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Keep in mind that I'm talking about a '16 S, which has different suspension components (but generally the same overal concept). The torn bushing I found was the rear lower control arm, outer bushing (on the hub).

I just recently bought pucks, i had been using a 6" piece of 2x4 for about 8 years with good success.

I don't know what jack you're using, but if it's any of the 2+ ton low profile jacks, you'll be fine. You'd have to try really, really hard to get the car to fall off.

You can get a pretty good check by taking the wheel off and pushing on them with a crow bar to see if they move. Anything more than a couple millimeters of movement is probably a torn/worn bushing. That said, I couldn't really tell how bad mine were until I took them off, so it's not a 100%...

Ah, that bulletin is global, not just China. The early Fore and Mid lower control arms had a weak casting that can break randomly. Those parts are available from aftermarket providers for like 1/3 the price of a Tesla unit....You should be able to redo the entire front for less than $1k. For...

You could always get a prorated refund if you start seeing negative reviews.

Y'all nailed it. I'm still singing X-Care's praises - I am truly impressed with how quickly and enthusiastically y'all approved my claim and paid out. This single claim nearly fully covered the cost of my 7 year contract (less than 1 year in), and I know that would have many 'lesser' warranty...

Folks, I want to share a testimonial.....X-Care SAVED MY BEHIND this week on my '16 S P90D. I have X-Care covering my vehicle systems and my battery/DU. Last week, I had both a massive failure of my MCU, and my front struts started rattling and moaning like crazy. Two big ticket expenses all...

The bolts you're removing are basically for a strut tower brace bar. The vaaaaaast majority of cars do not have them, and very few actually need them. It's nice to have for a little bit of extra rigidity when you're turning, but not necessary.

Right, but with FWD cars it's worse because the transmission sits off to the side by design. And you feel it more, because the driven wheels are also steering.

You should replace both at the same time, with the same part. Just use whatever is in stock, other than -A.

I had (have) this issue on my 2016 Model S. Truthfully, I was never able to fully remedy it. I swapped tires side to side, replaced all the suspension components....nothing ever 100% fixed it. I did do an alignment and specified that the 'steer ahead' angle and cross-camber / cross-caster be...

They’re not rollers, they are counterweights. And no, it doesn’t fix it. The best way to eliminate that sound is to thoroughly grease the pins.

Does it make the same sound with the tires off the ground?

This may sound crazy, but given all you've done, my money would be on your brake pads rattling because the slides aren't lubricated. Go down that same stretch of road with your foot lightly on the brake (enough to push the pads into the rotors and eliminate any wiggle room) and see if it stops.

Not exactly. If they’re bad, the car will rattle and it may feel less confident in turns because the sway bar isn’t moving in as controlled of a way. But it won’t make your steering feel “loose,” especially at low speeds on flat surfaces where the sway bar isn’t invoked.

Remember, the S weighs 5000 lbs. So, you're buying a heavy duty, low profile tire with a high speed and load rating and foam for "noise reduction." It ain't cheap. When these 4 wear out, you can replace with normal michelins or continentals from a 3rd party tire shop and save some cash.

You'd need spacers to make them fit. Pretty big ones. That, or the ability to make the wheel and strut occupy the same physical space simultaneously. Which I think would win him a Nobel prize too.

shop time is probably looking at it i ndependently. 90 minutes is pretty fair "per side" when you're looking at racking the car, removing the wheel, breaking free the bolts that have probably never been touched, etc. When you're doing both and have some overlap in time, it just buys the...

To each their own. I didn't like it. But I've driven a 1st gen for 8 years, and only had 30 minutes with the Plaid, so my opinion may not be the best to go by.

I don't, but there's a maybe 1 degree of adjustment that you can make via the eccentric bolts. Nothing nuts.

When you lower the car, it naturally creates more negative camber. Lowering it will get you to about -2 I believe. You may be able to get more...say, to -2.5. But not a crazy amount with factory equipment. I'm not aware of anyone who makes camber plates for the 1st gen S, but I haven't...

No. You can't reach the adjuster because it's under the top seal of the strut assembly. Held in by a gasketed cap and a c-clip. In the front, camber is adjusted via the lower control arms...the inner mount has an eccentric bolt that is adjustable. The rear is non-adjustable from the...

Without pretty substantial customization, the only real major-brand aftermarket suspension options for the 1st Gen S are Unplugged Performance and Arnott. Arnott sells plug-and-play OEM replacement struts, but they're not really an "improvement" - same ride style as OEM. Unplugged Performance...

I'm confident there are two scenarios - one is a timer countdown that was set in a recent version of firmware, the other is the car somehow 'figuring' how many fingers are left on the old fuse. I got a warning to replace mine in early november, but couldn't get it in for service until last...

Just a thought - arrange an appointment to see it so they expect you, and ask them to charge it up and warm up the battery before you arrive. All they really need to do is put it in ludicrous plus mode and leave the door cracked (so it doesnt shut off), and it'll warm the battery up while it's...

1st Gen S cannot regen to a stop. Regen fades out below ~6 mph. Once you're stopped, it "holds" just like the new vehicles, though. This is another matter of personal preference, but I find its much smoother the 1st gen way, where regen slowly backs off and allows you to handle the last few...

Takes about the same time to heat up the battery as it does on the new ones, ~20-30 minutes. You don't need to heat it up for normal driving, but if you want peak output, you'll need to heat it up just like you do on every Tesla. I agree with @brainhouston - the 1st Gen S loses a bit of...

I wouldn't worry about it too much. The bottom of the battery pack is VERY thick for this purpose and even has little fins that take most of the damage versus the actual bottom of the pack. My car is lowered an 1.5 inches below factory, and I drive on the "low" setting - I occasionally scrape...

The older fuses have "Fingers" that connect the terminals. As it's heat cycled, some of the fingers break. That is something the car can detect, and then gives you a preventative alert that you're low on fingers.

I would bet it's going to be a "your results may vary" situation, based on the manufacturing tolerances that day and how well centered/aligned your subframe is.

for reference, I am lowered and still using the factory toe arms, within spec.

Just look at the position of the eccentric bolt. if the lobe is in the middle where it's not pushing out to one side, you have room to go.

Neutral toe is a value of 0.0, plain and simple. It's not generally recommended to do true 0.0, because a little bit of toe helps 'center' the car and give it more straight-line stability. Also, when you're accelerating with a AWD car, the power to the front wheels will pull them forward, so...

Oh whoops. Misread. Yes, camber arms do that. I would get underneath the car and take a look at how much adjustability you have in the eccentric bolt on your factory toe arms. If the adjustment is neutral in either direction, then you should have plenty of room to adjust without aftermarket...

I would get them just to eliminate that cross camber in the rear

It’s not like it’s dangerous to drive, it’s just a bizarre alignment that will have your tires wear very oddly. It always amazes me that there are still shops that wont do alignments on Teslas. They are commonplace now, and one of the easier cars to align IMO.

It's total bull. Front camber is easily adjustable via the eccentric inner bolt on the lower control arm. The tools needed are....a wrench. That's it. There's no special tools for doing alignments. Loosen the nut, turn the bolt, tighten the nut. Done. Camber can't be adjusted on the...

Yeah, that's bad enough to ask for your money back. Can't believe the shop is complaining about the rear when they cant even get the front right.

In fact, now that I think about it, the air and coil models use the same control arms with the same ball mount for the ride height sensors. So, it's theoretically possible that you could buy brackets from an OEM air setup and mount the accuair level sensors to them so you don't have to recreate...

I agree with @beatle. Rear camber isn't adjustable from the factory, so the only thing to adjust is toe. your toe settings are wrong, but not something that needs urgent panic-mode adjustment. Just do it when you can. The thing that's strange to me, though, is that they didn't do super well...

I've had their adjustable control arms on my car for about 15k miles, and it solved my inner edge wear issue in the rear. I also have my car lowered with lowering links, but not the N2itive ones. Basically, this kit just gives you adjustability of rear camber and a wider range of adjustment...

Yes, it is that 'easy.' the OEM air system on early cars is pretty simple, and easy to replicate aftermarket. I'd highly recommend a controller with an auto-leveling function, like AccuAir or similar.

Just digging this back up to add some helpful info - the upholstery that covers the upper B pillar is Alcantara, the "beige" color is Pearl White (2911) My local upholstery shop had a hard time matching it, and figured this out after some research.

It's been almost 2 years since I installed mine, so I'd suggest that you double check their manual to be sure....however if memory serves me correctly, SOFTEST setting is all the way COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Air suspension will automatically fill back up when you take the car off of jack mode.

Yep! That solved it 100%, to this day. Grease the pins and the sides of the pads, anything that makes contact. That should do it. If you want to test that this is where your sound is coming from, drive on a bumpy road where you hear this sound….then drive back down the same stretch with light...

Lowering links are incredibly simple. Set it to the same length as factory, adjust to the ride height you want (1mm longer = 6mm lower), then Pop the cups on the mounting balls, and you're done. So, I'm not sure how they wouldn't work.....

You do not need to touch your brakes at all to install these struts. What I said is - you want to bleed off the air line to the strut when you remove it...as in, remove that little brass fitting slowly so you don't just unleash 100 psi from the air bag all at once and send the line flying into...

Even with it set all the way to comfort, you'll have better dampning vs OEM, so the handling will be better. But it'll feel more like the OEM struts the farther you go to the comfort side. I do think that the struts 'wear in' over the first 500 miles or so, and become a bit softer - so if...

Bizarre. I lowered mine sinificantly.....no recalibration, no issues.