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Not sure if this has been discussed and I'm not about to read through 38 pages to look for it. When the car had no cell service available, is it so unable to record drive and supercharge events? Some of mine are missing and I was in such an area when it happened.
 
Not sure if this has been discussed and I'm not about to read through 38 pages to look for it. When the car had no cell service available, is it so unable to record drive and supercharge events? Some of mine are missing and I was in such an area when it happened.
Yeah, it requires a network connection. I'm working on a feature where you can manually add drives and charges in cases just like this.
 
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I searched but couldn't find this answer....sorry if it is a FAQ.

Tessie says my 2022 M3 LR "Original Capacity" is 77.8 based on averages of other similar configs. Why shouldn't I change it to 82 kWh which is what I believe the batter was?

At 77.8 it shows 4.3% degradation but at 82 it is 9.2% degradation. Sure I like the sound of 4.3 better after 15 months and 20,000 miles but I would like it to be as correct as possible.

Thanks in advance for all replies.
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I searched but couldn't find this answer....sorry if it is a FAQ.

Tessie says my 2022 M3 LR "Original Capacity" is 77.8 based on averages of other similar configs. Why shouldn't I change it to 82 kWh which is what I believe the batter was?

At 77.8 it shows 4.3% degradation but at 82 it is 9.2% degradation. Sure I like the sound of 4.3 better after 15 months and 20,000 miles but I would like it to be as correct as possible.

Thanks in advance for all replies.
As you can tell by your screenshots, if you use 82, you will have experienced extreme degradation that also puts you way under everyone else's performance. If you use 77.8, what it calculated, your degradation is in line with everyone else and with Tesla's announced degradation stats.

10% degradation that early on in ownership points towards a battery fault that has a good chance of needing to be replaced.

Is there any particular reason why you think you have a higher battery that's performing poorly?
 
As you can tell by your screenshots, if you use 82, you will have experienced extreme degradation that also puts you way under everyone else's performance. If you use 77.8, what it calculated, your degradation is in line with everyone else and with Tesla's announced degradation stats.

10% degradation that early on in ownership points towards a battery fault that has a good chance of needing to be replaced.

Is there any particular reason why you think you have a higher battery that's performing poorly?

Not at all. I just want to know which number to put in Tessie. 77.8 as it auto populates/recommends or what I believe the battery was 82 kWh.
As I said I just want accurate information not one that makes me feel good and "in line with everyone else"...if it's wrong.
 
As you can tell by your screenshots, if you use 82, you will have experienced extreme degradation that also puts you way under everyone else's performance. If you use 77.8, what it calculated, your degradation is in line with everyone else and with Tesla's announced degradation stats.

10% degradation that early on in ownership points towards a battery fault that has a good chance of needing to be replaced.

Is there any particular reason why you think you have a higher battery that's performing poorly?
Are the Fleet Averages you are calculating based off of your own "Tessie" data? Considering that most users are probably just using the default that Tessie estimates as the original capacity. That would explain why he would fall below the averages when setting the original capacity at 82KwH.
 
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Not at all. I just want to know which number to put in Tessie. 77.8 as it auto populates/recommends or what I believe the battery was 82 kWh.
As I said I just want accurate information not one that makes me feel good and "in line with everyone else"...if it's wrong.
Here's what I have done. Don't know if it's right or not, still trying to figure it out. I exported my data from Tessie, then found the KwH capacity that closest matched the original rated range and input that as the original capacity of the battery, for my 22 LRAWD Model 3 it was 78.8 KwH.
 
Are the Fleet Averages you are calculating based off of your own "Tessie" data? Considering that most users are probably just using the default that Tessie estimates as the original capacity. That would explain why he would fall below the averages when setting the original capacity at 82KwH.

That's is my point...I don't want to use the fleet averages just because it makes it look better. My range hasn't changed in months so I think whatever the degradation is 4.3 or 9.2 it has completely stabilized after 15months. I read a lot that the average Tesla battery degradation is about 10% in the first year....not sure what to trust though.
 
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Are the Fleet Averages you are calculating based off of your own "Tessie" data? Considering that most users are probably just using the default that Tessie estimates as the original capacity. That would explain why he would fall below the averages when setting the original capacity at 82KwH.
It automatically adapts the fleet degradation curve to whatever your setting is. He's falling below because the normal curve for that battery at that point is around 4.5%, not 10%. It's really rare to have 10% degradation at 20K miles.
Not at all. I just want to know which number to put in Tessie. 77.8 as it auto populates/recommends or what I believe the battery was 82 kWh.
As I said I just want accurate information not one that makes me feel good and "in line with everyone else"...if it's wrong.
The only way to know precisely what your car was at 0mi would be to have charged or tracked it then and seen what the car reported. Anything else is technically a guess. But since virtually nobody thinks of doing that (myself included) we get the original capacity from others with the same config. It's super accurate except for when Tesla updates manufacturing processes but doesn't update the firmware labeling (rare, but happens), or if you get a defective battery (rare, but happens.)

Here's an example of where the 77.8 comes from: you and 9,999 of your friends order your Model 3 Performance car at the same time. All 10,000 cars are delivered. You all read your odometer and they each say around ~0 miles. All 10,000 cars are charged. After the charge, across all 10,000 cars on average, the BMS reports that the car has 77.8 kWh capacity. It doesn't matter if the battery pack was marketed as 1 kWh or 1,000 kWh - the only thing we care about is how much energy capacity is measured to exist in the real-world when fresh out of the factory.

I'm not sure if that's helpful or not? Short story is I wouldn't change it unless you know your battery is different. 🙂
 
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It automatically adapts the fleet degradation curve to whatever your setting is. He's falling below because the normal curve for that battery at that point is around 4.5%, not 10%. It's really rare to have 10% degradation at 20K miles.

The only way to know precisely what your car was at 0mi would be to have charged or tracked it then and seen what the car reported. Anything else is technically a guess. But since virtually nobody thinks of doing that (myself included) we get the original capacity from others with the same config. It's super accurate except for when Tesla updates manufacturing processes but doesn't update the firmware labeling (rare, but happens), or if you get a defective battery (rare, but happens.)

Here's an example of where the 77.8 comes from: you and 9,999 of your friends order your Model 3 Performance car at the same time. All 10,000 cars are delivered. You all read your odometer and they each say around ~0 miles. All 10,000 cars are charged. After the charge, across all 10,000 cars on average, the BMS reports that the car has 77.8 kWh capacity. It doesn't matter if the battery pack was marketed as 1 kWh or 1,000 kWh - the only thing we care about is how much energy capacity is measured to exist in the real-world when fresh out of the factory.

I'm not sure if that's helpful or not? Short story is I wouldn't change it unless you know your battery is different.

Yeah that helps. I will leave at default 77.8 and stay blissful with the rest LOL.

I'm under a trial and although it's a better deal with 2 cars don't think I will keep the app. Tempted to just do the $200 lifetime but...who knows what the "lifetime" of the App will be...then what.

Thanks for your help. I learned some stuff in the short trial period...got another week or so.
 
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Yeah thinking about mine...In 15 months I've used a SuperCharger 3 times and rarely ever charge over 90% I'm guessing I'm more 4.3% than 9.2% based on everything I read. Thx for your data point.
I've seen evidence on here, that sounds like the 82KwH number was more of a plug number, than what actual cars were delivered with. You and I seem to have pretty similar cars. My best guess on mine was 78.8. If I were you I would choose the 77.8 over the 82.
 
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I've seen evidence on here, that sounds like the 82KwH number was more of a plug number, than what actual cars were delivered with. You and I seem to have pretty similar cars. My best guess on mine was 78.8. If I were you I would choose the 77.8 over the 82.

Haha...I'm guessing it's like lumber when they say dimensions are "nominal". A 2x4 is really 1-1/2 x 3-1/2. Now we just need Tesla to publish their "nominal" chart. o_O



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Hey, using Tessie now, and noticed that a lot of my drives are... clutter. When I get my car from the garage and put it in the driveway, so we can load it up or load the dog, etc. it counts as a 'drive' even though it's <0.1 miles or even 0.0.

so, in a single day I may have 2, 4, or more. Today was back out. 'park', wife and dog, return, same, so that's 2x.
then I was sealing the driveway, and the wife borrowed my car, but then parked outside, so I had to use the yard to spin around, and unload groceries, so another 'drive'.

While, yes, it's a "Drive" are there any distance filter options, or even on the back end, maybe it's not worth the data if the drive is < 1 mile?

I can't be the only one with a ton of <0.1 mile drives? Sorry, don't like clutter in my data points :p

even at the car wash, while I'm waiting in line, if I put it in park, I now have like a dozen park drives 0.0 miles
0.2 seems to be my shortest 'legit' drive.

thoughts?
 
Hey, using Tessie now, and noticed that a lot of my drives are... clutter. When I get my car from the garage and put it in the driveway, so we can load it up or load the dog, etc. it counts as a 'drive' even though it's <0.1 miles or even 0.0.

so, in a single day I may have 2, 4, or more. Today was back out. 'park', wife and dog, return, same, so that's 2x.
then I was sealing the driveway, and the wife borrowed my car, but then parked outside, so I had to use the yard to spin around, and unload groceries, so another 'drive'.

While, yes, it's a "Drive" are there any distance filter options, or even on the back end, maybe it's not worth the data if the drive is < 1 mile?

I can't be the only one with a ton of <0.1 mile drives? Sorry, don't like clutter in my data points :p

even at the car wash, while I'm waiting in line, if I put it in park, I now have like a dozen park drives 0.0 miles
0.2 seems to be my shortest 'legit' drive.

thoughts?
It's imperative that the service tracks as accurately as humanly and technically possible, so just dropping that data is not an option.

A distance filter is a great idea though. I'll add that and that'll fix this issue for you.