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Proactively replacing RDU/LDU
- Thread starter NV Ray
- Start date
Hello NV Ray, I am really hoping I can save my LDU with this kit. I am going to attempt to install it myself this month. My LDU was replaced with 80k miles on the car and now has 106k so I am hoping if I install this now, if there is any moisture this will stop it now. For $150 and hopefully a Saturday or Sunday maybe 3-5 hours(mostly time to ensure the rtv dries) I can bypass it on the car and save a lot of time by not dropping the ldu at all. Here is the video and the guy who made this “bolt on” coolant bypass kit:
That cost you a bit more than I expected, but had only had a few discussions with people about it. My 2016 sounds fine but I haven't yet checked for coolant evidence, have only had it for less than a month. I assume a 2016 LDU replacement would be similar in cost to your 2013?
Hello Ray, does that tube not even carry coolant? And/or would you recommend installing the bypass and not removing the tube and putting in the plugs with this kit? You think that would prevent air pockets? Thanks for the help.
The flyover tube does carry coolant. My only knowledgeable recommendation is what I paid Tesla $6k recently for - new U version coolant bypass that still has the flyover tube. $6k is about what a 3rd party will charge for rebuilt LDU with their version of coolant delete. Tesla gives 4 year/50k mile warranty while 3rd party a year at best.
So I have an idea.. maybe a bit crazy but hey, at this point why not try.. Let me know what you guys think.
So, there are some videos on YT about making the drain holes on the rotor side of the housing. But seems like you have to take apart the motor first in order to do that. I also learned that QC charge offers “storm drain” on the inverter side to prevent the moisture from building up and damaging the electronics, also done by taking apart the motor. I watched some videos where it’s clear that coolant accumulates on the bottom of inverter housing and just evaporates onto electronics.
Here is an idea - why not carefully make a couple of holes in the bottom of the inverter housing without taking the motor out? Can stick two tubes there so no dust gets in. The effort to get that motor out is massive and can’t be done on your own for most of us. But to get access to the bottom of the motor housing is super easy.
The downside is that leaking coolant will still be impacting the bearings and the stator, which could lead to an eventual failure due to rust. But I think the inverter damage is the main reason of the LDU fails.
I got 2014 85 with 150k on the original LDU motor and the seal is definitely leaking (based on the condition of speed sensor). No noise or any issues while driving so far.
So, there are some videos on YT about making the drain holes on the rotor side of the housing. But seems like you have to take apart the motor first in order to do that. I also learned that QC charge offers “storm drain” on the inverter side to prevent the moisture from building up and damaging the electronics, also done by taking apart the motor. I watched some videos where it’s clear that coolant accumulates on the bottom of inverter housing and just evaporates onto electronics.
Here is an idea - why not carefully make a couple of holes in the bottom of the inverter housing without taking the motor out? Can stick two tubes there so no dust gets in. The effort to get that motor out is massive and can’t be done on your own for most of us. But to get access to the bottom of the motor housing is super easy.
The downside is that leaking coolant will still be impacting the bearings and the stator, which could lead to an eventual failure due to rust. But I think the inverter damage is the main reason of the LDU fails.
I got 2014 85 with 150k on the original LDU motor and the seal is definitely leaking (based on the condition of speed sensor). No noise or any issues while driving so far.
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