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Winter Driving Experiences

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I'm surprised as I directly asked Tesla and they said there's no plan to sell the TPMS tool contrary to the Roadster.

PatP, it was expressed to me as an expectation (not a commitment) less than a month ago, and is on my list of follow up points with Tesla. (I have been asking about this for many months now and hope to have it resolved by the time that I switch to summer tires.)
 
> They said the same thing about the Roadster tool at first, but it's available now. [Doug_S]

But the Roadster delivers ACTIVE harassment re the TPMS: Random Audio assaults, Screen totally blocked by error message that *must* be manually cleared. Truly evil in intent & execution.

OTOH, Model S merely posts a TPMS error message below the speedometer that does not interfere with anything else. NO audio. PASSIVE. So a few inches of black electrical tape can solve this whole issue. I'd call that 'progress'!
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It should be, but these guys are in California where two sets of wheels are as exotic as a 100% chromed exterior. What they need is to have several design centres: one in Europe, one in Canada (not Vancouver though), one in Texas. That way they get the input they need rather than having to find out that California != world after the cars are in production.

Yes, but they have been learning. A couple of years ago they were shipping Roadsters up here with essentially water in the windshield washers. I took one look at what it squirted on my windshield and replaced it right away, even though it was the middle of summer. I knew what was going to happen if I didn't - I would forget and it would turn into a block of ice. My Ranger told me he had to unplug a lot of Roadsters whose owners hadn't thought of that!

Certainly Tesla has learned a lot since then. My Model S came with usable windshield washer fluid. They claimed to have done significant winter testing, and I have no reason to doubt them. But clearly they didn't expose the car to a wide enough variety of conditions. The fact is, as soon as Ottawa and Montreal drivers got their cars home they started running into several issues. The problems are all solvable, but they shouldn't have been a surprise.

Clearly they should be testing their cars HERE! We get pretty much every type of weather imaginable. I'll volunteer to beta test the Model X. :tongue:
 
Clearly they should be testing their cars HERE! We get pretty much every type of weather imaginable.

That's why they need designers that live in those locations. Then they will get the input needed while the design is still on paper. These days it's easy to have a few designers in many locations and still have them work together.
 
Tesla seems to be taking their time coming up with important features like the charge timer and pack heating while plugged in - basic stuff the Roadster has. This could only mean they're working on something elegant and sophisticated. I'm guessing they'll let you program in your TOU rates, your usual departure times, etc., and optimize everything automatically. (Heck maybe they'll even do something like the Nest thermostat, who knows?)

I own a Nest thermostat, does that mean I am more incline to buy a TMS ;-)
 
I think the reason TM made the default for the battery during charging is to "keep itself warm" is that, without a pre-set departure time, it's possible the driver will arrive at any time and set off. I.e., drive with a cold battery, which is the least desirable outcome. That same issue is why max power goes into battery heating up front when starting cold-soaked. Once "the app" is available, the battery heating can be limited to the last half hour or so before departure (on shore power, thus helping maximize available range.)
 
> My messages have an audible beep-beep-beep as well. [Brianman]

I was only referring to TPMS msgs (corrected my post). When I start there may be the beep-beep-beep(?), then ~15 sec later I get the no-seat-belt muted chimes which I love, then no more sounds. No loud random assaults like in the Roadster. Just the constant blinking of the TPMS msg under the speedo. But I've not even driven 500 miles yet. And after closing the gate I do attach seat belt.
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I'd like to come back on the excessive loss of charge of the battery in the cold (reported to be 12 - 31 miles per day vs 1% or 3 miles per day as per spec)

I have been seeing a loss of 50 miles in a 24 h period while being on call. The car war parked outisde, no outlet available. Temperatures dropped to the 20s overnight. The following is a repost from the TM General forum.

Ok, here is some real world experience from three weeks of daily driving my P85 in the DC area.

- You will use more energy on cold days. Cabin heat and battery pack heating use the most. Temperatures here have been in the 20s at night and 30-40F during the day. With that my average consumption has been 400 WH/mile. Not too bad but you will not get your rated mileage. When there is snow on the road this will get even worse. (Real energy usage is probably a lot higher. This reported number from the trip logs might use only the energy USED, not what you actually put in (and pay for...) the battery

- The battery pack DOES care about its temperature and is actively controlled. When it gets cold it will heat the pack and that uses energy. This may not be a problem if you are plugged in but needs to be taken into account when you leave your car in the cold unplugged (airport, work, etc.). When I left my car outside for 24h with temperatures ranging from low 40s to 20s I had 50 (rated) miles less the next morning. (That is with the newest 4.1 firmware and sleep mode enabled.) It still works for me because my commute is 80 miles but keep this number in mind when choosing your battery pack! As soon as battery heating is involved you will not be even close to the published 1% LOC per day but much greater.

- If you live in a cold climate go for the largest battery even if that means skipping options. In my experience so far I think the 40kwh battery is not going to be a viable option unless you can plug in your car whenever it is parked, ALL THE TIME.

------Chris DC | JANUARY 12, 2013
Well it is clear that loosing a lot of charge overnight in cold temperatures when the car is not plugged in is not an isolated event. I am sure Tesla has reasons why they keep the battery pack temperature more controlled than other manufacturers (i.e. Nissan Leaf). My guess is that they want to ensure energy deliverance even at cold temperatures. LiOn batteries do not work well when cold.

The problem I am having with this is that this has not been communicated by TM with full disclosure. The only official statement I can find is a 1% LOC per day (manual) and that the car can be left for months not plugged in and will not suffer damage (plug it in blog).

Although I agree that the Model S should be plugged in when parked we all have to realize that in real world conditions this is not always possible. When you have your car you will realize that for example not all airport parking will have working outlets available or (in my case) parking garages usually do not have accessible outlets either. Loosing 50 miles in a day when I am on a 24h shift is a lot in my opinion.

I am predicting some upset owners of the 40khw model S once that gets delivered. They WILL leave their car unplugged at times and will not be able do drive it the next day, at least in the winter. TM needs to be more open about this so people can have realistic expectations what the Model S can and cannot do.
 
> Originally Posted by pbrulott
I'd like to come back on the excessive loss of charge of the battery in the cold (reported to be 12 - 31 miles per day vs 1% or 3 miles per day as per spec)

> I have been seeing a loss of 50 miles in a 24 h period while being on call. The car war parked outisde, no outlet available. Temperatures dropped to the 20s overnight. [Chris]

In cold below 10*F at night or even less, always plugged in: I've noticed big drops like from 'fully charged' ~218 miles next morning appearing as 159 miles as I get into the car. And charging 'stopped' some time ago. Why did it never resume charging?? Since there is no TOP OFF button as on the Roadster, the only thing I can think of to do to get it charging is to switch from STANDARD to RANGE. Doing this indeed began recharging process at the usual 12A 117v. Screen estimated charge time to be 12+ hours of course. Then I switched back to STANDARD. Came back within 2 hours and it now showed ~220 miles and charging had finished I believe. Point being that the MILES you see as you first wake up the car _could be_ a FALSE READING.

If you come upon a surprisingly low reading, test this by taking a drive of sufficient length to get all systems operational and see if the estimate does not spring back to what you would have expected.
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@wycolo Please note my car was not plugged in. The indicated range appeared to be correct and did not "recover" with driving or pack heating. I assume your pack was at least heated since yours was plugged in.

Corrected my last post with conditional. One morning a few weeks ago the dash showed -21*F and I doubt if it even hit zero that night. Be neat if it had a batt temp guage. But I always have at least partial regen, so that must mean the batt is happy. I always keep it plugged in; one never knows . . .
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- The battery pack DOES care about its temperature and is actively controlled. When it gets cold it will heat the pack and that uses energy. This may not be a problem if you are plugged in but needs to be taken into account when you leave your car in the cold unplugged (airport, work, etc.). When I left my car outside for 24h with temperatures ranging from low 40s to 20s I had 50 (rated) miles less the next morning. (That is with the newest 4.1 firmware and sleep mode enabled.) It still works for me because my commute is 80 miles but keep this number in mind when choosing your battery pack! As soon as battery heating is involved you will not be even close to the published 1% LOC per day but much greater.

....

Although I agree that the Model S should be plugged in when parked we all have to realize that in real world conditions this is not always possible. When you have your car you will realize that for example not all airport parking will have working outlets available or (in my case) parking garages usually do not have accessible outlets either. Loosing 50 miles in a day when I am on a 24h shift is a lot in my opinion.

I am predicting some upset owners of the 40khw model S once that gets delivered. They WILL leave their car unplugged at times and will not be able do drive it the next day, at least in the winter. TM needs to be more open about this so people can have realistic expectations what the Model S can and cannot do.

I can't believe this is a normal behavior. It's been reported that cold doesn't arm the battery except if below -30C (that's more cold than cold). It would be a complete harakiri from TM to let the car behave like this and it should not require the app not to waste some precious juice... (I fully understand the Rate miles story, when cold w/o full regen the rated miles could be misrepresented for a little while after riding the car from a cold pack)

Note: I need to take my decision on signing my paper in 2 days max, and the above is one of the 2 reason why I'm sitting on it since end of December. Still complete silence from TM
 
Note: I need to take my decision on signing my paper in 2 days max, and the above is one of the 2 reason why I'm sitting on it since end of December. Still complete silence from TM


Don't hold your breath. We haven't heard from Tesla on any of these problems related to real world cold weather conditions.

Either take the plunge or spend $2500 more in a few months if they do clarify.

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$2500 plus. On high performance models for instance 21 inch wheels will not longer be a no charge upgrade for instance

Well, there's no high performance model. There is a performance model, however. Anyone who is concerned about weather driving conditions is probably getting 19 inch rims and if they want 21 inch rims as well can probably afford the costs. Just sayin.... :)

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