given up storing those over winter and had planned on a new set every spring

Moving from California to Colorado! I'll be switching between winter / summer tires. I know the min recommended storage temp of the P4S's when off the car is 40F. If I simply have them stacked in my garage in colorado, will that be safe enough? uninsulated garage. What do people who live there...

Fontana (Auto Club Speedway) also has decent amount of supercharging access and is much closer to San Diego and a more beginner friendly track. Willow Springs / Streets of Willows / Big Willow it's closeish to do, but not as good of a track. Chuckawalla is the one that tesla owners can't...

A full 16 of them according to this map!

Does seem to not allow the usage of the MPP lower control arm bushings (if you do camber swap which is necessary). Also disallows replacing all 4 rear arms, can only replace 2.

How was the MPP to UP switch? I have thought about it, since UP has more adjustment range and looks like it could be nicer. But really don't want to eat the cost to do the switch

What kind of wheel / offset / spacer combo is needed to reach 295 with a stock fender + camber arms? I actually wish I could swap mine! the MPP ones are nice, but I max out around -2.8 to -3 degrees with them at my ride height and they aren't quite as easy to adjust. But unfortunately i don't...

Got my cobalt XR2 pads in...am I crazy in thinking the rear pad shape is completely wrong for model 3 performance? Here they are side by side

What's the reasoning behind the different wheel widths front and rear? What would need to be done to avoid the spacer?

Definitely interested In your update!

Those are all both. Cobalt quoted me $449 for fronts, $279 for rears. KNS has Carbotechs for $170 (XP10) and $190 (XP12). Endless Model 3 Track Compound EX 99 Rear Brake pads is where I saw the endless pads for $830

I am seeing ex99 at $830, what price are you getting? This compares to $730 for cobalt xr2 and $340/$380 for carbotech xp10/12. Is the premium worth it?

What pads are you going to switch too?

Cobalt clocks in at $726 as well. Of course they say "never street drive on our pads" just like any other track pad manufacturer. Wonder how bad it would be compared to raybestos or carbotech. Do others street drive or just swap your pads for events?

Because I have only been autocross! Started doing and track and immediately noticed issues...hence wanting to upgrade! Heard the same noise complaints about carbotech and so wanted raybestos, but those are impossible to get so...

Did you ever get them for the front or just the rears?

Carbotechs are actually a little cheaper I think than those. I have been running the XT910 all around and they have been fine.

I had wanted the raybestos but yes pretty much unable to purchase. How do the cobalts/endless stack up against the carbotechs?

Unplugged pads are almost twice the price of carbotech (XP12/XP10). Do they actually perform worth the price? Any other pad the consensus for best track pad lately?

@MasterC17 what's the exact raybestos part number you recieved ? KNS isnt being forthcoming about availability and the pads seem to be gone from their website so trying to inquire directly myself. Tesla is not in the raybestos catalog so I assume it's an "others" fit for a certain part number

for the base, not the P3D. I've been asking their sales director over email, no stock

Would love to run the same but cant find any place that will sell them! KNS has no clue.

have you been able to fit a 285 wide tire on 18" or 19" wheels? (With camber arms / adjustable, highly negative camber, don't really care about a little bit of poke.)

I have had the complete opposite, driving with crossclimate+ in blizzards in Tahoe with no difficulties or slips whatsoever (except of course a few times in parking lots where I am purposefully drifting or pushing the car) Honestly sounds like you all are trying to push it too hard and...

Nothing wrong with the material, just covid shortage onsupply

KNS reporting that Raybestos has no ETA on making more model 3apds due to material issues. Might end up with carbotech after all but going to try and hold out!

Wonder how sticky of a tire you would need to not be able to engage ABS with stock brakes. All the way to Hoosiers? 100 TW tire maybe. I could lockup with my 200 TW RE71Rs.

I was able to get about 3 track days at auto club speedway (infield, not roval) on my RE71Rs (265-35-18, ~-2.8 degrees of camber)

Anyone using quick jacks with a lowered car? if so, how lowered and how much clearance do you have? Website says <3.5 inches and I'm worried my lowered car wouldn't have them work

Correct I'm mostly focused on dry racing. I don't care too much about 200 TW vs 100 TW, just not ready for slicks. Anyone else ran the AR-1 to know how long they last? Assuming they are definitely gripper than Federals or RS4s.

So what kind of tires have people been using lately? Track burns through the RE71R for sure, looking at Nanking AR1 Hankook RS4 Federal RS595 RR Yokohoma A052 (faster but burns even quicker) Pilot Sport 4S thoughts on how these rank in performance vs survive a number of laps (when properly...

Interestingthat ST47 is so aggressive yet very low on rotor wear by that chart. any idea why?

How's the rotor wear with ST43?

Anyone else have comments on the carbotechs? Waiting on KNS to get back to me on Raybestos

How low do you have the car? And what's the ET on those wheels to fit that fat! Curious on the tire too.

How much camber are people getting with MPP front arms? With a 1" drop from stock P3D my guys were only able to get -2.7 degrees I am running 18x9.5 ET34, currently a 265 width. Will want to try to move a 275 but alignment shop wasnt sure it would fit. Maybe eventually a new wheel to go to 10.5...

I'm runing RE71Rs, looking at Nanking AR1s in the future (eventually Hoosiers). What's the cost delta between these and Carbotechs?

I have been running XT910 since was mostly autocross focused, but geared the same complaints as you on the XT970 so was looking at carbotech. What's the current recommendation if you arent willing to swap pads between events?

how do they compare performance wise to the carbotechs?

When I installed them we had the shop (with an alignment) go back and forth a few times seeing how reliable it was. Toe was nailed within a few tenths of a degree when we did so.

Heard good things about the carbotech compounds for track use, but which ones are people running? Choosing the Correct Compound – Carbotech Lots of options in the XP family! Any big issues with street driving XP compound? The bedding procedure they recommend looks intense.

that's the great thing about the MPP corkscrew arm, the shims are repeatable enough where you can just align the marks on the tierods and get toe close enough between events to not need a full alignment everytime.

Any suggestions here on how to adjust the tierods with the MPP arms? To return toe to nominal after dropping in shims. not comfortable doing it with just a jack, but don't have access to a lift. Don't think I can really fit in with the car not in the air.

Is a normal jack sufficient to get the car high enough to adjust the tierods? Looking to bring my toe back in line with the @MountainPass camber arms without having to find a place with a lift. Not sure it's safe to do so with just a jack up front though!

Learned that you cannot engage camp mode or sentry mode with a dying 12V Thankfully it didn't fully die (or rather it did, then after sulfur smell came back to life enough to at least get frunk open easily when service showed up) 2018, one of the first P3Ds off the line. 25k miles, upgraded...

Got the "your 12V battery is dying" warnings, and the car actually didn't start a few times (lights flickering/refusing to have the screen go on). Eventually (after waiting a while) everything did power up with only the "12V needs to be replaced soon" warning I have about 65% on the main pack...