Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
And this is with normal tire? So with a flat tire, it will be ~80mm
Yes, that photo was taken with the tire fully inflated.

The rear control arm under the shock mount appears to have adequate clearance as this photo shows.

IMG_2859.JPG



I would still not depend on the small surface area of the top of the jack not slipping off as the car moves when the jack is raised.

The only guaranteed method of safe jacking is apparently with a secure post that fits and locks into the top pf the jack's lifting surface. I don't know about the particular jack that you quoted, because I am not able to see if a flat surface can be exposed. If there ia a rivet holding as swiveling saddle, it can be drilled out to take the post on an adapter such as mine. Hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: melvladimir
After jacking up an M3...does anyone know the safe places to put the jack stands ?
If you jack the car up by either of the front or rear control arms, my universal adapter fill allow secure placement of either aluminum or steel jack stands in the official Tesla jacking sockets. Unlike some of the awkward multi-bolt clamp on adapters that I've seen offered by others, mine only requires drilling a centered 5/16 inch hole about one inch deep into the top. Both the aluminum and the malleable iron tops are easy to drill into.

These photos show different jack stands with the adapters in use on my Mod 3.

IMG_2813.JPG




IMG_2814.JPG


IMG_2853.JPG



IMG_2854.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bouba
An important word of caution when using scissors jacks.

If you go through the reviews on scissors jacks, with whatever model the review is about, there is quite a number with accompanying photos showing how the jack is bent and deformed.

Basically, it's either due to incorrect placement or the car slipping off the top of the jack as the car is lifted. The car will move on account of basic vector physics.

So it is important that the top of the jack be secured to the car so the jack will bend on it's bottom and top pivoting rivets to compensate .

That is why some secure jacking adapter is a necessity and not just something nice to have and use.
 
Man, this car is HARD to jack up - using that red Torin scissors jack (with Mike's adapter) - but I don't imagine any other scissors jack would be much easier. Does make me wish it had a hex drive, so could use a rachet wrench (instead of that awkward hinged handle with a hook on the end). MYLR is only half again as heavy as my Outback, but it sure seems a whole lot harder.
 
The jack with it's extended base is very stable and raises high enough on the front socket to lift not only the front wheel of the ground, but also the rear wheel. Basically, the assembly could be used to rotate tires from the front to back and vise versa.
I thought I'd heard it wasn't a good idea to jack the car so high that both wheels (on one side) came off the ground - on account of torsional forces on the car body cracking the glass roof. A non-issue ?

I hope it's ok, because as difficult as the scissors jack is, I'd love to be able to rotate using my platform jack and nothing else. Assuming front-back (non-crossed) rotation is ok.
 
Man, this car is HARD to jack up - using that red Torin scissors jack (with Mike's adapter) - but I don't imagine any other scissors jack would be much easier. Does make me wish it had a hex drive, so could use a rachet wrench (instead of that awkward hinged handle with a hook on the end). MYLR is only half again as heavy as my Outback, but it sure seems a whole lot harder.

Not hard, if you get this adapter.



41KupB8XaIL._AC_.jpg



I've used it with my old Craftsman 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench and this lug wrench socket that will also work with the wheel lug nuts,


51cjuY2H3nL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I thought I'd heard it wasn't a good idea to jack the car so high that both wheels (on one side) came off the ground - on account of torsional forces on the car body cracking the glass roof. A non-issue ?

I hope it's ok, because as difficult as the scissors jack is, I'd love to be able to rotate using my platform jack and nothing else. Assuming front-back (non-crossed) rotation is ok.

I don't know about cracking the roof. I have the basic lowest level Mod 3.
 
I've been hunting around for a nice jack for the Model 3. I don't plan on carrying a spare (yet) but I do have a nice tire repair kit and I have repaired many tires. It's not always so easy to repair a tire on the car. Especially if it's 5F out. I want the ability to rotate the wheel or remove it to ease repair.

I went through several Amazon returns. Most Scissors Jack are absolute Chinese crap unless you buy some OEM one for another vehicle. I had almost settled on an electric hydraulic jack that worked great until I realized that it would be to tall if I had a flat.

I found this on eBay. It's an old OEM Porsche Jack. There are tons of them on eBay, this one was mint.
It appears all the Porsches that used this vintage jack are around 3000 lbs. Model 3 is 4000 lbs.
I think because they are so light, strong and compact there is a market for them. There are probably 50 on ebay.

It is the only aluminum scissor jack I could find.

It is rated for 1000 Kg (2200 lbs).
It weighs nothing (40 oz !!), it is very well made.
It will jack from ~2.5" to ~10.5"
You can probably use it fine on the body, I plan to only jack under the lower control arm (much easier, safer and only needs 2 inches of lift).
There is a nub on top that I plan to remove. If you wanted it for the body you could trim that nub to fit exactly.
Not sure how much lift you need on the body (part of the reason I hate jacking up from the body).
But you could raise the jack on something to bring it flush before jacking. The jack has 8" of throw (not a lot).

When sizing a jack you want it to go from flat tire on ground to fixed tire off ground.

I ordered an extension crank from amazon. It probably weighs more than the jack.

This image is with it lifting the Model 3 front wheel.

32226362638_6fbeea3490_b_d.jpg


I might be able to use this foam insert as is, in the lower trunk to keep it in place. (iPhone 6s reference, not a plus)

46097709341_feba03c7bf_b_d.jpg
Modern Spare provide a decent scissor and ratchet wrench with their spare wheels.
Perhaps they would sell them without the wheel. I believe that whilst they lift high enough, their profile might not be low enough if the tyre is profoundly flat. A member here, in a similar thread, suggested rolling the flat onto a 2" piece of plank say 10"x10" to raise the flat and thereby accommodate the jack.
However, the concerns raised here are for lift height and ease of use not for sufficiently low profile under the jacking points ( plus puck or similar).
 
I. too, purchased one of those Chinese made jacks with the yellow section ratchet wrench and returned it. The Modern Spare jack appears to use the same type of wrench.

Over the past 50 years, I have examined and used all sorts of OEM and aftermarket jacks including bumper jacks and even hydraulic scissors jacks no longer available.

I have a heavy duty scissors jack that came with my Lexus RX350. It appears very well made and adequate for the job. The Torin Big Red jack weighs over 8 pounds and from my experience as a retired aerospace structural production mechanical engineer, I am pleasantly surprised on how good the quality and function of the jack is. It is sturdier than the Lexus RX350 jack.
If you really want a 3 pound jack, I prefer the aluminum Audi A6 jack, one of which I modified for a friend, before I even owned a Tesla. Here are photos of th
lifting point.jpg
at jack.

left label side.jpg

left handle side.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: rotarypower101
Yes, that photo was taken with the tire fully inflated.

The rear control arm under the shock mount appears to have adequate clearance as this photo shows.

View attachment 966614


I would still not depend on the small surface area of the top of the jack not slipping off as the car moves when the jack is raised.

The only guaranteed method of safe jacking is apparently with a secure post that fits and locks into the top pf the jack's lifting surface. I don't know about the particular jack that you quoted, because I am not able to see if a flat surface can be exposed. If there ia a rivet holding as swiveling saddle, it can be drilled out to take the post on an adapter such as mine. Hope this helps.
That’s exactly how I use to jack my model 3.

By lifting at the suspension you only have to lift 2” or so instead of 10” or more on the body. Less height the better.

I was able to jack my 3 & X front and back with the Porsche jack. But on the S I have to use the body jack points on the rear.
 
Hate to rack up the bill, but one service call to Tesla will really cost a lot more than what you are spending.

The lug nuts are torqued to 129 ft. lbs. You might want to get a ratcheting breaker bar like this from Harbor Freight.


image_25950.jpg


I recommend Harbor Freight and not Amazon, because these have lifetime warranties. If you break it, all you'd do is return it to Harbor Freight (no receipt needed), and they'd give you a new one.

This thong is so much better and more usable than most all lug nut wrenches when used with the no mar lug nut socket. It will also work perfectly with the scrssiors jack adapter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RustyShacklefo
It's called a breaker bar on account of it's intended function, not how it's made or its component parts.

To be used as a breaker bar, the ratchet in this case must be strong enough to take the torques applied to it when used to break loose tightened bolts.

A standard ratchet wrench, not intended for use as a breaker bar, would eventually fail when overtorqued as with with a cheater pipe extending the lever arm to 18 inches as the breaker bar noted in my prior post.